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Any tips to make a muzzleloader “sure-fire”

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There is always that possibility of a misfire.
What things can be done to make sure the shot goes off?

I remember special percussion nipples used to be available that used centrefire primers because allegedly they throw a hotter flame.
 
Make sure the gun is well maintained, ie. cleaned properly, inspect the nipple (if using a cap lock) for "mushrooming" so you have a good cap fit. Pay extra attention to the flash channel. Shoot a little air through it to get any gunk out and let sit muzzle down to make sure no water or solvents leach into your breach. Those few minor details go a long way in making your gun reliable.
 
Before hunting large game, or shooting a match I've tried the following;
1. Slap the buttstock after dropping powder, it settles it in the breach/drum.
2. Pull the nipple, trickle powder inside the drum/bolster. I fill it full, crushing the powder as I install the nipple.
3. At matches is very common to snap caps, then pour a charge of powder down, then keeping it pointed up and safe, cap again and fire. I've never seen one fail to fire after this.
4. Be sure and wipe the oil from the bore before snapping caps and loading. The oil makes it very hard to fire... trust me, I know.

Ps, I've SEEN this work. Use magnum caps. I loaded a new to me 20 bore, after snapping caps and slapping the stock it failed to fire. I asked the guy next to me if he had a worm to pull the load, he handed me a tin of magnum caps. Both barrels went off first attempt with magnum caps. I ordered 2500 magnum caps that evening.
 
You need to get a feel for how damp your wiping patches should be when wiping between shots. Too damp and you push. Moisture and fouling into the flash channel. To dry and you push fouling down the bore without the patch soaking it up and it ends up in the flash channel.

If you are using a wet lube, you can shoot without wiping. The wt lube wipes the fouling as you load.

Start of the day hunting or at the range put an automotive vacuum sealer over the nipple and then pour small denatured alcohol down the bore and let it set a bit. You can also give it a shot of carb cleaner. When you remove the sealer from the nipple run a patch vigorously all the way up and down the barrel. That will blow the alcohol or carb cleaner out and force it to evaporate quickly.
 
I never use any oil on my rifles, ever. After I clean it i dry it well and run a patch with bear grease on it. The next day I run another through it and make sure I can hear ir breathing through the nipple or flash hole.
When I get ready to hunt, I run a couple of dry patches, making sure I can hear or breath. I have never had it not go off.
 
I can’t remember my last misfire or slow fire.
Before loading make sure the barrel and breach area are free of any oil. I drop powder down the barrel and rap the side of the gun a couple of times to settle the powder. Then load as usual.
If flintlock (assuming you’re going hunting) install a good, sharp flint. Make sure the frizzen is clean and free of oil. Pick the vent and prime before hunting.
I almost always load my rifle the night before a hunt. I don’t snap caps to clear the channel. Just keep the rifle clean and free of oil.
I load my flintlocks the night before as well.
I’ve never had an issue.
 
I thought carburetor cleaner would be pretty hard on the lock and barrel finish. I've seen it melt plastic containers completely around the carburetor in the repair shop.
I use it only on the inside of the barrel. Haven’t seen any problems. But mostly I use denatured alcohol.
 
A lot of good info here. I will just add one thing that's been mentioned. When hunting I always pull the nipple and put some 4f powder in the flash channel. Then I make sure that the cap still has the charge intact. I've found numerous caps where the charge has dislodged and is a dud. Most of those were Remington. Also check the hammer face for caps that are stuck in the recess. I've pulled as many as 3 spent caps out of there.
 
Many thanks for all the advice. My concern is when competing in a match with a percussion shotgun or rifle and fouling causes a misfire that is sometimes time consuming to resolve
 
If you figure it out let us know. So far what's helped for my flintlock.
Tuned and maintained lock. Balanced springs, polished frizzen face, proper touch hole positioning
Real black powder
Prime with 3f instead of 4f in humid weather
Change out the prime often in wet weather (like every hour in rainy weather)
At the range, pick the flash hole after shooting
Wipe the pan clean after shooting
Wipe the frizzen clean after shooting
Maintain the flint, keep it clean and knap when it's not throwing as many sparks
 
I'm pretty new to the rock lock game. Please share your info with us.
I made a leather wrap, goes around gun, covers the whole lock. Held together with a quick release leather lacing.
Not my idea, saw many descriptions from old timers. Made it back in 70s, no longer have cause i no longer inclined to go out in bad weather. So no pictures but with the internet you can find.
I can pull it off in a micro second before pulling trigger. Works great in the rain.
Everything Wonk said. I also liberally oil the whole lock, inside and out, except for pan and frizzen. Lots of oil/grease on outer lock spring so it flings open with little pressure.
 

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