Wide brim hat

Discussion in 'Clothing' started by Ricochet, Jul 18, 2019.

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  1. Jul 18, 2019 #1

    Ricochet

    Ricochet

    Ricochet

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    I just received one of these from Crazy Crow. Anybody have any ideas of how to finish it with a sweatband and liner? It came really hard, I figured it would be kind of floppy. Do most people shape or trim the brim?
     
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  2. Jul 18, 2019 #2

    Grenadier1758

    Grenadier1758

    Grenadier1758

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    Picture?
    Catalog Number?

    Whether to simply shape the brim or trim it depends on what final configuration of hat you want to make.
     
  3. Jul 18, 2019 #3

    Ricochet

    Ricochet

    Ricochet

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    IMG_2024.JPG IMG_2023.JPG This is the one I got. Thanks. I just want it to go with my Kibler SMR, nothing in particular. Mainly want to figure out how to put a sweat band and liner in it. It just seems unfinished.
     
  4. Jul 18, 2019 #4

    NW Territory Woodsman

    NW Territory Woodsman

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    I have the exact same hat except in brown. I've read on here before that the hat has the same problem you mentioned with being stiff. Mine doesn't have that problem, but I'm guessing that steaming it with a tea kettle will help loosen it up and shape it. As for the liner and sweat band, I have nothing. My hats are good without them. All I put on them are a decorative head band and I'm good.

    One question though, what is the white ring in the back of the inside of the hat? Mine has it too.
     
  5. Jul 18, 2019 #5

    Ricochet

    Ricochet

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    Im not sure what it is but I figured it designated it as the back of the hat. I dunno? It does kind of fit the way it is right now so I may just leave it alone also. Thanks for the help
     
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  6. Jul 19, 2019 #6

    Grenadier1758

    Grenadier1758

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    The white circle more or less indicates the axis of the hat. I put the circle to the back of my hat.

    (Correction) Get a copy of "Sketchbook '76" by Robert Klinger which has instructions on making a cocked hat. It contains the instructions for a military cocked hat.

    Listen to the James Townsend video on cocked hats.
    https://www.bing.com/videos/search?...9C647A6D37DF565A20329C647A6D37DF&&FORM=VRDGAR

    Then select one or several of the videos on how to make a tricorn hat such as the following. She spends more time describing what needs to be done. https://www.bing.com/videos/search?...243256C6550D1268FEAA243256C6550D&&FORM=VRDGAR

    Maybe my description will help.

    Make a linen or cotton muslin band for the lining. Start off by making a tube to be about 2" wide. Using a thread that is the color if the hat, single stitch around the inside of the hat. The sewn edge should be sewn to the inside of the hat so the edge is up toward the crown of the hat. Fold the lining to the inside and tack that to hold the lining up in the crown.

    If you are making a cocked hat (tricorn), you need to decide where you want the front point. The back rise (fan) will be perpendicular to the axis of the hat. You want that fan to be as large as possible. Often the front point is trimmed to be about 1" less than the widest width of the back which will become the fan. The front point can be centered on the axis or the point can be set over the shooting eye. The offset point is seen most often in a military hat, Civilian hats have the point in the axis. When I am reenacting and wearing the cocked hat, I have the point over my right eye. Most of the videos have the point centered.

    On the rampart.JPG

    You can see the fan on my hat. You will be well served by sewing the edge lacing to protect the brim.

    The cockade is also quite important. A black cockade is British, a white cockade is French and a bucktail is appropriate for a colonial.
     
    Last edited: Jul 19, 2019
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  7. Jul 19, 2019 #7

    tenngun

    tenngun

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    Just a thought, about the time SMR were coming ‘in’ tricorns were going ‘out’.
    Being a blank you can go with several shape types.
     
  8. Jul 19, 2019 #8

    Ricochet

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    Thanks for the links Grenadier, I like the looks of the tricorn but I think I may leave the brim down. I would like for it to have a little "floppier" look tho. I think I may try and use steam to loosen it up some. Scared my youngest and embarrassed my oldest when I put it on and stuck a cob pipe in my mouth, love it!!
     
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  9. Jul 19, 2019 #9

    Grenadier1758

    Grenadier1758

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    Whether you want a cocked hat or a floppy hat or one side turned up, you will be more comfortable with a liner.
    Based on the liner in my cocked hat, you want a cotton (muslin or osnaburg) or linen strip that is as long as the circumference of the inside of your hat + 1" and 4" wide. On one edge you want a small hem to thread a small cotton string through, The string will be used to adjust the lining for a better fit of the hat. Finish hem the 4" ends to prevent fraying

    20190719_082141.jpg

    Starting at the 0 at the back of the hat using about 1/2" of fabric glue the lining to the inside of the crown all the way around. The lining can be pinned in place as the fabric glue dries.

    Lining.jpg
    You can see the glued fabric in the above picture. Then tack sew the liner to the crown of the hat at the brim. Fold the lining in and sew the lining to the crown of the hat at the brim. Adjust the string so the hat fits your head.

    As you can see the lining absorbs a lot of perspiration and will be more comfortable than the bare felt of the hat.

    A ribbon band about 1 to 2 " wide adds a lot to the look of the hat. The ribbon makes the hat look more finished.
     
  10. Jul 19, 2019 #10

    Grenadier1758

    Grenadier1758

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    My three wide brimmed hats:

    Military cocked hat with the front point over my left eye. Minimizes the interference of the hat when carrying my musket on the left shoulder. Military.jpg

    Civilian hat with the points even, No need for shoulder carry. You can see the hat band sewn to the crown below.

    civilian.jpg

    My original floppy hat. Its been starched a few times and still has some flop to it. Its been bleached by the sun and I misplaced my hat band. The sides can be held up to add the bucktail or a flaunty feather. or my pipe.
    Floppy01.jpg
    sun bleach effect.jpg
     
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  11. Jul 19, 2019 #11

    Ricochet

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    Perfect!! Thanks Grenadier!!
     
  12. Jul 21, 2019 #12

    Artificer

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    WOW! Best explanation and links I ever heard of on the subject. Wish I had that information decades ago!!

    Just wanted to go beyond hitting the "like" button as your post is so excellent!

    Gus
     
  13. Jul 22, 2019 #13

    Grenadier1758

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    Now, Gus, you have me blushing as red as my regimental coat.

    Personally, I think so many of your explanations add so much our enjoyment of this hobby. Put most of my posts to shame.
     
  14. Jul 24, 2019 #14

    Loyalist Dave

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    Seriously good, Mike . :ThankYou:

    The only thing at all that I can add, and it's a very small "tip". When I sew the white, wool binding onto the blank, having trimmed the brim to the proper width, I use "butterfly" clips to hold it in place. I remove them as I sew, and as I "cheat" and use a machine being careful to sew through to binding on both sides of the brim..., it makes keeping the binding from bunching so much easier. ;) You can seriously save a lot of money doing your own hat.
    BUTTERFLY CLIP.jpg
    LD
     
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  15. Jul 24, 2019 #15

    Grenadier1758

    Grenadier1758

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    Sometimes it takes a pattern. Go to the catalog section of Smoke-Fire News. In the patterns, there is a men's hat patters. I see plenty of other patterns.
     
  16. Jul 25, 2019 #16

    Jaeger

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    Whatever you do to shape and style your new hat, make sure you "process" your hat properly before putting on any cockades, etc. What I've done with my cocked hat (tricorn) is throw it on the ground …..somewhat grassy is preferable....and kick it repeatedly up and down a large area to dirty it up, soften that stiff felt, and give it the proper PATINA. This will make your hat look authentic and historically correct. That way you won't look so farbed up when you dress in your period clothing. Repeat as necessary.
     
  17. Aug 7, 2019 #17

    Ricochet

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    I sewed a muslin liner in with the drawstring and man oh man what a difference it makes with comfort!! Thanks Grenadier!! I put a 1.5" strip of beadwork on it for a band but I don't think Im likin that too much! I may opt for a "quieter" hatband like the ribbon that was suggested.
     
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  18. Aug 7, 2019 #18

    Boatncamp

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    What kind of glue to do you use to secure the fabric inside the hat?
    Thanks
     
  19. Aug 7, 2019 #19

    Ricochet

    Ricochet

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    I didn't use any glue. I just stitched a hem with a string in it, then stitched the other side to the start of the bowl then pushed it all inside. Hard to explain with words, here is a pic of the results. I didn't follow instructions well and forgot to add the extra inch to the length so I had to sort of patch it in. Works fine
     

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  20. Aug 7, 2019 #20

    Ricochet

    Ricochet

    Ricochet

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    Grenadier is spot on with the comfort. It feels really good now that I got a liner and adjusted it to my noggin.
     

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