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.58 Springfield

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Hi all,
I own a Euroarms 1861 Springfield and I am looking for a complete reproduction lock. The sear broke on the rifle and cannot find a parts supply as Euroarms became a thing of the past. I bought a sear and a tumbler from Dixie and refitted them in the rifle. It works, but has a heavy trigger pull. So far all I have found are original locks but, they are too pricey. As an option, would someone explain how lighten the trigger pull?
Thanks in advance.
 
You shouldn't need an entire lock but yours will need a little more work. Actually in buying another one you may end up with another lock that needs work too. First check the depth of engagement of the sear nose in the full cock notch. If it's too deep it will need a shim to limit the depth. Next check the angle and smoothness of the notch and the sear nose too. Another thing, remove the mainspring, reinstall the lock, lower the hammer and check the trigger pull. If, for example, it takes 4 pounds to overcome the pressure of the sear spring alone you will never be able to reduce the trigger pull below 4 pounds and trying to do so by working on the tumbler and sear may cause an unsafe condition.

You say the sear broke, what caused that? If it was the nose of the sear it's possible it was hitting the half cock notch on the tumbler which often happens with Italian locks. If that's so you may not have needed a new tumbler but just some work on the existing one. No matter, you have replaced both and the lock is working but it does need tuning. If you don't feel comfortable doing the work you might want to seek out someone knowledgeable to help and if you really want to learn how to repair and tune locks go for it. You can always go back to Dixie for replacement parts again.
 
You shouldn't need an entire lock but yours will need a little more work. Actually in buying another one you may end up with another lock that needs work too. First check the depth of engagement of the sear nose in the full cock notch. If it's too deep it will need a shim to limit the depth. Next check the angle and smoothness of the notch and the sear nose too. Another thing, remove the mainspring, reinstall the lock, lower the hammer and check the trigger pull. If, for example, it takes 4 pounds to overcome the pressure of the sear spring alone you will never be able to reduce the trigger pull below 4 pounds and trying to do so by working on the tumbler and sear may cause an unsafe condition.

You say the sear broke, what caused that? If it was the nose of the sear it's possible it was hitting the half cock notch on the tumbler which often happens with Italian locks. If that's so you may not have needed a new tumbler but just some work on the existing one. No matter, you have replaced both and the lock is working but it does need tuning. If you don't feel comfortable doing the work you might want to seek out someone knowledgeable to help and if you really want to learn how to repair and tune locks go for it. You can always go back to Dixie for replacement parts again.
Thanks for the advice. I am in a Civil War honor guard with the SVR, Sons of Union Veterans. Our safty officer pushed on it at half cock and chipped off the sear, (I thanked him). How would you put a shim in?
 
If your safety officer pushed forward on the hammer that shouldn't have broken anything but that isn't the way to check a half cock. It should be checked by a pull on the trigger and it's possible to pull hard enough top break the sear or the tumbler. The gun should be placed in the half cock position and then suspended by a finger on the trigger muzzle down. The half cock should support the weight of the entire gun. Then there's the chance a part may have been over hardened making it brittle.

I realize you were looking for factory replacement parts which is understandable. The theory is that they will drop in without work and be fine but it doesn't always work out like that. It's possible that Euroarms parts may have needed as much work as the ones you have from Dixie. You should be able to keep that lock running with aftermarket parts forever but it will take some fitting. The only Springfield locks I've ever seen that truly had interchangeable parts were originals using original parts or parts by the late Rich Cross.
 
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