• This community needs YOUR help today. We rely 100% on Supporting Memberships to fund our efforts. With the ever increasing fees of everything, we need help. We need more Supporting Members, today. Please invest back into this community. I will ship a few decals too in addition to all the account perks you get.



    Sign up here: https://www.muzzleloadingforum.com/account/upgrades
  • Friends, our 2nd Amendment rights are always under attack and the NRA has been a constant for decades in helping fight that fight.

    We have partnered with the NRA to offer you a discount on membership and Muzzleloading Forum gets a small percentage too of each membership, so you are supporting both the NRA and us.

    Use this link to sign up please; https://membership.nra.org/recruiters/join/XR045103

Ferric Nitrate - Again

Muzzleloading Forum

Help Support Muzzleloading Forum:

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate links, including eBay, Amazon, and others.
Joined
Aug 26, 2022
Messages
708
Reaction score
1,763
Location
PA
I've done a search and read some of the threads and have also searched on the Net, guitar and knife makers forums. Not sure I got the answer I am looking for.

Made a maple grip for a Colt Navy replica, not fancy wood, no figure or Birds Eye just a plain piece I had laying around since forever. Though I'm not generally a stain type of guy, the maple is just too light and IMO will look out of place on the handgun.

2 Questions:

1 - Does this act like your typical store bought stain and darken areas of end grain far more than the rest of the wood?

2 - And I assume the answer to this is, no, but just in case. Should I use a sealer before using the ferric solution?

I ordered some of the chemical from Ebay for a good price but I don't care if I don't use if it won't fit my needs.

Of course I oriented the wood with the end grain at the bottom of the grip but at the curve at the top of the grip it is basically end grain. I did a quick and dirty sanding and hit it with some water to get an idea what it would look like with a clear finish, that is when I saw the curved area get dark with just water and figured that, yeah that is basically end grain up there. So I don't want a big dark stained area there. If that is what would happen I think I'll switch my plan to a coat of sealer and then a gel stain. Any thoughts/suggestions.

It is a Pietta from Midland and was very inexpensive and came with the ugly, black plastic grip, that had to go!
 
I'm waiting to try it on my first build and so have watched numerous videos, and I think my answers to your questions (keeping in mind my inexperience with the product, but the it's viewpoint from which I'm going to approach it) is #1 - no, don't treat it like a typical store-bought stain, and #2 - no, don't use a sealer because that defeats its very mechanism of action.

May others more experienced than I correct me where I'm wrong on those two points.

Practice first on some scrap wood of same type, if you've got any, if not, the inside of the barrel channel.

As a side note, and again personal opinion for which I usually get blasted: gel stain on a gun stock is cr*p.
 
Back
Top