has anyone but polyurethane or acrylic coatings on their wood stock? i had a chip on the wood of my 50 cal. pistol. file it down and sanded the wood so i could restain the wood darker. i was wondering if one of these would work to help keep the wood from chipping. i also dont want it to be shiny, want it to look like it is not there. any suggestions?
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polyurethane
- Thread starter cruiser96
- Start date
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I have been using polyurethane to finish and if you don't want shiney then you need to avoid it.
You own it, you can do anything you want with your own guns.
But, it would not look very traditional. Guns that are used are bound to get 'beauty' marks. Don't fret over it. The scratch or chip, if it is small, can just be sanded lightly and stained to blend in with the original stock. If a deep chip, sanding or fixing might be called for.
But, please keep the plastic finishes for yer suppository guns.
But, it would not look very traditional. Guns that are used are bound to get 'beauty' marks. Don't fret over it. The scratch or chip, if it is small, can just be sanded lightly and stained to blend in with the original stock. If a deep chip, sanding or fixing might be called for.
But, please keep the plastic finishes for yer suppository guns.
vthunter52
40 Cal.
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- Jan 5, 2013
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cruiser,
I once apprenticed with a gunsmith who worked on custom modern rifles. One of the secrets that he showed me was how to dull, yet still have the protection of the poly on the stocks.
If you have access to sand blast gun, lightly blast the stock, being careful not to remove the poly. This will take the gloss out of the finish. Then all you need to do is hand rub the stock with Tru-oil, or BOILED linseed oil. The result is a durable, yet dull finish. Hope this was helpful.
I once apprenticed with a gunsmith who worked on custom modern rifles. One of the secrets that he showed me was how to dull, yet still have the protection of the poly on the stocks.
If you have access to sand blast gun, lightly blast the stock, being careful not to remove the poly. This will take the gloss out of the finish. Then all you need to do is hand rub the stock with Tru-oil, or BOILED linseed oil. The result is a durable, yet dull finish. Hope this was helpful.
And now for the correct answer!
You can buy polyurethane in several grades of “shinny”. The matte finish is not any more shinny than a rubbed Tru-oil finish is. You can use 0000 steel wool to dull it further. No polyurethane will not protect your gun from chips and scratches.
You can buy polyurethane in several grades of “shinny”. The matte finish is not any more shinny than a rubbed Tru-oil finish is. You can use 0000 steel wool to dull it further. No polyurethane will not protect your gun from chips and scratches.
jdkerstetter
69 Cal.
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- Feb 15, 2012
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Only buy the high gloss. Rub it back with rottenstone, fine sandpaper, scotchbrite, steel wool, or whatever abrasive to the desired "dull".
The various grades of matte and semi-gloss poly contain addatives to make them dull. The addatives cloud the finish...make less translucent. Fine for your floors or the front door, but not your gun.
Enjoy, J.D.
The various grades of matte and semi-gloss poly contain addatives to make them dull. The addatives cloud the finish...make less translucent. Fine for your floors or the front door, but not your gun.
Enjoy, J.D.
Col. Batguano
75 Cal.
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- Feb 10, 2011
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To my tastes, poly as it comes out of the can is too thick, and needs to be cut back 4:1 with mineral spirits. It tends to need a fair amount of sanding between coats.
For that reason, I prefer an alkyd varnish, such as is in Danish oil, or Tung oil. Those also tend to allow for greater wood movement, though they are slower to cure.
For that reason, I prefer an alkyd varnish, such as is in Danish oil, or Tung oil. Those also tend to allow for greater wood movement, though they are slower to cure.
