stainning maple

In the process of a build using curly maple, hear there is an acid you can use to pull up the grain. Any body know what it is? And any thing else that works better than Stain?

wiskiwells

Theres been a few Aquafortis threads recently here in this forum, scroll down and check them out. It (Nitrate of Iron) was used to stain maple back when and still is used today. Done right it makes maple pop! :thumbsup:
http://www.muzzleloadingforum.com/fusionbb/showtopic.php?tid/268968/
http://www.muzzleloadingforum.com/fusionbb/showtopic.php?tid/268881/

Just two threads, theres others!

Thanks for the information, I shall try the (Aquafortis). The color on the guns pictured in the articals is perfect.

Colors will vary with each individual piece of wood and how many applications you do. It isn't so much the color as the fact that it doesn't obscure (or enhances) the natural grain of the wood....or gives it depth....that is otherwise obscured by the solids in dyes and stains.

If you don't have a source of Nitric Acid or are just uncomfortable playing with the nasty stuff, Aqua Fortis it is available under the Wahkon Bay label from various sources.

Another option is to buy Ferric Nitrate crystals through somebody like The Science Company. The crystals are easy to use. Disolve them in distilled water or alcohol and you have Aqua Fortis.

Unless you can get the Nitric Acid "donated" from a high school science lab or some other source, these options are much cheaper and safer.

If you try to order it you will find it expensive and pay HAZMAT fees.

Also, if you decide to mix your own full PPE is highly recommended. PLEASE BE VERY, VERY CAREFUL.

Enjoy, J.D.

What is the best / preferred method of neutralizing AF?

You'll get all kinds of answers to that question.

Some say don't bother as they claim the that if prepaired properly the acid "spent".

Some use hard wood ashes and water mixed to a paste - lye...very caustic, wear gloves.

My choice, old fashioned baking soda and water and more water.

I'm sure there are other methods. I forget what Chris Immel does, Stophel?

Enjoy, J.D.

I use household ammonia.

Mitch

Another option is to buy Ferric Nitrate crystals through somebody like The Science Company.

Click to expand...

I tried this on my maple stocked fowler I just completed, and it worked splendidly. I used denatured alcohol to mix it with. No acid or neutralizing to worry about. Couldn't be easier and I'm definitely going to use it on my next build.

Ok,

So I understand how to mix the iron into the nitric acid, keep adding until the acid wont take any more.

Is there an established mixture ratio for the ferric nitrate crystals to water/alcohol ?

I'm kinda on the fence here on which way I want to go with this, either nitric acid or ferric nitrate crystals. Looked into the hazmat fees for shipping and its spendy, I want to get this right the first time as I don't want to get stuck with that high shipping again.

I used Vinegaroon on a couple of curly tomahawk handles,they were very pretty.
Macon

I am building a fullstock St. Louis Hawken and the customer wants the stock stained with aqua fortis. Track doesn't list it in their catalog or web site. I just ordered mine (Wahkon Bay, I think) from Muzzleloader Builders Supply, Aberdeen, Idaho.

Colors will vary with each individual piece of wood and how many applications you do.

Click to expand...

That is, IMHO, a very critical piece of information.
I am not a talented craftsman. The few stocks I have made and stained required a cautious approach. I dilute, about 4 or 5 to one the AF stain. I test on the inside of the barrel channel or a cut-off scrap of wood. By diluting I can slowly bring the degree of stain/color up to where I want it without rising getting too dark. When you arrive at that point neutralize or the acid will continue to work and darken your wood and eventually may give a green color.
This is the 'chicken' or amatures approach. :wink:

ApprenticeBuilder said:

Is there an established mixture ratio for the ferric nitrate crystals to water/alcohol ?

Click to expand...

nothing "established" far as I can tell.
I use about 20ml, by volume, of crystals, dissolved in 50ml denatured alcohol.
Link

4th from left is after FeNO3+EtOH and heat blushed.
/mike

Thanks a bunch, remember liking the pics of that rifle.

Will look into the crystals.

So theres no neutralizing needed with the crystals? Because this is what happened when I wasn't aware you had to neut AF, dont really want this again on a piece of expensive wood.

p.s. this was done before i knew about the forum etc,I had watched HH's video and apparently he leaves them as is.

DTCoffin said:

So theres no neutralizing needed with the crystals?

Click to expand...

some do, some don't.
I've been neutralizing with ammonia.
doesn't hurt, and might help, is my reasoning.
/m

Aftar the desired color is reached you flush with water, to neutralize the acid?
One other question, Are the pics in order,I mean is that 6 coats or is there more not shown?

wiskiwells said:

Aftar the desired color is reached you flush with water, to neutralize the acid?
One other question, Are the pics in order,I mean is that 6 coats or is there more not shown?

Click to expand...

I wouldn't call it "coats", more like applications.
Have a base in the water to neutralize.

wiskiwells said:

Aftar the desired color is reached you flush with water, to neutralize the acid?
One other question, Are the pics in order,I mean is that 6 coats or is there more not shown?

Click to expand...

wiskiwells: No - not 6 coats !!
I'll PM you rather than divert this whole thread.
/mm

MeteorMan said:

wiskiwells: No - not 6 coats !!
I'll PM you rather than divert this whole thread.
/mm

Click to expand...

Anyone else interested in how MeteorMan arrived at these colors can click on his link above.

Once it is opened scroll down and click on view entire link. He outlines his staining process there.

Thanks for sharing your methods for us MeteorMan.

Enjoy, J.D.