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Wheel lock syndrome

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Joined
Nov 19, 2012
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Well, I'm finishing up my matchlock and looking for another challenge. I have a good piece of walnut and 5' of 1 1/4" diameter seamless steel stock with a .50 hole. Also have enough scrap metal around for the rest of the parts.

Like the looks of the Italian carbine attributed to John Alden. I would make a smoothbore to start and rifle it if it turns out well.

It would sure be nice to get my hands on a working wheel lock to study.

I should get to see a few in a week or two when I go to Stockholm for a few days. The Royal Armory should have a few to look at.
 
I think the tricky bit is finding a barrel that clears the end of the axle and it's pivot. You can't move the axle down without increasing the size of the wheel :thumbsup:
 
I will be making the barrel, but can't yet picture exactly what you mean.

What shape does the barrel need to be to clear the lock works?
 
I don't know what shape the barrel has to be :idunno:

I bought a c1580 lock someone else had tried to fit to the wrong barrel, destroying the lock in the process.

I tried it against a c1640 octagonal musket barrel and it didn't fit that.

Razpla/Bolek has now fixed the lock and I have a smaller 18th century octagonal to try it against when I get it back.

Have you noticed that wheel lock mechanisms always look much too big for the gun? There could be a reason for that.

If you haven't guessed, I am groping about in the dark here, but isn't that half the fun? :thumbsup:
 
The only plans I have seen so far are the Lauber plans that are posted online. Hopefully, I can use his barrel and lock as a guide for making my lock and barrel. I assume his worked?

I would appreciate any guidance anyone might have about barrel size compared to spark wheel size, etc.
 
I have been collecting pics and reading and studied Lauber way back and Bolek's extensive picture library. I think the main point is that the lock spindle and bearing/bridle are right below the pan, and the pan therefore has to be 'wide' (in the direction perpendicular to the lockplate) enough that those are not interfering with the barrel. Hence the lock may sit a longer way out the right and make the stock asymmetric in appearance, or if your blank was already cut you might need to build up the lock flat of the stock to suit.
 
The gun I'm looking at to copy, is asymmetrical. I'm building from a blank, so I can make the stock to suit the lock and barrel.

I plan on building the lock on an oversize plate and then shaping the plate to match the original.
 
This site has some dimensioned drawings as well:

http://feuerwaffen.ch/

A little extra to study never hurts.
 
Those in the Royal armory in Stockholm are mostly of Italian origin. They only have 3-4 out on display and the lighting is pretty dark in there.
 
It's too bad someone doesn't send you some pics
of locks. Then you can judge from them.

Wulf
 
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