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What size vent liner for my Colerain smoothbore Traditions Kentucky project

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I have a 54 cal smoothbore 7/8” octagon barrel coming from Scott for my Traditions Kentucky flintlock. I will be ordering barrel tenons, sight etc. from TOTW and will need to order a vent liner to install. I don’t need it to match the thread size of my old 50 cal barrel but am new to this and am wondering what size vent liner would be good to go with. I will have to order the taps as well so I don’t need something to match taps I already have.
thanks for the input.
 
Your barrel is on the light side. I’d suggest one of the 1/4 28 ampco liners. The permanent install veriety. These are fully threaded to the flat head. If it were mine I’d solder the lugs on the bottom of the barrel. Be certain to oil the bore after soldering.
 
Your barrel is on the light side. I’d suggest one of the 1/4 28 ampco liners. The permanent install veriety. These are fully threaded to the flat head. If it were mine I’d solder the lugs on the bottom of the barrel. Be certain to oil the bore after soldering.
Why solder on the lugs? Are you thinking the wall will be too thin once the dove tail is cut? I can cut a shallow dove tail in the flat like the original barrel has. As I now have a new traditions kit for this barrel I will be drilling the pins through the stock and not have to line up old holes so I have room to work with. Also where would I get that liner? I see Track has a 1/4 28 liner but it doesn’t say ampco.
 
Some folks are scary with dovetails I allways give conservative advise. Track has a 1/4 28 version of the white lightning. The ampco should be available from MBS. On tapered and flared barrels I allways solder the lugs nearest the waist. And I’ve hand cut a butt ton of dovetails. Either takes me the same amount of time. BJH
 
Some folks are scary with dovetails I allways give conservative advise. Track has a 1/4 28 version of the white lightning. The ampco should be available from MBS. On tapered and flared barrels I allways solder the lugs nearest the waist. And I’ve hand cut a butt ton of dovetails. Either takes me the same amount of time. BJH
My barrel will be octagon to the end of the stock, then round for the last 4” past the stock. Since the shipping to Canada from the US is crazy I want to try and get everything from one place in one order. I’m only ordering a front site, barrel lugs and maybe a side plate so not a big order. Do you just get the dove tail lugs and then just solder them on? I didn’t see a solder on specific lug at Track except the rounded ones for round barrels.
 
Track has this 1/4-28 vent liner that is threaded right to the top.
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Some folks are scary with dovetails I allways give conservative advice. Track has a 1/4 28 version of the white lightning. The ampco should be available from MBS. On tapered and flared barrels I allways solder the lugs nearest the waist. And I’ve hand cut a butt ton of dovetails. Either takes me the same amount of time. BJH
I like the idea of just hand filing in the dove tails,
 
Jim Chambers liners are excellent, but you need to order the tap and drill as well. I was trying to have you useing a hardware store available tap. Although metric stuff may be more available up there. I’ve never been north of the border.
 
Jim Chambers liners are excellent, but you need to order the tap and drill as well. I was trying to have you useing a hardware store available tap. Although metric stuff may be more available up there. I’ve never been north of the border.
That was my thought with the 1/4-28, pretty easy to get a drill and tap at local machine supply store.
 
I didn’t see a solder on specific lug at Track except the rounded ones for round barrels.

I think you could pretty easily form them. Especially if you use keys rather than pins.

You will have a barrel wall thickness of .1675 so while other experienced or more capable might successfully cut dovetails in it you might wish you hadn't tried. Only you know your skill level and barrels aren't cheap. You can practice on a scrap piece of barrel or actually any piece of metal before you go to work on it.
 
I think you could pretty easily form them. Especially if you use keys rather than pins.

You will have a barrel wall thickness of .1675 so while other experienced or more capable might successfully cut dovetails in it you might wish you hadn't tried. Only you know your skill level and barrels aren't cheap. You can practice on a scrap piece of barrel or actually any piece of metal before you go to work on it.
Good points. I’m a novice at cutting dove tails. I’ll be pinning them so will try forming some but will also order a couple dove tail ones from Track that I can just solder on if the formed ones don’t work out.
 
All my flintlocks have White lightening flash hole liners with the flash holes drilled out to 3/64" and then the edge chamfered by finger twisting a ¼" drill bit centered in the hole until the sharp edge is gone . White lightening liners can be removed when they are worn out , if that ever happens , by drilling out the hole and using an easy out ( screw extractor) to remove the rest of the liner . If they are not worn out why remove one ?
Parts which are removed / unscrewed for cleaning tend to work loose
 
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