Yet Another Kibler Longrifles Kit Build...

[Eric Krewson]

You probably checked this, did you make sure the vent line wasn't protruding into the barrel? I have had to file almost every one I have installed off a little. On the first one I checked after the fact and had to file it off from inside the barrel. On all the rest I screwed them in, checked for intrusion into the barrel then pulled them back out to remove the excess metal before doing the permanent install and cutting off the lug.

 

[Art Caputo]

Hey Bob. The way I understand it, GM is supplying the blanks, with .45 and up with the rifling. Jim is profiling them with the smooth transition all the way down the barrel instead of the stepped way it was before.
>> Jan <<

Yes, this is the case. The Green Mountain barrel contour Is very nice with no transition evident! I recently added a 58 cal barrel to interchange with my 50 cal, GM barreled Colonial Rifle. Both barrels were very nicely finished and the completed barrels are indistinguishable from one and other, with the exception of the bore size. Draw filing, drilling the tabs, fitting the sights, and finish took all of a day and a half. I have no experience with the Rice barreled Kibler’s, but the after 2 outings firing about 30 rounds through each barrel, I was quite pleased with the smooth loading, accuracy, and easy cleaning. Both barrels have straight cut rifling.
The 58 cal 100 yard target.

 

[Bob McBride]

Hey Bob. The way I understand it, GM is supplying the blanks, with .45 and up with the rifling. Jim is profiling them with the smooth transition all the way down the barrel instead of the stepped way it was before.
>> Jan <<

Yea, you are right. I apparently put my brain on backwards when I got up yesterday.

 

[MTGUNNER]

Yea, you are right. I apparently put my brain on backwards when I got up yesterday.

:>)) Don't I know THAT feeling :>))

 

[RB POWELL]

Yep. But it was a PITA to file out. I've done two more sides now, and each of them also had a similar gouge at the muzzle end. Again, nothing near dangerous; just extra work.

As I said earlier, this is the only barrel I've ever done. So I don't know whether marks like this are to be expected, or something out of the ordinary. Regardless, they're getting handled...

Looks to me like an easy draw file out.

 

[EC121]

No step down in my Rice barreled Colonial. Good curve all the way.

 

[troy2000]

Looks to me like an easy draw file out.

Depends on what you call easy. I spent more time on the gouges than the entire rest of the barrel - and certainly didn't finish in five minutes per flat, which is what Jim estimates draw filing should take. And since the gouges were at the muzzle end, I tried to file them down evenly so the muzzle doesn't look cattywampus.

But granted, it was no earthshaking, hair-rending problem. It just added a little time and effort...

 

[troy2000]

Yea, you are right. I apparently put my brain on backwards when I got up yesterday.

That's why you should use a sharpie, to mark an arrow showing which end is the front.

 

[RB POWELL]

Depends on what you call easy. I spent more time on the gouges than the entire rest of the barrel - and certainly didn't finish in five minutes per flat, which is what Jim estimates draw filing should take. And since the gouges were at the muzzle, I tried to file them down evenly so the muzzle doesn't look cattywampus.

But granted, it was no earthshaking, hair-rending problem. It just added a little time and effort...

Didn't mean any disrespect. Glad it worked out.

 

[troy2000]

Didn't mean any disrespect. Glad it worked out.

Didn't mean to get defensive, but I guess I did. No offense taken...

 

[troy2000]

I have a swamp cooler in my shop instead of AC, and the humidity isn't really good for bare metal. So I started finishing the metal parts before going after the stock. I've already talked about draw filing the barrel. Next, I tackled the butt plate. It wasn't bad, except for a good-sized lump from the casting gate at one end. My disc sander knocked that down to reasonable file depth in a hurry.

I followed Jim's instructions: smooth everything with files; hit it with 220 sandpaper wrapped around files; hit it again with something finer. I used 320 because that's what I had, and finished up with Scotch Brite. Then I moved on to the trigger guard. I was impressed with that casting; it looked almost like it could be used as-is. But when I started filing and sanding it, I realized it did need some TLC.

One thing that amazed and amused me: in its original state, I couldn't see any parting lines. But when I started filing, there they were. So I disappeared them (I thought), and moved on to sanding with the 220. Lo and behold, suddenly I had parting lines again. I faithfully disappeared them again, and moved on to the 320 paper - only to come face to face with the parting lines yet again. I scrubbed them away once more. If they had reappeared when I moved on to Scotch Brite, I was planning to stop the job and call an exorcist. But they finally stayed gone...

I didn't go near the lock, trigger assembly or ramrod pipes with anything but Scotch Brite; that's all they needed.

 

[troy2000]

My phone just took a dump, so this post is without pic's.

I scrubbed all the metal parts down with Dawn and a microfiber cloth to disappear oil, grease and handprints, and went into the nooks and crannies with a toothbrush. I highly recommend that toothbrush, because any corners you miss will stay bright and laugh at you when you hit them with tarnishing solution... Don't ask me how I know.

I followed Jim's video on the barrel, and rubbed it down lightly and repeatedly with a chunk of Scotch Brite dripping with tarnishing solution. He recommends hitting it with WD-40 or something similar and rubbing it down with 0000 steel wool when done. But the propellent has died in my ancient can of WD-40, and all the steel wool in my shop is coarser. So I hit it with some Ballistol, wiped it down with paper towels, and called it good for now. At least it's somewhat protected... I like the metal dark anyway, so I probably won't wind up rubbing it back any more than necessary to smooth out the color.

Then I did likewise with all the miscellaneous parts. When I start sanding the stock, I'll need to have the butt plate installed so I can blend it and the wood together, and I anticipate having to touch up the butt plate when I'm done. No big deal...

 

[Troyfairweather]

I always wonder why with muzzleloaders when built guys make them look worn or well used, when I get a kibler I'd be very tempted to build it like a new gun and let the years of use and the Finnish. Think I'd rust blue the barrel, I don't know what the metal finishes would have been but rust bluing is pretty old.

 

[troy2000]

I always wonder why with muzzleloaders when built guys make them look worn or well used, when I get a kibler I'd be very tempted to build it like a new gun and let the years of use and the Finnish. Think I'd rust blue the barrel, I don't know what the metal finishes would have been but rust bluing is pretty old.

I can understand both approaches, Troy. But like you, I plan on finishing mine like a new gun and letting the mileage accumulate on it naturally. Between me, my sons and my nephew it'll be well-used; I don't own safe queens.

 

[Troyfairweather]

I can understand both approaches, Troy. But like you, I plan on finishing mine like a new gun and letting the mileage accumulate on it naturally. And it'll be well-used; I don't have safe queens.

What Finnish are you using on the steel, like I said I think I'd rust blue mine, I still have to make a steam chamber. I got a few rifles I want to do as well. I have a bottle of Browning to somewhere, but think I'd like the blue better.

 

[troy2000]

What Finnish are you using on the steel, like I said I think I'd rust blue mine, I still have to make a steam chamber. I got a few rifles I want to do as well. I have a bottle of Browning to somewhere, but think I'd like the blue better.

I'm using the brass tarnishing solution Jim sells. It turns steel pretty black, but can be rubbed back a little or a lot. I'll probably leave mine fairly dark.

 

[Troyfairweather]

I'm using the brass tarnishing solution Jim sells. It turns steel pretty black, but can be rubbed back a little or a lot. I'll probably leave mine fairly dark.

I seen there a normal pan and a water proof pan from jim, I can't find what the difference is, I'm a hunter so the water proof ones should be what I get.

 

[Art Caputo]

I seen there a normal pan and a water proof pan from jim, I can't find what the difference is, I'm a hunter so the water proof ones should be what I get.

The difference is in the frizzes pan cover design. A flat surface covering the pan has a small step that allows a portion, the same dimension as the pan opening, which is supposed to resist water entry. See picture below. I have locks with both designs. In wet weather, I would still use a cows knee, or grease with either design.

 

[toot]

Yes, this is the case. The Green Mountain barrel contour Is very nice with no transition evident! I recently added a 58 cal barrel to interchange with my 50 cal, GM barreled Colonial Rifle. Both barrels were very nicely finished and the completed barrels are indistinguishable from one and other, with the exception of the bore size. Draw filing, drilling the tabs, fitting the sights, and finish took all of a day and a half. I have no experience with the Rice barreled Kibler’s, but the after 2 outings firing about 30 rounds through each barrel, I was quite pleased with the smooth loading, accuracy, and easy cleaning. Both barrels have straight cut rifling.
The 58 cal 100 yard target.
View attachment 43685

now that group, it sure has BRAGGIN RITES!!

 

[Troyfairweather]

The difference is in the frizzes pan cover design. A flat surface covering the pan has a small step that allows a portion, the same dimension as the pan opening, which is supposed to resist water entry. See picture below. I have locks with both designs. In wet weather, I would still use a cows knee, or grease with either design.
View attachment 43808

Thanks, ya I'd still use a cover, are there any negatives with a water proof pan?