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Wire trigger/bolt spring

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nikke

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Does any one knows who sells the wire type trigger/bolt spring that fits the Pietta 1851, are they any good?
 
Just go down to a hobby shop and pick up some piano wire of the correct size and make one.
I've made several out of stainless flat spring stock but piano wire would be lots easier and last just as long.
 
I have just fitted one in my 2nd Generation Navy, it came from Brownells and was advertised for the Single Action Army Series but fitted straight in with a tiny bit of tweaking.
I agree with M.D. in future I will buy a length of piano wire and make my own now I know the diameter.
I haven't had chance to shoot it yet but it feels lighter if that makes sense??
 
I would go with about .050-.055 if it were me.
This is a two lever spring, one for the bolt lift and the other the trigger return.
What is the diameter of the wire spring from Brownells?
 
I was going by memory on my guess of the .050 wire diameter used for making a trigger return spring on a rifle a few months ago.
I use a fare amount of it for winding various coil and torsion springs for gun projects.
It comes in three foot lengths in packets of three from the hobby shop I buy from.
It has both the mm and thousands diameter printed on the bundle tag.
 
Being that piano wire will be used as a "spring," how do you bend it to make sure it takes a set in the right shape? Can someone describe the actual technique or method used in bending it?
 
I have used a steel rod mounted in the vice and bent them to shape with vice grips around the rod.
I have copper plates for the vice jaws if holding the wire directly so as not to put dings or grip marks in the spring itself.
When using vice grips always lock the jaws on longer than will be needed so as not to mark up the finished spring.
This is a pretty simple spring to make and will not require a winding arbor or forming jig.
 
I bought a pair of round wire bending pliers from Hobbycraft. They are available in a couple of sizes and work on the size of wire used for making a spring. They are just the job for the little bit of tweaking that you will invariably need too do to get the spring perfect. I found that the Brownells spring was very slightly proud of the bottom of the frame and just needed 'relaxing' a bit to get it to clear.
 
This is a picture of a similar spring to the one I fitted in my Navy, like I said it more or less fitted straight in with very few minutes 'fettling'.



The long leg has a small kink in it which isn't too clear in the picture. Hope it helps?
 
Thanks for the picture now I won't need to make one.
This would be quite an easy spring to duplicate with piano wire.
You wouldn't even need to make the choke after the cap screw circle if you cut a circular groove in the underside of the cap screw with two lead out port for the arms. This would also make the keep screw head seat lower.
 
I've heard commercial springs make for a much lighter trigger pull. I like the feel of my current trigger pull. But I guess you could bend the spring to increase the tension, making for an increased pull?
 
Solitary Cyclist said:
This is a picture of a similar spring to the one I fitted in my Navy, like I said it more or less fitted straight in with very few minutes 'fettling'.



The long leg has a small kink in it which isn't too clear in the picture. Hope it helps?
My Lyman 1851 Navy came with this spring already installed in it. I like it.
 
I have to be honest, I didn't notice a significant difference with my Navy. The reason for fitting it was I noticed a flaw in the original spring. It had cracked in the centre and was only being held together by the pressure of the screw!
 
Excellent. Thank you very much...I made mine out
of flat stock.. This is a good idea...
Wulf
 
I ordered a wire spring from Wolff a few days ago, and got it yesterday. It fit perfectly in my Uberti M1860. It does seem like it made the action smoother, and you're right, I don't really feel any change in trigger pull. It's a neat modification that should last a lot longer than the original flat spring.

Thanks for all the explanations, M.D. Now that I've seen the spring in person, I don't think I could make my own. But at 6 bucks, the manufactured spring isn't too bad on the wallet.
 

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