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I made the same mistake with my first build. The touch hole is not centered in the pan but it is high and toward the front edge of the pan. But the main thing is, it works! I built the rifle in 1983 and have shot it ever since then. I have replaced the liner once since the initial build. Ignition is still quick.
 
You could thread it, red Locktight a screw in it, grind the head off and re-drill. Start with a center drill of appropriate size. You could also, leave it, try it, you might like it.
Plug the hole with a screw, u will have to do some clean up work and dressing up on the inside and outside of the barrel. Make sure u secure the screw with red locktite or JB weld on the threads. Relocate the hole I try to stay several thds. above the pan so that the frizzen closes over the hole. Drill using a spotting drill bit to locate the hole then proceed using the correct bit for the threaded hole. A spoting drill is a very stout drill that will not walk or wobble .

Drill slowly to make sure the hole is going straight. I then put the tap in the drill chuck and turn by hand to install the threads. Hope this helps.
 
You could get your friend to put it in his milling machine and use an end mill to drill the hole in the right place for your liner, it would probably clean up your pilot hole.
 
Whichever choice you make, you won't have an ignition problem. Unless it bothers you a great deal all will be well with a bit of grinding, drilling, etc. I see no need to even consider moving the barrel back.
 
I converted a Pedersoli pistol to flint and the percussion drum hole was forward like that. I ended up making my own liner out of a bolt. After it was installed, I drill the touch hole at an angle and it is fine now.
 
I bought one with the lock inlet, never again, and yes, it was that low.

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Setting the barrel back would would not coincide with the rear of the pan, I don't believe. I would work the pan a bit after putting the liner in.. Just don't see anything to be too upset about.
I would buy new lugs and set the barrel back even if you have to make lugs with a dogleg.Hole already looks about tap drill size. If you leave it as is you’ll blame every misfire on it’s location and fret over the way it looks forever.
On the plus side you probably won’t have to put that nasty notch in the breech face to clear the drill and tap.
 
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Actually the lugs should be slotted any way. Right now they are center drilled. So I may be able to get it set back so it's perfect. I will say this, the hole I drilled, the back edge is super close to the breech plug. I am taking it to my friends house tomorrow to get his thoughts on it.
 
with it that low it will char the wood after a few shots, and get residue down into the lock and stock mortise area.
 
I made the same mistake with my first build. The touch hole is not centered in the pan but it is high and toward the front edge of the pan. But the main thing is, it works! I built the rifle in 1983 and have shot it ever since then. I have replaced the liner once since the initial build. Ignition is still quick.
I have used a thick brass wire around the lock to fill in the space and make it fit better. sand it flat after makes a nice custom inlay look after.
 
Well just got back from my friends house. We drilled, tapped and installed the liner. We cleaned up the inside ect.... Once I bevel the pan a little, it will be nearly perfect. He used to build so much, but he got burnt out doing it. I glad he agreed to help me out.
 

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Well just got back from my friends house. We drilled, tapped and installed the liner. We cleaned up the inside ect.... Once I bevel the pan a little, it will be nearly perfect. He used to build so much, but he got burnt out doing it. I glad he agreed to help me out.
Make sure to trim the inboard end of the liner flush with the bore.
 
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