Frizzen does not fly all the way open

Just finished my first build, a sthn mtn .40 cal flintlock with 42" green mt barrel. I built it for hunting foxes and similar sized game but no doubt opportunities will arise on slightly larger game such as young deer for the pot. It's a bit rough and no doubt needs a tidy up but I was on a time restraint and my set up wasnt too good. May have to buy a vice.

This morning was my first foray into the world of flint and I think I am hooked. The simplicity of it is just awesome. My first shot at 25m was on line but about 10 inches low so after some filing I got it on the bull.

Then moved the target out to 50m. More filing to get it back in the bull. All up fired about 18 shots. After the filing about ten of those shots were within three inches.

I was shooting off a bench rest and the load was 50gn FFFg, 0.014 patch wonderlube, 0.395 cast r/b.
I think I have a winner but do have a few Q's.

1. The frizzen does not fly all the way open when the hammer strikes. The flint is connecting about halfway up. It is a siler large lock. Do I need to get the flint to hit higher or should I file the bottom of the frizzen that engages the spring?

I am already thinking about a big brother for it, maybe a .58 or .62cal.

:hmm: Could be it just needs a drop of oil on the frizzen pivot bolt. Maybe polish the friction points. Maybe lighten the frizzen spring a little.
Your flint should hit about 2/3 up the face of the frizzen.
Sounds like she's a shooter.

If made by Chambers I would give them a call and not work on it at all.

You should be using a std. 3/4 flint, which is 7/8" long. If not, try using that. If that is the length flint you are using, try using a thicker jaw leather on the flint.
As mentioned, also lubricate the pivot points & also lubricate the toe of the frizzen where it rides against the frizzen spring.

The fact it doesn't go all the way open is not really important, the fact that it has ignition every time is important. I would not modify anything on the lock if it is giving you reliable ignition.

Keith Lisle

All good advice. If it's not opening from shot one, flint length, and lubrication are suspect. Since it's a really good quality lock, I don't suspect the lock geometry, but on lesser locks I have seen the frizzen cam (where the frizzen engages the frizzen spring) to be too long or poorly shaped and out-of-round.

Another minor problem is polish. Polish the surface of the frizzen cam, and the side of the frizzen spring where the cam rubs, with a drop or two of baby oil and some emery paper. These two surfaces should be very smooth. Wipe them clean and reassemble the lock, and give it a try, along with some grease or oil on the frizzen screw.

Finally, check the side of your barrel and if you have some circular scratches..., if it is the inside edge of the frizzen is rubbing on the barrel, and the friction there is your problem. Again polish with emery paper and baby oil. You only want to remove just enough to stop the rubbing, and too much metal removed will mean a gap, and a place for moisture to ruin your prime.

The baby oil trick was given me by a gunsmith, and it keeps the micro-particles of metal from reducing the abrasiveness of the emery paper. Sounds odd, but it works better than dry paper.

LD

Before you file or bend or grind anything you should troubleshoot that it is not rebounding. Rebounding happens so fast that you can't see it with your eyes. It's simple to diagnose. Take a thin piece of scrap paper and lay it on the frizzen spring where the frizzen stop hits. (The frizzen stop is the curlyQ pig tail that sticks out in front of the frizzen) Snap the lock with the paper in place. If the frizzen is still only half open look at the paper and see if there is a mark where the stop hit it. Then you'll know that the frizzen did open all the way and rebounded back. This is actually more common than not opening all the way.

If it is not rebounding then proceede with Birdog's ideas,longer flint, oil etc. If you do decide to file/grind on the toe of the frizzen be sure you know what you want to accomplish and know when to stop.

Are your flints breaking? If so that's another sign of rebounding. My guess is your flint is too short. If your flint is bevel down, try it bevel up.

Duane

Kapow....I've never had to buy a vice. All of mine came naturally and for free. However, you will need a good vise if you plan on working on muzzleloaders. :haha: cheers mate! Paul

Are you sure it isn't opening all the way and rebounding back half way? This seems to happen a lot to me.

laffindog said:

Before you file or bend or grind anything you should troubleshoot that it is not rebounding. Rebounding happens so fast that you can't see it with your eyes. It's simple to diagnose. Take a thin piece of scrap paper and lay it on the frizzen spring where the frizzen stop hits. (The frizzen stop is the curlyQ pig tail that sticks out in front of the frizzen) Snap the lock with the paper in place. If the frizzen is still only half open look at the paper and see if there is a mark where the stop hit it. Then you'll know that the frizzen did open all the way and rebounded back. This is actually more common than not opening all the way.

If it is not rebounding then proceede with Birdog's ideas,longer flint, oil etc. If you do decide to file/grind on the toe of the frizzen be sure you know what you want to accomplish and know when to stop.

Click to expand...

There is an article called "Frizzen Bounce-Back" by Frank Twist in the Sept/Oct 2011 issue of MUZZLELOADER magazine. Very informative read if you have access to it....BPS

Duane said:

Are your flints breaking? If so that's another sign of rebounding. My guess is your flint is too short. If your flint is bevel down, try it bevel up.

Duane

Click to expand...

Senior moment-I meant to say if your flint is bevel up then try it bevel down.

I have an old L&R lock that the frizzen will not open all the way unless the flint is almost touching it, as much as an 1/8 away and it doesn't open. It does fire every time though.

I think the frizzen is opening fully and bouncing back from the force of the feather spring.

If it isn't breaking the flint when it does this I wouldn't worry about it.

Well none of you were right, but none were wrong either and I learned a few more things along the way. I tried all of the above to no avail then filed and polished the cam to a slightly less agressive shape and now it opens every time upon firing. i also turned the flint bevel down and it now strikes two thirds the way up. Thanks to all who offered their advice. I suspect this is the beginning of another learning curve.

As an aside I couldn't wait to see if it worked the day I finished it so I put a little powder down the barrel without any projectile and a little powder on the pan and took it out to the back yard (built up area in middle of town). I touched it of expecting a mild pfff. BOOOOMMM! Oops, I ran inside expecting the fun Police to arrive any moment.

Glad things worked out for you, but then ...

a ha!

(insert mad scientist laugh here) BWAHAHAHAHA!!!!

he's hooked for sure, poor fellow.

welcome to the addiction (for which, thankfully, a cure is unavailable). now go out and (in a place less likely to attract attention of the constabulary nature)

MAKE GOOD SMOKE.

loosen your lock bolts a little