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That's the only way to fix that gap. Just make sure that your fill piece is from the same piece of wood, and runs the same direction as the piece you're repairing.
A curl from a plane cut from the left or right side should fill it nicely.
It will be very delicate, so make sure it is well glued, and be careful when re inletting.
Use stainable wood glue, NOT epoxy. The glue joint will be so thin, it won't show.
Epoxy WILL!
 
Thanks for all the help, guys. This place is a wealth of knowledge, so much so that I was very happy to become a supporting member. I assume that I should probably do the tang repair as a later step, when I won't be removing the barrel as much?

Since last update I have side plate inlet, lock with internals inlet, ram rod pipes inlet, underlugs set and inlet and worked on butt plate more. I was looking at butt plate and realized that I did not shave off enough arch on the stock and that was the reason for the gap on the heel. It's tight now... I realized that the kit did not come with a set trigger, so I called Chambers and ordered one, so waiting on that.

I have to run to hardware store and get some new drill bits, tap and countersink and then it's about time to do the scary stuff... Many holes to drill!!!
 
That's the only way to fix that gap. Just make sure that your fill piece is from the same piece of wood, and runs the same direction as the piece you're repairing.
A curl from a plane cut from the left or right side should fill it nicely.
It will be very delicate, so make sure it is well glued, and be careful when re inletting.
Use stainable wood glue, NOT epoxy. The glue joint will be so thin, it won't show.
Epoxy WILL!

Probably through fault of my own, I have had wood glue fail over a period of time. I use wood glue on shop projects with success. I have a Zouave that is splintering around the breech. This post has me convinced to try the wood glue again.
Yep, time for this old goat to see what is available.
 
I have saved the dust rom sanding and mixed it with clear epoxy, filled the void and dressed down.
Please avoid doing this with maple. The fix will not stain and looks like wood filler regardless of what you do.
A better fix is adding an over-sized piece of wood and re-inletting the area.
 
This is the method I am going to do. Thanks.
You might consider staining the mating faces before gluing - This should minimize the appearance of the glue line. Just make certain a water- or alcohol-based stain is used (no oil-based or multipurpose finish/stain).
 
I am planning on using Chambers. I will have to look at the can when I get home and see what is base is.

Thanks again!
No aquafortis? Seems a shame to use anything else on maple...
However, I do like the Chambers oil finish.
 
If you use good wood glue, nothing holds wood better. Titebond is my favorite. The wood will split before the bond gives way.
Also, Chambers finish is my choice. But they don't make stains. I believe they supply LMF which is also my choice of stains, used with or without Ferric Nitrate. AF is a pain in the a**.
 
No aquafortis? Seems a shame to use anything else on maple...
However, I do like the Chambers oil finish.

Well I was considering that and maybe I should go that route, it is a very nicely figured piece of wood... Do you think I will loose a significant amount of shown curl with Chambers stain vs aquafortis. I ordered it with the rifle prior to really digging into the finishing part. Also there seems to be a bit more technique to aquafortis that I'm bit wary of.
 
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Can't tell you about Chambers stain vs AF, but I used LMF stain on a previous gun, and FN crystals on this one, and, think the FN gun has more pop to the curl. More so than a red maple stock in the gun before that which was done with AF. It could also be due to the neutralizing agent too. I used household ammonia on the AF gun, and strongly concentrated lye on the AF gun. The lye seemed to give it a bit of an orange cast, which I wanted, or at least like. Nothing needed on the stained gun. It could be the wood, or any number of factors, but to me, the FN / lye gun has the most pop and definition to the curl.
 
Might have to give that another thought then... On a side note, I'm having a hard time finding a decent gouge/curved chisel. I've bought a couple from Woodcraft and they were not what I was looking for. What do you guys recommend? Size and make would be helpful...

Thanks again!
 
Probably through fault of my own, I have had wood glue fail over a period of time. I use wood glue on shop projects with success. I have a Zouave that is splintering around the breech. This post has me convinced to try the wood glue again.
Yep, time for this old goat to see what is available.
I have watched my gunsmith repair broken and cracked stocks. He used a 2 part epoxy that he gets from Brownell. He cleans the area and blows it dry with compressed air. Then he put the mixture in the crack and gently blows it in the crack. when convienced it is covering the inside of the cack good he clamps the crack with a small c clamp and cleans the excess from the stock and allows to dry over night. I've seen him put stocks that were completely broken in half back together and they worked.
 
I'm having a hard time finding a decent gouge/curved chisel. ... What do you guys recommend? Size and make would be helpful...
After trying some others and even making my own, I ended up using Swiss made Pfeil chisels. Just go to Amazon and search "Pfeil wood carving tools" and find exactly what you need for what you are doing. ;)
 
Looks good, anxious to see your tang repair as that is a very important area to get right. A build worth keeping us posted on for sure and a fabulous kit choice.

Also for chisel's I make 90% of mine, very easy to do with good piano wire. Being able to make your own chisel is a very useful skill to have. However check out track of the wolf, I do know their chisel variety is vast.
 
I have watched my gunsmith repair broken and cracked stocks. He used a 2 part epoxy that he gets from Brownell. He cleans the area and blows it dry with compressed air. Then he put the mixture in the crack and gently blows it in the crack. when convienced it is covering the inside of the cack good he clamps the crack with a small c clamp and cleans the excess from the stock and allows to dry over night. I've seen him put stocks that were completely broken in half back together and they worked.

Yep, sounds like the method I use from Brownells
 
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