Repairing a Cracked/Splintered Stock

Hello all,
I just recently purchased a used rifle that unfortunately got damaged while en route. I am wanting to repair the damage to the best of my ability. I have attached pictures of the damaged area and I have all of the splinters and pieces of wood from the damaged area. Any helpful advice on how to do this would be appreciated.

Jeff


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if i remember your previous post, you were able to find the broken piece in the wrapping. i can't remember the name of the stuff, but if you poke around the Brownell's catalog, you'll probably find it near the barrel bedding stuff...

just a thought.

good luck with your repair... the rifle looks like a pretty interesting piece.


ok ... just looked it up in Brownell's online ... accraglass, but considering the location of the repair, some superglue might do just as well...



make good smoke! :hmm: :hmm:

I am almost able to placed all of the splinters back into their respective spots such that once appropriately placed, the area looks almost normal. Do you feel that superglue would be appropriate and would work for this? I don't mind getting the things that I need, my main concern is doing the best job possible.

If I were to superglue the pieces back. Would I then paint back over or restain the area to disguise the fractures? I feel like this shouldn't be rocket science but I figure I've got one shot to do it right. Thanks for the help.

Jeff

You don't need to mess with the Acraglas as this area isn't under any stress. Simple wood or hide glue and a patch of simular wood is all that is required.

If you don't have the piece to glue back in or if it's too damaged to reuse, then you need to find some matching walnut. Slice off the damaged area, in the same direction as the grain if possible, so you have a nice flat surface to glue to. Using the new piece of wood cut off a piece that matches the grain as close as possible and glue it on. Use a little creative clamping and once dry, shape and stain to match the rest of the fore end.

This the correct fix and keeping everything clean and having both pieces dead flat the glue seam will be almost invisible. Many originals show patching done just this way....on some the wood didn't match at all so no worries.

Good Luck, J.D.

So, you have the pieces. Super glue won't take stain at all and if there is too much wood missing to achieve a fit you are satisfied with go with my first post.

If there are slivers missing, there is nothing you can do to fill them other than replace them other than wood that will accept stain correctly.

If the missing pieces are small you can mix up some epoxy with some alcohol soluable dye or tempra paint powder until it matches the stock finish and us that to secure the piece you have and fill in the missing pieces. Acraglas is nothing more than a strong epoxy.

Some stainable wood glues work fine for in seams and cracks but don't work well for gap fillers and will show in the end.

One other thing you can try is to glue in the original piece as best you can and try to avoid squeeze out into the areas where there are missing slivers. After it dries cut some slivers from inside the barrel channel and shape them to fit the missing wood and use them to fill the voids as they are your best chance at a stain match. You may have to remove wood in difficult areas to be able to make a patch that has a good gluing surface.

Again, good luck, J.D.

Jdkerstetter,
Thanks for the help. I do have all of the missing pieces, such that I can put them all back just the way they came out. As far as securing them back in place, I believe you are recommending just a normal epoxy with some colored dye to match the wood. Can you confirm? If so, after the project is done, if there is epoxy on the surface of the stock, can I simply sand it off lightly?

Jeff

If you have all of the pieces and can put them back and have them remain gap free, then I suggest only using regular wood glue or hide glue.

I would just glue one piece at a time and allow it to dry before doing the next one. This will be tedious...not my idea of fun.

Again, being creative with the clamping will be necessary.

Epoxy with color added if there was going to be splinters missing only.

Enjoy, J.D.

Thanks J.D. I will post up pictures of my repair job. I hope it turns out well but in the end, I will take function over fashion. The gun is meant to be a working gun and not one that I plan on selling.

P.S. Are there any long term negatives to using wood glue instead of epoxy? Will it last pretty much forever?

Jeff

That is an easy fix,,never see it,, when done correctly,,Ulmers Cabinet Glue, Type III,I use it in my furniture /cabinet shop,water proof and if you get the type that is stainable you can match the color,and hide the cracks/repair.
Been my experience.super glue/epoxy won't take stain very well if at all.
If your real careful and place the splinters back ,with the stainable glue ,,if you need it, shouldn't be a concern.
Clamping!!!!wide rubber bands,or strips of rubber cut from an inner tube or large rubber bands cut in half to form strips.Glue the wood in place wrap the repair with the bands,stretched and wrapped as you go.Careful on the placement of the bands,they can pull the repair out of position,this one dosn't look like it will move,depending on the number of splinters you have,.When you come to the end of the strip just tuck the end under the last wrap and let it set. :grin:
Strips stretched and wrapped are "additive" in the pressure they apply,like when you wrap a rubber band around your finger as you stretch it as you go and the rubber will not stick to the wood... :wink:

Properly cured wood glue joints are stronger than the surrounding wood.

Regardless, you are going to be applying a finish over this repair, right? No matter how good of a glue up you do there are likely going to be some exposed wood fibers that need to be sealed.

Good luck, J.D.

Thanks guys. You all have boosted my confidence and I believe that I can do this repair.

Jeff

Sperit de bois said:

Clamping!!!!wide rubber bands,or strips of rubber cut from an inner tube or large rubber bands cut in half to form strips.Glue the wood in place wrap the repair with the bands,stretched and wrapped as you go.Careful on the placement of the bands,they can pull the repair out of position,this one dosn't look like it will move,depending on the number of splinters you have,.When you come to the end of the strip just tuck the end under the last wrap and let it set. :grin:
Strips stretched and wrapped are "additive" in the pressure they apply,like when you wrap a rubber band around your finger as you stretch it as you go and the rubber will not stick to the wood... :wink:

Click to expand...

Bicycle tire inner tube ... :thumbsup:

Ayah!!that's the one..can't go wrong for holding weird shaped items,and with power/grip.

does UPS get credit for the damage? :cursing:

If you use 5 or 6 minute epoxy, you can put some rubbing achohol on a rag and it will wipe the glue off the surface.

A little coloring in the stainable wood glue would make the repairs very unnoticable. spread on both the spliter(s) and the stock in moderation, push into place, wipe with a damp cloth and clamp tight. Very little clean up after dry time. Just my theroy.

Roguedog said:

Jdkerstetter,
Thanks for the help. I do have all of the missing pieces, such that I can put them all back just the way they came out. As far as securing them back in place, I believe you are recommending just a normal epoxy with some colored dye to match the wood. Can you confirm? If so, after the project is done, if there is epoxy on the surface of the stock, can I simply sand it off lightly?

Jeff

Click to expand...

No on the epoxy and super glue (CA). Also a big no on Gorilla glue.
I reccomend TiteBond II (2). Stay away from TBIII (3).
The TBII dries colorless and you really should not have much, if any, glue line. Don't over do the glue. At that location you can use rubber bands to hold the pieces in place while it sets up. Excess glue squeezing out can be cleaned with a wet rag or paper towel.

From your pictures it looks like the stock may
have more wood than the nose cap.
Can you take the stock down to match the nose cap
and refinish?
G

Men,
I performed the stock repair and I must say, I was very pleased with how easy it was and how well it turned out. I will delay in posting pictures until such time that I can stain it. I used wood glue to secure all the fragments and splinters back onto the stock. I let it dry and then lightly sanded it down. Looks good, I think. Anyway, thanks for all the helpful hints.

Jeff

glad to hear things worked out OK for 'ya!