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JB Weld on oversized wood holes....??

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LeeC.

32 Cal
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Joined
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Location
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I'm building a kibler colonial, coming along very well. I did run into an issue with butt plate fitment. The supplied screws had terrible threads...and I caught hell fitting it perfectly. Ended up snapping a screw, and decided to plug it, after drilling out left over screw shank in stock. Ended up with a larger hole, which I plugged with tooth picks and epoxy. That didn't work and wallowed out hole. Thought to use JB weld, but ended up drilling out hole to 7/16" and epoxing a like sized section of dowel. Curing now.

What's the opinion of this vs JB weld?
My impression is the JB would be tough to drill and begin threading a coarse threaded wood screw with out tapping first??

Btw, the bad screw is not kiblers fault at all. These things happen and I don't expect perfection on every little detail in life. His kits are excellent and very well made and designed. Can't wait to build another really.
 
Use a hardwood dowel that is the size of the hole. Glue it with Tightbond III, then carefully file and sand flush. Mark the spot for your screw hole. Double check it. And drill carefully. Put beeswax or paraffin on the threads of your wood screws. They'll go in better. Seems like some folks are quick to go to JB Weld as a quick fix, when there are better solutions. The thing about any quick fix, is that it looks like a quick fix... and acts like one too.
 
Drill out the holes. Install a hardwood dowel. Re-drill the pilot hole. It happens. Getting the pilot dead center and angled perfect is not easy.

I use transfer punches, then go undersized. Then the minor diameter, then the relief for the smooth part of the screw. Put wax or soap on the screw to help it go in easy and not bugar the slots.

These are also useful to center the pilot hole:
Vix-Bit Self-Centering Drill Bits - Lee Valley Tools Shop around, this is just and example.

I would not use any kind of glue to reform the threads. If the release agent fails you have a bigger problem. Also the bottom of the hole is blocked. You will not be able to to tighten the screw or align the slot.
 
LeeC. said:
I'm building a kibler colonial, coming along very well. I did run into an issue with butt plate fitment. The supplied screws had terrible threads...and I caught hell fitting it perfectly. Ended up snapping a screw, and decided to plug it, after drilling out left over screw shank in stock. Ended up with a larger hole, which I plugged with tooth picks and epoxy. That didn't work and wallowed out hole. Thought to use JB weld, but ended up drilling out hole to 7/16" and epoxing a like sized section of dowel. Curing now.

What's the opinion of this vs JB weld?
My impression is the JB would be tough to drill and begin threading a coarse threaded wood screw with out tapping first??

Btw, the bad screw is not kiblers fault at all. These things happen and I don't expect perfection on every little detail in life. His kits are excellent and very well made and designed. Can't wait to build another really.
Click to expand...
JB weld has no value in gun work, it will lead to poor workmanship and shoddy results.
 
LeeC. said:
I'm building a kibler colonial, coming along very well. I did run into an issue with butt plate fitment. The supplied screws had terrible threads...and I caught hell fitting it perfectly. Ended up snapping a screw, and decided to plug it, after drilling out left over screw shank in stock. Ended up with a larger hole, which I plugged with tooth picks and epoxy. That didn't work and wallowed out hole. Thought to use JB weld, but ended up drilling out hole to 7/16" and epoxing a like sized section of dowel. Curing now.

What's the opinion of this vs JB weld?
My impression is the JB would be tough to drill and begin threading a coarse threaded wood screw with out tapping first??

Btw, the bad screw is not kiblers fault at all. These things happen and I don't expect perfection on every little detail in life. His kits are excellent and very well made and designed. Can't wait to build another really.
Click to expand...
JB weld is a good product, but I would not use it for your issue. As others have said: Use a wood dowel, a good wood glue with beeswax on the screw.
Larry
 
Fortunately, your issue is in the very BEST place to have such an issue, where a cover-up won't show. If you want to be double-sure the plug will hold, cut some horizontal grooves in both the dowel AND the base wood.

Another place where it makes some sense to provide reinforcement that doesn't show, is under the toe plate. More often than not, there's a fair amount of grain runout in that little area, particularly on guns with crescent butt plates. Just put a small # 2 or # 4 screw through there long enough to run out under the butt and toe plates, and then file both ends flush. Alternatively, you can use 1/16" (or any) wire, or cut a slot in the toe and glue in a wooden spline with grain running more vertically to reinforce the vulnerable area.

One of many lessons I've had to learn the hard way.
 
Last edited:
Thank you all for quick responses.
I'm on right trail again....
Going to wait for this repair to set up and cure...I re drilled hole...set a 7/16" hardwood dowel in a secured with epoxy.
I didn't think to use Tite-Bond glue tho...setting right there on shelf too!!

I'll use a spring loaded centering punch...start with a 1/16 bit...work up...wax screws...and see what happens.

Funny...I was a carpenter for near 30 years.
Spend about 15 doing interior trim and woodwork...I should really know better!!!


Thanks again fellas!
 
LeeC. said:
Thank you all for quick responses.
I'm on right trail again....
Going to wait for this repair to set up and cure...I re drilled hole...set a 7/16" hardwood dowel in a secured with epoxy.
I didn't think to use Tite-Bond glue tho...setting right there on shelf too!!

I'll use a spring loaded centering punch...start with a 1/16 bit...work up...wax screws...and see what happens.

Funny...I was a carpenter for near 30 years.
Spend about 15 doing interior trim and woodwork...I should really know better!!!


Thanks again fellas!
Click to expand...
don't know your age, but I am finding that with my advancing age, i forget or have forgotten many of the finer methods that were once just muscle memory.
 
LeeC. said:
Thank you all for quick responses.
I'm on right trail again....
Going to wait for this repair to set up and cure...I re drilled hole...set a 7/16" hardwood dowel in a secured with epoxy.
I didn't think to use Tite-Bond glue tho...setting right there on shelf too!!

I'll use a spring loaded centering punch...start with a 1/16 bit...work up...wax screws...and see what happens.

Funny...I was a carpenter for near 30 years.
Spend about 15 doing interior trim and woodwork...I should really know better!!!


Thanks again fellas!
Click to expand...
"
Funny...I was a carpenter for near 30 years.
Spend about 15 doing interior trim and woodwork...I should really know better!!!" -- This comment is funny -- :doh: :ghostly:
 
I know that the hate mail will begin but........... another repair that I have used is to install a thread insert made of brass ( these are made for installing in furniture where the screw is removed and installed occasionally ) and then use a machine screw 4-40, 6-32, etc works great with more holding power then a normal wood screw. not for everything but just another trick for that magic repair
 
Phil Coffins said:
JB weld has no value in gun work, it will lead to poor workmanship and shoddy results.
Click to expand...

Define "gun work".

In a pinch I have mixed fine steel and or aluminum millings with JB and bedded a couple three actions on unmentionables with it. It is a very economical option if it's days out before Brownells or Midway can deliver anything.
 
Phil Coffins said:
JB weld has no value in gun work, it will lead to poor workmanship and shoddy results.
Click to expand...
With all due respect, I have to disagree there. Just a few weeks ago, I repaired a severely cracked unmentionable stock partly with JB Weld. No one will know, because on the areas that are actually visible, I used thin, clear epoxy mixed with matching wood dust. It's all in how you use it.
 
For the project you are working on, I agree, a wood dowel is best, but I have used JB Weld on MANY other things like this. It's great stuff. Everyone should have some on hand for use when they want it stuck for good.
 
Mgbruch said:
Use a hardwood dowel that is the size of the hole. Glue it with Tightbond III, then carefully file and sand flush. Mark the spot for your screw hole. Double check it. And drill carefully. Put beeswax or paraffin on the threads of your wood screws. They'll go in better. Seems like some folks are quick to go to JB Weld as a quick fix, when there are better solutions. The thing about any quick fix, is that it looks like a quick fix... and acts like one too.
Click to expand...
I prefer using hardwood plugs (over dowels if depth necessitates). They drill straighter and the threads hold better.
 
I just recently angled a buttplate screw incorrectly. When fully seated it pulled the buttplate slightly to one side…DIDN’T waste time trying to fudge anything ….3/8ths drill 3/8ths oak dowel Titebond, redrill….believe me it’s faster, it proper and it works better than any fudging you can come up with.
 
In this situation Kibler supplied screws that fit the butplate chamfers. Finding another type of screw that fits properly seems like making an easy task unnecessarily difficult.
 
LeeC. said:
I'm building a kibler colonial, coming along very well. I did run into an issue with butt plate fitment. The supplied screws had terrible threads...and I caught hell fitting it perfectly. Ended up snapping a screw, and decided to plug it, after drilling out left over screw shank in stock. Ended up with a larger hole, which I plugged with tooth picks and epoxy. That didn't work and wallowed out hole. Thought to use JB weld, but ended up drilling out hole to 7/16" and epoxing a like sized section of dowel. Curing now.

What's the opinion of this vs JB weld?
My impression is the JB would be tough to drill and begin threading a coarse threaded wood screw with out tapping first??

Btw, the bad screw is not kiblers fault at all. These things happen and I don't expect perfection on every little detail in life. His kits are excellent and very well made and designed. Can't wait to build another really.
Click to expand...
Did you contact Kibler and ask their advice?? Do that
 
When i buily chevys I had a striped out hole on a alumium intake the goose neck ,we fixed it usieng the jb weld filling the hole the, next morning drilled it a tapped it put the thing together and told him to bring it to my sho and will fix it the right was,,he never did and ran the for years with leaking!! so if dose hold on a chevy why not a long rifles,,i do use it here and there ,,but,if you need someting else,,use the pro bed from muzzleloaders builders supple,,used that a lot ,,
 

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