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Login Name Post: improving ignition        (Topic#278511)
Bryon 
45 Cal.
Posts: 876
03-17-13 04:19 PM - Post#1262949    


hi all ..so I've been shooting my gpr flint rifle and I'm more than happy with it. ive fired 50 rounds or so through the barrel and one thing i know is that i need to improve me ignition time. i have an rmc liner on the way...but what else can i do? I'm not Annie Oakley...but I'm not a terrible shot
either, but between the trigger...slow ignition icant hit the broad side of a barn... so what w else can i do to speed up the rifle

Edited by Bryon on 03-17-13 04:22 PM. Reason for edit: No reason given.

 
pappy237 
40 Cal.
Posts: 324
pappy237
03-17-13 04:31 PM - Post#1262955    

    In response to Bryon

Work with your follow thru. I have found that it is like shooting archery or playing golf. Follow thru is everything.

 
Richard Eames 
69 Cal.
Posts: 3582
03-17-13 05:24 PM - Post#1262967    

    In response to Bryon

  • Bryon Said:
hi all ..so I've been shooting my gpr flint rifle and I'm more than happy with it. ive fired 50 rounds or so through the barrel and one thing i know is that i need to improve me ignition time. i have an rmc liner on the way...but what else can i do? I'm not Annie Oakley...but I'm not a terrible shot
either, but between the trigger...slow ignition icant hit the broad side of a barn... so what w else can i do to speed up the rifle




The RMC vent liner will help.

Make some wood flints and use they to dry fire with, go to Lowes and get some wood and make them on your band saw.

Use 4F or Null B for pan powder..

Completely clean and oil your lock to speed up your lock.

 
Dan Phariss 
70 Cal.
Posts: 4622
Dan Phariss
03-17-13 05:45 PM - Post#1262978    

    In response to Bryon

Have an experienced FL shooter shoot the gun 2-3 times. FLs are ALL slow compared to a good percussion or a modern bolt action.
Dan

 
Jumpshot 
54 Cal.
Posts: 1937
Jumpshot
03-17-13 06:28 PM - Post#1262989    

    In response to Bryon

Polish the lock.

Use English flints and keep the edge sharp.

Wipe fouling off the frizzen between shots.

Make sure the touchhole doesn't get plugged with fouling.

Use real blackpowder, not the fake stuff.




 
Bryon 
45 Cal.
Posts: 876
03-17-13 07:16 PM - Post#1262999    

    In response to Jumpshot

so far these are all things i do...the only time i ever have a misfire I'd if i fail on my end....(not clamping out the vent) but how can i shorten the delay between flash and powder going ...boom. actually I'd say the rifle has been very reliable over all....i just can't seem to get past the time between trigger pull and bang

 
Bryon 
45 Cal.
Posts: 876
03-17-13 07:17 PM - Post#1263002    

    In response to Jumpshot

also how do i sharpen the flint.....i think it's getting
pottery dull

 
54mountain 
45 Cal.
Posts: 738
54mountain
03-17-13 08:18 PM - Post#1263023    

    In response to Bryon

If you haven't done it yet drill the touch hole out to at least 1/16" this helps a lot, even your new liner will problably need to be enlarged.
.


 
Pletch 
50 Cal.
Posts: 1274
03-17-13 08:43 PM - Post#1263035    

    In response to 54mountain

Please tell us that you are using real black powder in the barrel and pan.
Regards,
Pletch

 
Billnpatti 
Cannon
Posts: 7288
Billnpatti
03-17-13 09:05 PM - Post#1263041    

    In response to Bryon

Are you shooting from a good bench rest? You need to shoot from a good solid bench rest to be able to tell anything about how accurately your rifle shoots. You need to find the load, patch and lube combination that will give you the best group and this can only be done from a bench rest.

A simple way to sharpen your flint is to do it on your rifle. To do this, place your lock on full cock. Now use your right thumb to hold the cock as you lower it. Use your left thumb to open your frizzen. Lower the flint until it touches the heel of the frizzen. Now carefully hold the frizzen in this position and return your cock to the full cock position. Be sure your thumb is not where the flint will hit it when you pull the trigger. Now pull the trigger and allow the flint to strike the heel of the frizzen. This will break off small flakes from the edge of your flint and this will sharpen it. Be sure you are wearing eye protection to keep any tiny flakes of flint from getting in your eyes

 
Wet Willie 
40 Cal.
Posts: 379
03-17-13 09:33 PM - Post#1263053    

    In response to Billnpatti

Consider clearing the vent with a pick after loading the main charge. The flint spark can travel very fast to the main charge through the open vent (touch hole). If the vent is filled with powder, it acts like a fuze, burning its way more slowly to the main charge.

Some place a vent pick, feather quill, etc, in the vent prior to loading the main charge to assure there is an open channel from the pan to the main charge, then remove it before priming.

Tinkering with the lock, polishing mating surfaces, smoothing contacts, etc, will all help, but to a lesser degree than assuring a clear channel to the main charge.

A great link: http://www.blackpowdermag.com/

Much info on priming charge placement, vent location, etc. Based on verifiable test data.

 
Bryon 
45 Cal.
Posts: 876
03-17-13 10:21 PM - Post#1263071    

    In response to Pletch

lol no im using real BP, liike I said i ahve no reliability issues....just want to make it go bang quicker

 
Geo T 
54 Cal.
Posts: 1768
03-17-13 10:25 PM - Post#1263073    

    In response to Bryon

One thing that I did wrong was over filling the pan. Half way is best! Geo. T.

 
Bryon 
45 Cal.
Posts: 876
03-17-13 10:29 PM - Post#1263075    

    In response to 54mountain

its hard to drill when u dont own tools..... lol I live in an appt complex so i think my neighbors would bitch if i stated drilling at 3 am

 
Jumpshot 
54 Cal.
Posts: 1937
Jumpshot
03-17-13 11:59 PM - Post#1263086    

    In response to Bryon

To sharpen the flint, I just tap the edge of it in two or three spots with the back edge of the blade of my patch knife. A few flakes come off and you have a sharp edge again. You'll probably need to pull the cock back to make room to get your knife in there.

Obviously, you want to do this before you reload, not after (for any new shooters reading this).





 
Flash Pan Dan 
45 Cal.
Posts: 808
03-18-13 12:44 AM - Post#1263089    

    In response to Bryon

Have you read this?

How to Shoot Flintlocks.

 
George91946 
40 Cal.
Posts: 159
03-18-13 12:48 AM - Post#1263090    

    In response to Bryon

Aren't Lyman breech plugs conical? If so, then try putting a wire 0.22 cal brush on a cleaning rod and clean out the conical plug several times during your shooting session. Also get a small wire to pick into the vent plug. Don't put a lot of moose milk down the barrel between shots.

I have had similar problems due to fouling or to oil residue that collected around the vent hole. These cause a hang fire on the first few shots and after 20 or so shots. I've given up on conical bottomed breech plug guns because of those problems. I've lost at least 2 rendezvous pistol matches because of conical breech architecture. I once cleaned a pistol course up to position #14 with a Pedersoli Charles Moore pistol (conical bottomed breech plug). On #15, I had a hang fire and missed due to fouling. Then, I had a no fire on #16 station. When the gun finally fired on the 6 th hammer fall, I missed the target. Lost the match, and very shortly thereafter, I gave that pistol away.

Lisle George

 
satwel 
40 Cal.
Posts: 181
03-18-13 06:08 AM - Post#1263116    

    In response to Bryon

Everyone gave you excellent advice but Pappy237's is the best. Follow through is key to good shooting, especially flintlocks. Aim, fire, then aim again. It sounds simple, but it takes practice. Once mastered, you will shoot all firearms better.
Another poster was right on when he said don't overfill the pan. Less is more when it comes to priming.

 
KV Rummer 
40 Cal.
Posts: 266
03-18-13 06:28 AM - Post#1263118    

    In response to Bryon

The single thing that improved my flintlock shooting the most was to replace the flint with wood and dry fire a lot.

 
Bryon 
45 Cal.
Posts: 876
03-18-13 08:57 AM - Post#1263167    

    In response to KV Rummer

thanks for t he advice and ideas....i gots some ideas now at least

 
plinker 
40 Cal.
Posts: 111
03-20-13 12:05 PM - Post#1263872    

    In response to Bryon

I also have a GPR flinter as well as a GPR percussion rifle. It took a while for me to find out what the flinter likes and doesn't like. Mine wants to have the butt rapped on the ground 3 or 4 times to settle the powder before running the powder and patch down the barrel. Then fill the pan to almost level with 4f. That's all it normally wants. There is a barely perceptable delay when compared with the percussion rifle. I tried picking the vent, picking the vent and running powder into the vent hole , just running powder in the vent hole, etc. in order to figure out what it was trying to tell me. Once I found out what it wanted there were far fewer problems. I did not have to do any work on the lock other than enlarging the vent hole to 1/16 inch. That took less than a second with an electric drill but you could do it with a hand drill in not much more time than that.

FWIW the lock on my Pedersoli Kentucky pistol is faster than the locks on both my Lyman GPP and GPR. You shouldn't have to wait for the gun to go off after you have released the trigger. The click of the hammer release, the flash of the pan, and the boom should be simultaneous.

 
Richard Eames 
69 Cal.
Posts: 3582
03-20-13 01:13 PM - Post#1263886    

    In response to Bryon

By a RMC vent liner, you unscrew the one you have and then thread the new on. Cannot be any easier.

Use Teflon tape on the threads or anti-seize on the threads before installing the new liner.

I really like the one I have, speeded up the ignition and no slapping the rifle on the side anymore.

 
Rifleman1776 
Cannon
Posts: 14019
Rifleman1776
03-20-13 01:57 PM - Post#1263895    

    In response to Bryon

A lot of good tips have been offered. But, so far they have been trying to shoot flies out of the air in the dark. We don't know what is causing your 'slow' ignition. It could be any one of the things mentioned or something else. That is the fun in shooting flintlocks, they were originally designed to make us crazy.
You hangfire leads me to think it might be too small a touch hole or you are overfilling the pan.

 
M.D. 
70 Cal.
Posts: 4762
03-20-13 02:31 PM - Post#1263905    

    In response to Bryon

You might want to try making a black wire pick with a blunt rounded end and load with it in place clear to the far side of the barrel.
Pull it after loading just before firing. It keeps the flash hole consistently clean and clear and leaves a hole in the powder column for the flash to get into.
It also acts as a sort of safety while in place because it snugly and completely blocks the flash hole. MD

 
Bryon 
45 Cal.
Posts: 876
03-22-13 03:06 AM - Post#1264339    

    In response to Rifleman1776

I like the wire pick idea....also ..i use a t/c pan charger that throws 3 grains at a time. went shooting today....i think it must be the vent ....the first few shots were right quick...and as a kept shooting the de;ay got longer. then i stripped and cleaned the rifle at the range reassembled....and again t he first few shots were quick and then became slower....so looks like a new vent is needed

 
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