what do you use when swabbing between shots?

[Trooper]

Just wondering about what fluid you use to swab between shots.
How damp or wet are your swabbing patches?

 

[Phil Coffins]

Just water, and just damp. But I rarely need to swab during a match.

 

[Trooper]

I've tried everything from window cleaner to rubbing alcohol, I find that if a wet patch is too wet, I get ignition issues. I was under the impression that an alcohol-based swabbing agent will evaporate before loading the next charge. I'll dial down the moisture and wait a bit

 

[Freedom]

Napa water soluble cutting/grinding oil mixed with water ...5:1 ratio, water/oil But I seldom swab a muzzleloader because the patched round ball swabs the barrel at every loading.

If I do "have" to swab my muzzleloader it is swabbed after loading (gasp!!!) so I do not clog my ignition. However, swabbing is almost never needed if I load with a thick leather over-powder wad and a wet patch.

 

[Trooper]

I thought that as well, but Loading gets progressively worse the more I shoot between shots.

 

[Rod Man]

I am kinda with Mr. @Phil Coffins, only time I really swab between shots is when trying to dial in a zero. Then I'll go pretty wet and swab her dry. I have used water in the past and ballistol. They work about the same actually, except the ballistol smells.

 

[springfield art]

(Joke) Between shots I usually use a gulp of beer....

 

[Larry (Omaha)]

Just wondering about what fluid you use to swab between shots.
How damp or wet are your swabbing patches?

Water soluble oil, hydrogen peroxide, alcohol, Lysol concentrate and water. One wet, but not dripping cleaning patch, down and up the bore with the tip of the rod stopping 1" to 1.5” short of the breech plug. I do not swab between shots, but after 5 to ten shots.
Larry

 

[Grenadier1758]

Most of my shooting takes place at the gun club in matches or as part of a Woods Walk.

So much depends on whether I have muzzle loader with a chambered breech or one with a traditional breech. Since I can't reach all the way to the terminus of a chambered breech with my standard jag, I have to be very wary of pushing fouling into the chamber. This makes the case for the reduced diameter jag that has enough grip on the patch to slide over the fouling on the downward to the breech first pass and will bunch up to pull the fouling out. I use either a flannel sheet or baby diaper cloth for cleaning patches and the swab between shots. The other method is to mark the ramrod about 3/4" from the top of the chambered breech. Dampen the patch and wipe to stop just above the chambered breech. Minimal fouling will be pushed into the gap between the end of the jag and the top of the chambered breech. I use rubbing alcohol to dampen the patch. Rubbing alcohol evaporates quicky and leaves a dry barrel to be loaded. Once down to the breech and flip the patch over to make one more pass. I have less of an issue with the traditional breech, but I do have to know what the surface of the breech looks like. I had to make a notch in the face of one rifle and that can become a fouling trap. A dental flossing brush will reach through the touch hole and clean out that fouling. My traditionally breeched rifles and smooth bored guns are flint locks. Therefore, the picking of the touch hole after the wipe keeps the touch hole clear of fouling.

The other swabbing technique is to not wipe between shots. One loads the powder and the patched ball. Then use a wet patch with whatever cleaning solution you want to use. All will clean out the fouling. Use the jag with the wet patch to push the patched ball to the breech. Fouling remains on top of the ball and is not pushed into the chambered breech or touch hole.

During Woods Walks, I am usually shooting my King's Musket with paper cartridges. The opportunity for wiping between shots doesn't happen much. I do have a ball of tow on a linen string that I will spit on after a few shots and I feel that the fouling is starting to make loading more difficult. There is enough heat in the barrel to dry the spit, so I don't dampen the load.

 

[The Crisco Kid]

Spit.

 

[tenngun]

As Crisco Kid says spit. I pop a patch in my mouth, so it’s et then squeeze it dry. I use one patch over and over. After tge first pass spit on it and squeeze dry with fingers and thumb.
After a few passes water to rinse then squeeze dry.
I don’t get ignition problems from just damp
On a hunt I use a fresh patch each load

 

[1BadDart]

I'm still working on the process for the .40 that I built for 25 yard off hand matches that will start in a couple months. Right now, I mist one patch (barely damp) with the solution I use to clean the barrel, swab the barrel, then swab it again with a dry patch, then reload.

 

[Sidney Smith]

I use isopropyl alcohol 91% by volume, mixed with maybe a cap full of Murphys oil soap. Been using this mix for decades. Works great and dries in the bore fast so doesn't affect ignition too much.

 

[Rock Home Isle]

Just wondering about what fluid you use to swab between shots.
How damp or wet are your swabbing patches?

Wet patch, with moose milk…the .32 usually needs to be swabbed about every 5 to 6 shots, if it hot and humid, it may need to be swabbed every 2 or 3 shots.

My .45 calibres and above, usually do not need to be swabbed, unless hot and humid.

 

[Togo]

I rarely swab during matches.

 

[maillemaker]

I use "Possum Piss" - 1:1:1 isopropyl alcohol, murphy's oil soap, and hydrogen peroxide.

Though I have been told that hydrogen peroxide breaks down over time and turns into just water. Since I made my batch up 10 years ago, I imagine what I really have is 1:1:1 alcohol, MOS, and water.

Anyway I squirt a bit on a patch and then squeeze the patch to distribute it throughout the patch. It is damp but not dripping. I don't want to risk fouling the powder. It helps that my flinter has a chambered breech so the patch never goes down to where the powder ends up.

 

[1BadDart]

I use "Possum Piss" - 1:1:1 isopropyl alcohol, murphy's oil soap, and hydrogen peroxide.

Though I have been told that hydrogen peroxide breaks down over time and turns into just water. Since I made my batch up 10 years ago, I imagine what I really have is 1:1:1 alcohol, MOS, and water.

Anyway I squirt a bit on a patch and then squeeze the patch to distribute it throughout the patch. It is damp but not dripping. I don't want to risk fouling the powder. It helps that my flinter has a chambered breech so the patch never goes down to where the powder ends up.

Mine is a variation, the exception being 1/2 part Murphy's oil soap.

 

[ADK Bigfoot]

I wipe between each shot at the range to maintain consistent bore condition from shot to shot. Damp patch with my homemade Moose Milk: NAPA water-soluble cutting oil, water, and a dash of Murphy's Oil Soap for flavor. Damp patch, dry patch, load. Repeat. Don't forget to wipe the pan between shots, also.

ADK Bigfoot

 

[EC121]

Hydrogen peroxide is H2O2 so over time it degrades into H2O.

From Wikipedia: Hydrogen peroxide is a reactive oxygen species and the simplest peroxide, a compound having an oxygen-oxygen single bond. It decomposes slowly when exposed to light, and rapidly in the presence of organic or reactive compounds. It is typically stored with a stabilizer in a weakly acidic solution in a dark bottle to block light.

 

[Grimord]

When I find it necessary to swab the bore after a few shots I use a flannel patch on an under sized jag damp with denatured alcohol (no water). Once down and out. The alcohol dries super fast, so no issues with ignition on the next shot.