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Which percussion caps to use?

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Hi folks. I'm as pilgrim as they come. First post too. Just got a Hawkin 50 and busy gathering the essentials. I see CCI #11 caps and also CCI Magnum caps. Which do I want to use and what is the reason for different ones?
Thanks, HJ
 
I have a hawken and use Pyrodex. The standard #11 have posed no issues. Main thing is to thuroughly clean the priming path no matter which powder you use.
 
Hatchet Jack,
I just bought a big batch of #11 and black powder. If you are having issues getting supplies just holler. I have enough to share and get you you smoking.
You're too kind TX-GRIZZ ! I just might buy some from you.
I'm going to check with a place that I buy my other reloading needs from tomorrow. I'm not sure if they stock any black powder consumables or not. I'll definitely stay in touch with you.
 

Yes, they're interchangeable.
I always wondered if they could slightly increase velocity but I never saw any evidence showing that they did,
except by preventing misfires that is. ;)

As I said, I am a newbie at this, but it seems that using the magnums may shorten the life of your nipple?
 
As I said, I am a newbie at this, but it seems that using the magnums may shorten the life of your nipple?

The magnum caps do produce higher temperatures and slightly more hot gases, but I don't know if they
cause more nipple erosion than the pressure and gas cutting that's caused by the powder charge itself.




On page 83 of Dave Ehrig's book "Muzzleloading for Deer & Turkey", he lists some information on percussion caps and primers.

#11 standard cap - 6.53 cc of gas at 3,024 degrees F when fired.

#11 magnum cap - 7.59 cc of gas at 3,717 degrees F when fired.

U.S. #2 musket cap - 14.36 cc of gas at 3,717 degrees F when fired.

#209 shotgun primer - 21.98 cc of gas at 3,024 degrees F when fired.

#200 rifle primer - 11.68 cc of gas at 3,024 degrees F when fired.
 
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The magnum caps do produce higher temperatures and slightly more hot gases, I don't know if they
cause more nipple erosion than the pressure and gas cutting that's caused by the powder charge itself.


On page 83 of Dave Ehrig's book "Muzzleloading for Deer & Turkey", he lists some information on percussion caps and primers.

#11 standard cap - 6.53 cc of gas at 3,024 degrees F when fired.

#11 magnum cap - 7.59 cc of gas at 3,717 degrees F when fired.

U.S. #2 musket cap - 14.36 cc of gas at 3,717 degrees F when fired.

#209 shotgun primer - 21.98 cc of gas at 3,024 degrees F when fired.

#200 rifle primer - 11.68 cc of gas at 3,024 degrees F when fired.
Thank you for taking the time to post this information Arcticap!
 
You should never have an issue with magnum caps.
Biggest killer is not completely cleaning every area. All powders can cause corrosion if left unattended too long. You can have the least expensive or the most expensive but corrosion doesn't care. Either can serve you well for a lifetime provided proper use and maintenance. Never shoot and clean later. Clean thuroughly immediately after shooting. Store lightly oiled.
I still shoot a Hawkens I built 42 years ago. Granted after about 30 years I finally shot out the original 45cal barrel. Just put a new 50cal on it and someone will be shooting it after I'm gone.
I still have a Rogers and spencer 44 revolver. It's about 50 years old. Still shoots and is accurate. Other than the Hawken barrel ive never had to change out any parts, not even a nipple. All attributed to maintenance and proper use. Don't fall for the heavy load craze. Shoot the minimum that provides best accuracy. Start with patched round ball. My experience with shooting 1: 48 twist, 290g hollow base with the same powder load for patched round ball caused it to walk right 6" at 100 yards but 20% less powder and elevation adjustment made them right on. More is not always better. Put science over brawn. Others will disagree but this thinking has provided longevity and performance for me.
 
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There was some talk some years ago that magnum caps would move the ball slightly before the powder started burning, I never could figure out how that conclusion was arrived at, but there was the talk.

Personally, I don't use them.
 
Hi folks. I'm as pilgrim as they come. First post too. Just got a Hawkin 50 and busy gathering the essentials. I see CCI #11 caps and also CCI Magnum caps. Which do I want to use and what is the reason for different ones?
Thanks, HJ
Use #10 on a turned down nipple with pyrodex on an new englander 50
never a misfire and i only have to swab maybe twice for 50 shots. I
buy em cause they are cheaper.....been doing this on an old uncle mikes nipple for the last twenty years...never had to replace it...
 
I use CCI magnums for all my guns including target shooting.

Here is a article that Bevel Brothers did on this subject a few years ago in Muzzle Blast.

Fleener
 

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There was some talk some years ago that magnum caps would move the ball slightly before the powder started burning, I never could figure out how that conclusion was arrived at, but there was the talk.

Personally, I don't use them.
I also have seen this claim so I decided to test it out.
I loaded a ball using a very thin cloth patch into one of my smoothbore pistols and measured the depth of the ball from the muzzle with a precision depth caliper.
I intentionally did not load a powder charge under the ball.
I then proceeded to fire 10 Magnum caps and measured the change in the depth of the ball after each "shot".

After firing the 10 caps and finding that the ball had not moved even one thousandth of an inch (.001) I decided the idea was totally wrong.

(Yes. After doing this experiment I removed the nipple and trickled some powder down into the flame hole, reinstalled the nipple and fired the ball into the dirt in my back yard.):)
 
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