what do you use when swabbing between shots?

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Patent breaches are not a curse , they work and are historically correct in many cases . All you have to do with a patent breach is to learn how to clean it .
I have found Schuetzen powder to be a real fouling problem ,especially in hot weather , not like Goex or Swiss , I would recommend using Schuetzen fffg rather than ffg powder in any rifle . I only use it because it is all I can get .
I have had to go from a 7-1 Balistol / water mix to a 5-1 mix as the weather has warmed up in our South Pacific Spring .
I use a one size smaller button jag and loose fitting military type 4"X2" cleaning patches ,very slightly dampened with a spray of water .I find this pulls the fouling out , not pushes it down . I don't bother using a dry patch follow up as I don't think the water has touched the bore on the way out as the patch is so covered in crud and dry patches have no place in any barrel , they just get stuck . This is not cleaning , just conditioning the bore for the next shot by preventing a build up of fowling .
If you are having ignition problems with your flinter I'd recommend you check the flash hole is not too small , break the sharp outside edge of the flash hole with a slight chamfer using a larger size drill bit , just turned with your fingers and use a pricker to make sure the hole is clear after loading each shot .
BTW I wash all my cleaning patches after each use and peg them out on the washing line to dry , I do this to try to recycle patches and I found it makes them fluffier and they pull more crud out .
Every time you remove a screw, with the exception of a nipple, from your breach area you increase wear on the threads , risk cross threading or not screwing it all the way in and it can blow out ,Over the years I have seen so called clean out screws , percussion drums , nipples and flash hole liners all come loose , fortunately without injury to any one .
 

TDM

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Well, all the discussions on patient style breaches and residue in the chamber kinda got me worried or at least curious. So I just removed the bolster clean out set screw from my 42 year old Renegade. I don’t recall ever taking it out before, if I did it was probably when I did the initial cleaning when it was new. I sprayed a little Kroil on it but didn’t wait to long to try the removal. With the correct size turn screw it turned with only moderate pressure and screwed right out. I probed around with a pipe cleaner and all was good, very clean, only light oil. So either I’m doing something right or I’m very lucky. I’ll take either. I promise not to remove it again for another 42 years. ;)
 
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Sun City

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I put a 3x3 cleaning patch in my mouth for a bit....wrap it around a brass brush and down she goes! Just enough moisture to reduce the bore of carbon without getting the breech wet and not ignite!!
 
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I put a 3x3 cleaning patch in my mouth for a bit....wrap it around a brass brush and down she goes! Just enough moisture to reduce the bore of carbon without getting the breech wet and not ignite!!
Just a word to the newbies about this: Use An Undersized Brush when wrapping a patch around it!
I had Two people bring me their rifles with a 'Patched Brush' that had broke off inside the barrel. One had stripped the threads so I could not get hold of it and the other he used one of the Cheap brushes and it pulled off the end - had to shoot both of them put.

I too had wrapped brushes and thought "Been doing it for years, this wont happen to me....", but as Murphy's Law dictates, about a month later I got one stuck in my .45 Kentucky pistol!! It broke the wooded ramrod when trying to pull it out! Lucky for me there was just enough rod to put in a vise and one hard Pull yanked it out.
....I don't do it anymore
 
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At the range, i swab every 4-5 shots. I use a wet patch of 90% alcohol. In the field, I carry a small container with a half dozen alcohol wetted patches. I rarely use them.
 
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Comment about hydrogen peroxide. It is a reactive solution. Not being a chemist, I assume that that extra Oxygen is what is reacting. I am also assuming that the reaction is oxidation. The barrel is steel. Oxidation of steel is rust.
I am am further guessing that the beneficial effect of H2O2 is due to the fact that peroxide is, basically, water.
 
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