Which powders for revolvers?

[MarineCorporal]

A bit of a follow up question: has anyone found success using 2f in .36 Colt revolvers? If so what charge.

 

[Carbon 6]

Thanks for the great replies. Excuse another dumb question but what is the difference between:

Blackhorn

Triple 7

Pyrodex

Goex

etc... etc?

Blackhorn 209 is not designed for revolvers. I would not use it in any traditional muzzleloader.


For revolver shooting Pyrodex P is my favorite because the fouling won't jam up the mechanism like Goex will. So you can shoot a lot more without having to stop and clean it.

 

[Grenadier1758]

A bit of a follow up question: has anyone found success using 2f in .36 Colt revolvers? If so what charge.

2f powder may be prone to more fouling,but it will send a ball down range just fine. Just be prepared to do some field cleaning between cylinder loadings.

 

[Erwan]

A bit of a follow up question: has anyone found success using 2f in .36 Colt revolvers? If so what charge.

For a Colt like a Navy 51 .36 caliber around 12/15 grains of 3Fg for target shooting at 25 yards... (Swiss powder)
Like saids Grenadier with 2Fg you are taking the way of cleaning between cylinders loaded and fired...

 

[Bad Karma]

You might want to give Goex Olde Eynsford a try. It was designed to compete with Swiss from what I’ve read. It’s certainly cheaper, and supports American jobs. I like it, but then I’ve only used Pyrodex and Triple 7, and one day I think I will have to try Swiss.

I have some on order. I’m sure it’ll be fine, I’ll just need to see which ones like the change in diet!

 

[Eutycus]

An interestng thread on differant powders, now which one would you recommend for combustible cartridges?

 

[Grumpa]

A bit of a follow up question: has anyone found success using 2f in .36 Colt revolvers? If so what charge.

For years. that's all I used in my Uberti Navy Colt (because that's what I had for my flintlocks). I just about filled the chamber, then rammed a .380 round ball over it and banged away. Most satisfying. Once in a while I would use a little less powder so I could fit a lubed wad between it and the ball. 3Fg is supposedly "cleaner" (less fouling) and a little more power. I picked up a can and will try it over the chronograph to see the difference - some nice day.
(And I haven't forgotten you, Rodwha…)

Richard/Grumpa

 

[ugly old guy]

FFFg (3F) or the "P" grade Pyrodex, is generally recommended by the revolver manufacturers, from what I've seen.

I've used both FFFg "Real" black powder, and "P" grade Pyrodex, with no problems. I've never used the pelletized powders for revolvers. When I had my revolvers the pellets (and revolver over-powder wads) had not been invented yet.
In a pinch, I have used FFg (2F) real black powder in my revolvers, (.36 and .44 caliber) again, without problems.

The Synthetic "Black Powders" like Pyrodex, are harder to ignite than "real" black powder.
I've never had a misfire using regular, not magnum caps when using Pyrodex in my revolvers.
(at least I don't think I had magnum caps ... It's been a few days since 1988/1989 when I had my last C&B revolver, so my memory on that may not be exact.)

I've heard (but have no way to confirm) that SWISS brand black powder is more ... "energetic" ... than other brands using the same granulation and quantity, so it will give a tad more velocity. (and thanks to physics, a tiny touch more recoil.)

If memory serves, I was loading 30 grains FFFg (3F) or "P" grade Pyrodex, (or FFg if that is all I had) in my steel framed revolvers, and 25 grains in my brass framed revolver. I always pressed enough (uncooked) Cream of Wheat or Malt-O-Meal on top of the ball to be even with the cylinder/chamber mouth.

When I had my revolvers, Pyrodex was the only synthetic black powder on the market. Or at least it was the only synthetic black powder available locally.
(I had them before the Internet had been invented, so there was no such thing as "Buying Online".)

 

[jamieorr]

I don't have a lot of experience (yet) but I used FFg in my Dragoon, just because I have it for my flintlock. It worked just fine - I've got operator problems to work out before I worry about my powder!

 

[Bad Karma]

UOG, Swiss, and I’m told, Olde Eynsford, are significantly more energetic than Goex, Elephant, Grafs, and KIK. According to my chronograph they will increase velocity substantially over same charge others. Sometimes as much as 200 FPS (need to double check this in my notebooks) in a .45 ruger.

 

[ugly old guy]

UOG, Swiss, and I’m told, Olde Eynsford, are significantly more energetic than Goex, Elephant, Grafs, and KIK. According to my chronograph they will increase velocity substantially over same charge others. Sometimes as much as 200 FPS (need to double check this in my notebooks) in a .45 ruger.

If I recall properly, 200 FPS is enough to make a noticeable difference in energy.
I've read that under 50 or so Ft Lbs difference one way or the 'tuther ain't enough to matter.

The "normal variations" from shot to shot (C&B or them new fangled "cartridges") can be that much or maybe a touch more. I hear tell the velocity and energy given in them loading manuals, are a five shot average.

 

[Bad Karma]

If I recall properly, 200 FPS is enough to make a noticeable difference in energy.
I've read that under 50 or so Ft Lbs difference one way or the 'tuther ain't enough to matter.

The "normal variations" from shot to shot (C&B or them new fangled "cartridges") can be that much or maybe a touch more. I hear tell the velocity and energy given in them loading manuals, are a five shot average.

You’re correct, however, extreme spread and standard deviation of the best powder is often very low if consistent measuring and loading techniques are followed. The best numbers are often less than ten FPS for a five shot string. Modern cartridge arms can be as good as a percentage of velocity, not so much in raw numbers.

 

[Marc Adamchek]

Whatever you choose, SHOOT BLACK!

 

[Darkgael]

Just a general note about real BP and subs.....not really applicable since the discussion is about use in revolvers.
The subs will work well enough in caplocks/percussion guns. Most of them will not work in flintlocks as their ignition temperature is too high.
The only substitute powder that I have found to light reliably in a flint gun is Alliant's Black MZ. It is also extremely easy to clean.
i use Swiss in my 1851 Navy snub nose .44.
Pete

 

[Stantheman86]

I used 2f in my big Colts like my Walker, and will use it in my Dragoon when I get it.

Powderinc makes it easy and cost effective to get real Black.

Using 777 and conicals peened the wedge slot in a Pietta .36 Navy , so maybe higher pressure curves ?

 

[Juice Jaws]

I must live a simple life, I use Goex 3F for everything. Works great in all my cap & ball revolvers. From my .31 cal to my big .66 musket works for all.

 

[Stantheman86]

I feel that 2f is a little easier on those 150+ year old designs especially when using "healthy" charges in the big horse guns.

The steel on the Uberti percussion revolvers is in that "way better than original but not SAAMI spec cartridge gun " quality. If I have to wipe the cylinder pin down after 18 shots , no big deal. That's about a "combat loadout" back in the period anyway, not like those guys were popping off 100 rounds.

I'd say 3f would be perfect for a .36.

 

[nkbj]

I used 2f in my big Colts like my Walker, and will use it in my Dragoon when I get it.

Powderinc makes it easy and cost effective to get real Black.

Using 777 and conicals peened the wedge slot in a Pietta .36 Navy , so maybe higher pressure curves ?

That's a real eye opener.

 

[Stantheman86]

I won't use subs in my wheel guns any more.

Luckily my Uberti survived the "proofing" but conicals + 777 beat up the Pietta pretty bad. Heavier bullet plus higher pressure curve. No good.

It's too easy to get real black at least in the USA. I can't speak to other nations availability.