what oil to use?

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azmntman

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Haha! Yeah Ohio’s weather is sometimes really unpredictable... might sweat one day.. the next need coat!

Kinda ran off topic so this be the last from me...Here in N AZ we can get 2 feet of snow and the next morning were all out in shorts and T-shirts shoveling. Or not. We do have the nasty -20 weather too on occasion then we wait till 10 or noon and bundle up and do it. Thing is in winter, like summer, there is not the humidity factor so our cold don't pierce ya like mid west cold.

Back to the topic....I would say what oil ya use is dependent on your climate and yer likes n dislikes and what ya believe when ya read the internet and especially what grandpa used. I used WD-40 for years and only went to Barricade per the praises sung here and I happened to see it for sale when I went for more WD-40. Others will tell ya WD-40 is a terrible rust preventative. There shade dont work.
 

S.Kenton

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Excellent response.. and yes very true! The climate should and would dictate what oil to use in your bore... Example; I used wd40 for a while, it worked for around a month then if I didn’t shoot the rifle, it showed signed of rust. I live in a very diverse climate, Ohio can be dry, it can be humid, I honestly think it can be both at the same time!!..lol anyhow, I went to fluid film, it’s more extreme than wd40 and works fine for me. Oh and it’s more expensive too!
 

Gator Weiss

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Canola oil is rapeseed oil Canadian Oil Low Acid, used for steam cylinder oil. I use it on black powder guns. Grocery store variety is good. Might be period correct having been used on steam engines.
 

smo

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I havent heard of the lighter fluid treatment, wouldn't just plain old rubbing alcohol work?

I ‘ve always been told rubbing alcohol contains high percentages of water... just what We don’t want.

Naptha= Zippo Lighter Fluid....
Which could very easily ruin the finish on the wood... depending on the finish of course.

I’ll stick too the denatured alcohol.... just don’t get it mixed up with your cough medicine !
 

Eutycus

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Through the years I've accumalated an array of differant gun oils. There's probably a dozen or so containers of oil in my cleaning kit. I tend to use whatever is apt to "come up". One of my methods was to use whichever container appeared to be the fullest or oldest. Most oils have an incredible shelf life but the older ones do need to be used up.
 

AlanG

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I ‘ve always been told rubbing alcohol contains high percentages of water... just what We don’t want.

Naptha= Zippo Lighter Fluid....
Which could very easily ruin the finish on the wood... depending on the finish of course.

I’ll stick too the denatured alcohol.... just don’t get it mixed up with your cough medicine !

Naptha is definitely not "Zippo Lighter Fluid"

denatured alcohol will ruin a finish faster than Naptha ever will

There is no reason to fear the water in rubbing alcohol. Water is the real cleaner here- the alcohol is just to dry things up and displace the moisture. It's how water based varnishes dry- the alcohol lifts the water out of the finish. I was told by a chemical engineer that alcohol surrounds water molecules- don't really know if that is accurate.
 

smo

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Well a blind hog will find an acorn now and then....

Naptha is definitely not "Zippo Lighter Fluid"

denatured alcohol will ruin a finish faster than Naptha ever will

There is no reason to fear the water in rubbing alcohol. Water is the real cleaner here- the alcohol is just to dry things up and displace the moisture. It's how water based varnishes dry- the alcohol lifts the water out of the finish. I was told by a chemical engineer that alcohol surrounds water molecules- don't really know if that is accurate.

I’ve used denatured alcohol for years without any issues.... as I said it depends on the finish on the wood.
Best case senecio is to keep all alcohol, thinners and lighter fluids away from the wood finish.

Water maybe the “real cleaner” here, But I would tend too believe that depends on what your using for patch lube....
I don’t recall “water “ alone removing any oil based lube or wax based lube very well.

If your successful using it , keep it up!

You are right about the alcohol “drying things up” , that’s the only reason I use it.

I was told by a registered Redneck that alcohol evaporates the water....

It seems too work to me.


As far as the water based varnishes...
I wouldn’t know , I was only in the painting trade for about 40 years.

But we used very little of anything water based in the Industrial Trade.
But we did use denatured alcohol too wipe the metal surface prior to coating it.

In the Nuclear Power Industry, it seems to be good enough at removing grease,dirt,oils and even water that it was the one chemical approved for this purpose...

Use what you want , but I’ll stick with what “I’ve” had success with.
 
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AlanG

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Jeez, is it me or does every thread on here culminate with a "I been doing it for 40 years" or a MSDS posting! Ha!

I really don't want to hijack this thread, or get into a pedantic discussion- but...

Most all of your post kind of proves my point.

One can post all of the MSDS's one wants, but I can assure you, when you go to a hardware store and buy a can of naptha, it is not the same as Zippo lighter fluid. You can also buy lacquer thinner or boiled linseed oil at a hardware store and you are not getting real boiled linseed oil, nor lacquer thinner that's the same as you get from a finish supply company.

I don't know why anyone would use Naptha in a muzzleloader, but your post implied that it ruins finishes but denatured is better in this regard- which it certainly is not. Denatured has long been used as a controlled varnish stripper- say if you need to strip a finish down but don't want to destroy writing or a label underneath the finish.

The "painting" and Industrial coating trade" has been using W. Based finishes for a long time now, and in fact some of the toughest finishes used today start as a water based product.

I'm not sure what value a Nuclear nor "Redneck" endorsement is. Nothing wrong with using Denat as a cleaner, most industries are using products similar to Dawn now for degreasing, which is superior.

I never implied that you shouldn't use Denat- only that your reasons or statements in your post were incorrect.

Nor did I say I used rubbing alcohol, in fact I didn't even say what I was using as it was irrelevant to my reasons for posting.
 

smo

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Like I said it works for me , your mileage may vary.

But maybe you should look at what products are made from before posting what they are “not” made of...
Have a great day.
 

azmntman

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Well, all my guns that I use my oil in are rust free. You cannot say that any of my guns that you use your oil in are rust free, so mine is by far, factually proven as the best.

End of discussion....like Dad always said "do as I do"
 
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Look at the top of your “oil” can. If it’s not clean and dry, but has a gummy brown sticky varnish residue, and you’ve got to use vice grips to open it !, why would you expect to lube your gun with it ? I especially wouldn’t lubricant the lock or trigger mechanism with it.

My go-to lube is Marvel Mystery Oil ! Marvel has been around since 1923, so it must be good!
 

FishDFly

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"My go-to lube is Marvel Mystery Oil ! Marvel has been around since 1923, so it must be good!"

Why, folks would really like to know?

After reading six (6) pages to be honest, Zonie's recommendation makes the most sense.

Seems Engineers have a bit of knowledge.
 

Eutycus

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....Gummy brown sticky varnish residue that requires pliers to open? Makes one wonder just what sort of product you've been using and how long you've had it. My point was to use older containers of oil up before they ever got into that condition, which thankfully it never has happened.
 
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