Wide brim hat

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Ricochet

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I just received one of these from Crazy Crow. Anybody have any ideas of how to finish it with a sweatband and liner? It came really hard, I figured it would be kind of floppy. Do most people shape or trim the brim?
 

Ricochet

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IMG_2024.JPG IMG_2023.JPG This is the one I got. Thanks. I just want it to go with my Kibler SMR, nothing in particular. Mainly want to figure out how to put a sweat band and liner in it. It just seems unfinished.
 
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I have the exact same hat except in brown. I've read on here before that the hat has the same problem you mentioned with being stiff. Mine doesn't have that problem, but I'm guessing that steaming it with a tea kettle will help loosen it up and shape it. As for the liner and sweat band, I have nothing. My hats are good without them. All I put on them are a decorative head band and I'm good.

One question though, what is the white ring in the back of the inside of the hat? Mine has it too.
 

Grenadier1758

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The white circle more or less indicates the axis of the hat. I put the circle to the back of my hat.

(Correction) Get a copy of "Sketchbook '76" by Robert Klinger which has instructions on making a cocked hat. It contains the instructions for a military cocked hat.

Listen to the James Townsend video on cocked hats.
https://www.bing.com/videos/search?q=Revolutionary+War+Tricorn+Hats&&view=detail&mid=565A20329C647A6D37DF565A20329C647A6D37DF&&FORM=VRDGAR

Then select one or several of the videos on how to make a tricorn hat such as the following. She spends more time describing what needs to be done. https://www.bing.com/videos/search?q=Make+Your+Own+Tricorn+Hat&&view=detail&mid=1268FEAA243256C6550D1268FEAA243256C6550D&&FORM=VRDGAR

Maybe my description will help.

Make a linen or cotton muslin band for the lining. Start off by making a tube to be about 2" wide. Using a thread that is the color if the hat, single stitch around the inside of the hat. The sewn edge should be sewn to the inside of the hat so the edge is up toward the crown of the hat. Fold the lining to the inside and tack that to hold the lining up in the crown.

If you are making a cocked hat (tricorn), you need to decide where you want the front point. The back rise (fan) will be perpendicular to the axis of the hat. You want that fan to be as large as possible. Often the front point is trimmed to be about 1" less than the widest width of the back which will become the fan. The front point can be centered on the axis or the point can be set over the shooting eye. The offset point is seen most often in a military hat, Civilian hats have the point in the axis. When I am reenacting and wearing the cocked hat, I have the point over my right eye. Most of the videos have the point centered.

On the rampart.JPG

You can see the fan on my hat. You will be well served by sewing the edge lacing to protect the brim.

The cockade is also quite important. A black cockade is British, a white cockade is French and a bucktail is appropriate for a colonial.
 
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tenngun

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Just a thought, about the time SMR were coming ‘in’ tricorns were going ‘out’.
Being a blank you can go with several shape types.
 

Ricochet

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Thanks for the links Grenadier, I like the looks of the tricorn but I think I may leave the brim down. I would like for it to have a little "floppier" look tho. I think I may try and use steam to loosen it up some. Scared my youngest and embarrassed my oldest when I put it on and stuck a cob pipe in my mouth, love it!!
 

Grenadier1758

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Whether you want a cocked hat or a floppy hat or one side turned up, you will be more comfortable with a liner.
Based on the liner in my cocked hat, you want a cotton (muslin or osnaburg) or linen strip that is as long as the circumference of the inside of your hat + 1" and 4" wide. On one edge you want a small hem to thread a small cotton string through, The string will be used to adjust the lining for a better fit of the hat. Finish hem the 4" ends to prevent fraying

20190719_082141.jpg

Starting at the 0 at the back of the hat using about 1/2" of fabric glue the lining to the inside of the crown all the way around. The lining can be pinned in place as the fabric glue dries.

Lining.jpg
You can see the glued fabric in the above picture. Then tack sew the liner to the crown of the hat at the brim. Fold the lining in and sew the lining to the crown of the hat at the brim. Adjust the string so the hat fits your head.

As you can see the lining absorbs a lot of perspiration and will be more comfortable than the bare felt of the hat.

A ribbon band about 1 to 2 " wide adds a lot to the look of the hat. The ribbon makes the hat look more finished.
 

Grenadier1758

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My three wide brimmed hats:

Military cocked hat with the front point over my left eye. Minimizes the interference of the hat when carrying my musket on the left shoulder.Military.jpg

Civilian hat with the points even, No need for shoulder carry. You can see the hat band sewn to the crown below.

civilian.jpg

My original floppy hat. Its been starched a few times and still has some flop to it. Its been bleached by the sun and I misplaced my hat band. The sides can be held up to add the bucktail or a flaunty feather. or my pipe.
Floppy01.jpg
sun bleach effect.jpg
 

Artificer

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The white circle more or less indicates the axis of the hat. I put the circle to the back of my hat.

(Correction) Get a copy of "Sketchbook '76" by Robert Klinger which has instructions on making a cocked hat. It contains the instructions for a military cocked hat.

Listen to the James Townsend video on cocked hats.
https://www.bing.com/videos/search?q=Revolutionary+War+Tricorn+Hats&&view=detail&mid=565A20329C647A6D37DF565A20329C647A6D37DF&&FORM=VRDGAR

Then select one or several of the videos on how to make a tricorn hat such as the following. She spends more time describing what needs to be done. https://www.bing.com/videos/search?q=Make+Your+Own+Tricorn+Hat&&view=detail&mid=1268FEAA243256C6550D1268FEAA243256C6550D&&FORM=VRDGAR

Maybe my description will help.

Make a linen or cotton muslin band for the lining. Start off by making a tube to be about 2" wide. Using a thread that is the color if the hat, single stitch around the inside of the hat. The sewn edge should be sewn to the inside of the hat so the edge is up toward the crown of the hat. Fold the lining to the inside and tack that to hold the lining up in the crown.

If you are making a cocked hat (tricorn), you need to decide where you want the front point. The back rise (fan) will be perpendicular to the axis of the hat. You want that fan to be as large as possible. Often the front point is trimmed to be about 1" less than the widest width of the back which will become the fan. The front point can be centered on the axis or the point can be set over the shooting eye. The offset point is seen most often in a military hat, Civilian hats have the point in the axis. When I am reenacting and wearing the cocked hat, I have the point over my right eye. Most of the videos have the point centered.

View attachment 12322

You can see the fan on my hat. You will be well served by sewing the edge lacing to protect the brim.

The cockade is also quite important. A black cockade is British, a white cockade is French and a bucktail is appropriate for a colonial.
WOW! Best explanation and links I ever heard of on the subject. Wish I had that information decades ago!!

Just wanted to go beyond hitting the "like" button as your post is so excellent!

Gus
 

Grenadier1758

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Now, Gus, you have me blushing as red as my regimental coat.

Personally, I think so many of your explanations add so much our enjoyment of this hobby. Put most of my posts to shame.
 

Loyalist Dave

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Seriously good, Mike . :ThankYou:

The only thing at all that I can add, and it's a very small "tip". When I sew the white, wool binding onto the blank, having trimmed the brim to the proper width, I use "butterfly" clips to hold it in place. I remove them as I sew, and as I "cheat" and use a machine being careful to sew through to binding on both sides of the brim..., it makes keeping the binding from bunching so much easier. ;) You can seriously save a lot of money doing your own hat.
BUTTERFLY CLIP.jpg
LD
 

Grenadier1758

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Sometimes it takes a pattern. Go to the catalog section of Smoke-Fire News. In the patterns, there is a men's hat patters. I see plenty of other patterns.
 

Jaeger

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Whatever you do to shape and style your new hat, make sure you "process" your hat properly before putting on any cockades, etc. What I've done with my cocked hat (tricorn) is throw it on the ground …..somewhat grassy is preferable....and kick it repeatedly up and down a large area to dirty it up, soften that stiff felt, and give it the proper PATINA. This will make your hat look authentic and historically correct. That way you won't look so farbed up when you dress in your period clothing. Repeat as necessary.
 

Ricochet

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I sewed a muslin liner in with the drawstring and man oh man what a difference it makes with comfort!! Thanks Grenadier!! I put a 1.5" strip of beadwork on it for a band but I don't think Im likin that too much! I may opt for a "quieter" hatband like the ribbon that was suggested.
 

Boatncamp

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Whether you want a cocked hat or a floppy hat or one side turned up, you will be more comfortable with a liner.
Based on the liner in my cocked hat, you want a cotton (muslin or osnaburg) or linen strip that is as long as the circumference of the inside of your hat + 1" and 4" wide. On one edge you want a small hem to thread a small cotton string through, The string will be used to adjust the lining for a better fit of the hat. Finish hem the 4" ends to prevent fraying

View attachment 12338

Starting at the 0 at the back of the hat using about 1/2" of fabric glue the lining to the inside of the crown all the way around. The lining can be pinned in place as the fabric glue dries.

View attachment 12339
You can see the glued fabric in the above picture. Then tack sew the liner to the crown of the hat at the brim. Fold the lining in and sew the lining to the crown of the hat at the brim. Adjust the string so the hat fits your head.

As you can see the lining absorbs a lot of perspiration and will be more comfortable than the bare felt of the hat.

A ribbon band about 1 to 2 " wide adds a lot to the look of the hat. The ribbon makes the hat look more finished.
What kind of glue to do you use to secure the fabric inside the hat?
Thanks
 

Ricochet

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I didn't use any glue. I just stitched a hem with a string in it, then stitched the other side to the start of the bowl then pushed it all inside. Hard to explain with words, here is a pic of the results. I didn't follow instructions well and forgot to add the extra inch to the length so I had to sort of patch it in. Works fine
 

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