What do you as a builder use to finish a stock?

Discussion in 'The Gun Builder's Bench' started by Larry (Omaha), Jan 27, 2019.

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  1. Jan 27, 2019 #1

    Larry (Omaha)

    Larry (Omaha)

    Larry (Omaha)

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    The forum has lots of experienced builders. I am asking anyone who has finished more than 5 muzzleloaders what they do for final stock finish? This question is in reference to application and or process after staining.
    Flintlocklar
     
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  2. Jan 27, 2019 #2

    dave_person

    dave_person

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    Hi,
    I use polymerized tung oil made by Sutherland-Welles. Let me clarify something before someone brings up some other tung oil or Formby's tung oil(-like) finish. Polymerized tung oil is heat treated to speed up the drying process. For example, Tru-Oil is polymerized linseed oil, which is why it dries much faster than boiled or raw linseed oil. I first apply 2 coats of SW tung oil thinned 50% with mineral spirits as a sealer. I let the sealer dry for 2-3 days. Then I apply unthinned oil with a brush, let it sit for 10 minutes, and then wipe away all excess oil. I apply one coat per day until I reach the finish level I want. I used to hand rub in the final coats but I find using a rag to wipe excess oil off is better.

    dave
     
  3. Jan 27, 2019 #3

    Comfortably_Numb

    Comfortably_Numb

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    I use the Formby's tung oil(-like) finish. Before that I used Chamber's finish which I believe is tung oil(-like) also.
     
  4. Jan 27, 2019 #4

    Zonie

    Zonie

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    I use Birchwood Casey Tru-Oil.

    I like a deep finished look on my guns so I often apply over 10 coats before I'm finished.
    If I was just looking at protecting the wood the job could probably be done with 3 or 4 coats but I wouldn't use less than 3.
     
  5. Jan 27, 2019 #5

    Tom A Hawk

    Tom A Hawk

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    Tru-Oil on the Lancaster. Linspeed on the Hawken. I wanted to get away from the high gloss of Tru-oil and tried True Coat and Original Oil Finish, both from TOW. Maybe I'm impatient, but the the last two never seem to dry.
    upload_2019-1-27_18-57-21.png
     
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  6. Jan 28, 2019 #6

    30coupe

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    That's what I do too. You can also cut down some of the gloss with BC Stock Sheen and finish with their gunstock wax. Sorry I don't qualify on the 5 muzzleloader builds, but I have done many modern arms this way. As Zonie says, it will look like you are looking down into the wood rather than just having a finish on top of it.
     
  7. Jan 28, 2019 #7

    dave_person

    dave_person

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    Hi,
    Here are some gun finished as I describe (more than 5):
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    dave
     
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  8. Jan 28, 2019 #8

    Tom A Hawk

    Tom A Hawk

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    Outstanding wire inlay and scroll work.
     
  9. Jan 28, 2019 #9

    Darkhorse

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    I use Chambers original oil finish.
     
  10. Jan 28, 2019 #10

    Stophel

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    I have three basic finish types that I will use, depending upon what I want.
    Grain filled with seedlac/shellac with an oil varnish (that I make or modify) as a top coat. I believe that this is how a large majority of 18th century American guns were finished, though I honestly don't like fooling with the varnish top coat. This keeps the grain clear and bright, not darkening the wood like linseed oil will do.
    100_0012.jpg


    Boiled linseed oil. And I mean really boiled linseed oil, with lead carbonate and aged turpentine (no, I don't boil the oil with turpentine in it... I've learned that lesson!). I use thinner applications at first leaving nothing on the surface, and for the final few applications, I use the really thick stuff, leaving it stand on the surface until ALMOST dry, then cut it off with burlap... which is a LOT of hard work, and is the real hand rubbing in a "hand rubbed linseed oil finish". It requires a lot of elbow grease and patience, but to my eye, it generally looks the best, and is my favorite finish.
    M94.jpg
    Skinny Virginny 015_800x597.jpg

    Grain filled with oil varnish with oil varnish top coat. Makes a much darker stock than filling the grain with lac, and takes much longer to dry, of course.
    GAcheek.JPG

    Lately, instead of making it from scratch, I've been cheating with oil varnish, using Tried and True "Varnish oil" with some more rosin dissolved in turpentine added in (the "Varnish Oil" is too soft for a top coat as it is). This has actually been working pretty well for me.
     
    Last edited: Jan 28, 2019
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  11. Jan 28, 2019 #11

    Rifleman1776

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    Dave, that second one looks familiar. :rolleyes:
     
  12. Jan 28, 2019 #12

    Metalshaper

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    I use "Old Durable" finish

    Spar varnish, linseed oil and turpentine.. 1:1:1 each

    fist coat -heavy soaking coat, let set 30 minutes.. wipe off with clean towel set aside for 4 hours
    second coat- not as heavy but wet, let set 30 minutes/wipe and set aside 8 hours
    third- wipe on wet with fingers, let set 30/wipe set aside 16 hrs
    keep building layers, thinner than the one before and twice the drying time..
    I end up hand rubbing in the last 3-4 coats and have weeks between he last two or so.. ( i'm not in a hurry )

    not the exact directions for application but it works!

    Respect Always
    Metalshaper/Jonathan
     
  13. Jan 28, 2019 #13

    Metalshaper

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    An Old Durable Stock Finish

    Fred Miller

    The finish and method of application is old. Just when it originated, I don't know. Is it period correct? The ingredients (except for the substitution of marine spar rather than just a spar varnish) are period correct, and certainly the method is as well. If you're looking for a "quick and dirty" finish, then read no further. This finish can be applied to finished wood, as long as the finish is an oil base and was not waxed.

    Before applying any finish, the stock should be free of dirt and grime, should be "silk" smooth, and should have been stained with an oil based stain. I will assume that you know how to properly prepare the stock, including lifting the grain twice, etc., before applying the stain.

    In a glass jar that has a tight lid, mix equal volumes of any marine spar varnish and boiled linseed oil. Add 1/2 volume turpentine. You don't need to mix up a lot of finish, as a small jar will finish more than one rifle. Cut a number of 10"x10" or larger squares of cloth from old 100% white tee-shirts. You'll use these to wipe down the stock. Wipe down the stock with a clean soft white cloth. All applications of the finish are thin, using just enough to cover well. The first 2 or 3 coats should include all inlet areas of the stock. The purpose is to protect it from moisture.

    Apply the first coat with your fingers, firmly rubbing the finish into the wood with the grain. Let the stock set for 2 hours. Take one of the folded tee-shirt squares and with the grain, wipe down the stock gently but firmly. Let set for at least 12 hours. Repeat this with 2 more applications. All of the inlet areas of the stock should now be sealed, and application of finish in these areas is complete.

    Apply a 4th coat of finish as above, except let it dry for 2 days. Continue the process until you have a smooth, deep, glossy finish. YES! Originals did have a glossy finish! Applying an additional coat of finish every 6 to 12 months will enhance and maintain its durability and beauty indefinitely.

    ©1997 Fred Miller

    this is what Fred Wrote

    Respect Always
    Metalshaper/Jonathan
     
  14. Jan 28, 2019 #14

    Col. Batguano

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    Time to cure for each coat varies greatly with the humidity. Right now, with it going to be -35F this week the indoor humidity will be about 2%. In the summer, about 60%. Much longer drying times then.
     
  15. Jan 29, 2019 #15

    Headhunter

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    Laurel Mountain Forge Permayln seems to work out great for me. You can go gloss, Semi-gloss, or matte with the same finish using a different final application technique. Hard as nails when cured.

    HH
     
  16. Jan 29, 2019 #16

    Poboy

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    Dave, I'll give you $300 for the lot shipped!

    Seriously, those are some SERIOUSLY fine weapons. Hmmmmm....someday....( a guy can dream can't he?):rolleyes:
     
  17. Feb 3, 2019 #17

    sawyer04

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    How to finish a smoke pole is really like the kind of car a person wants. I grew up with an ancestry of hunters and trappers, I think all of us has that instilled gene lurking in our bones.
    My great grand father used linseed oil on his stocks. He wasn't to concerned about pretty, but function. I haven't built that many weapons, I have built 10 rifles from scratch and a bunch of kit guns for prospective hunters. I still use steel wool, 3M pads with multiple layers of linseed oil until the wood stops feathering.
    I remember the first high power I got my hands on when I was in the army (M14). I thought that was the cats meow. We kept those rifles clean and used linseed oil on the stock.
    I know the perfectionist will flare up, and why not, the afore mentioned fire arm is a beautiful piece, as many are, I suppose I am still back in the old days, solid plain good shooting and field ready rifle.
     
  18. Feb 4, 2019 #18

    tenngun

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    I like Track’s ‘original oil finish’ acts like ‘tru Coat’ that wakegon bay, once a day for a week once a week for a month, 12 coats in all
     
  19. Feb 12, 2019 #19

    medbill

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    This is a combo of Chambers with a final coat of truoil if I remember right. I was very happy with it.
     

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  20. Feb 13, 2019 #20

    old ugly

    old ugly

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    When mixing marine spar varnish, boiled linseed oil, and turpentine, are you using a gloss finish varnish?
    Thanks
    Tom
    Ou
     

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