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What Can I Do To My GPR?

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nickleback

32 Cal.
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I've got a stock 50 Cal. flintlock GPR. She's a great shooter and I love it; took a nice doe with it this season. I replaced the rear sight with a fixed sight and filed the front sight down to sight it in with 80 gr. of 3F and a round ball some time back. I'm to the point where I'm get'n a bit hooked on shooting the rifle more then I have in the past. What are some refinements can I do to it and still stay pretty much stock; trigger (can't really adjust the adj. screw anymore to get a real nice set trigger pull), lock, whatever. And if I want too, are there any better/custom "drop-in" locks that might be used? Thanks for your thoughts.
 
For about 50 bucks you can replace the triggers with a "Deerslayer" trigger from Davis.

For 150'ish bucks you can replace the factory lock with an RPL from L&R.

In general I wouldn't recommend replacing functioning parts with these because if what you have is working the minimal difference in performance (which you may not even notice) is hardly worth the cost compared to the overall value of the rifle.

If it goes "boom" when you pull the trigger consistently, in particular, a new lock is not going to improve much that you will notice.

While the trigger replacement is as close to drop in as you are going to find, they may still need to be tuned a touch.

If your current triggers are functional and not worn they too may be able to be tuned (there is more to tuning triggers than the simple screw on the exterior).

You may be able to get decent/better performance from the triggers by a simple trip to a local gunshop for a "tune up".

But it is your money...
 
I agree on the Davis triggers. The company sezz they're for TCs, but they're a drop-in for the GPR too. Best money I've ever spent on a muzzleloader.

My favorite mod for the GPR is to do some stock slimming. It just seems "chunky" to me somehow. I cut the cheek piece to around half the thickness, which aids in sight alignment with my physique, plust I generally slim the forend and get rid of the "fish belly" or slight rounding of the bottom of the butt stock. Really cleans up the lines nicely while shaving close to half a pound by the time I'm through.

I also like browning versus bluing, so I do that as well. Pretty straight forward with LMF browning. There are links to it at the top of the gun building section.
 
About the biggest single improvement you can make is replacing the stock trigger with the Davis Deerslayer, but as has been pointed out, someone who is skilled and familiar with working on this kind of trigger and lock mechanism can improve and smooth up the function with some judicious polishing.
 
I don't think you are going to improve on the lock. The only major mod I did on mine was the Davis triggers so let me tell you about them. The set trigger on the deerslayer is so light and crisp that it has allowed me to make some incredible shots in the field. A few trophy class animals would not be on my wall without that trigger. The amount of confidence it gives me in the field has improved my hunting range by about 30%.

The other minor thing I did was to file the sides of the blade front sight inwards by about 30% and that takes the chunkiness out of it. I use that with the primitive fixed rear sight. It also improves accuracy. The slight gap between the blade and the outside of the notch on the rear sight doesn't seem to matter too much.

Others have played witht he size of the touch hole and gained some improvement with faster ignition by enlarging it.

If you only do one thing, start with the trigger.
 
Nice job. With that load, what is the max of the yards you are shooting at a deer?

Robert
 
If you use a round ball your best seved to get as close as you can. Some folfs have killed out to 150 yards and more,but the ballistic of a ball suck. So folks set some upper limit and argue about it all day. Here in the ozarks I never toke a shot at more then 50 yards. I would trust any of my rifle guns to 100, but never see a clear shot in the woods that far. Most have been a lot closer. Shot placement counts more then power. Find you a range you can take a quick shot at and still keep it on a paper plate, set this as your max.
 
I think I got a bit lost and replied to your link. Ooops. That front sight looks great. Would definitely give that a try.
 
I like this flat top style better than the semi buckhorn I had on it before the rebuild. I also back cut the front blade a bit and rounded just the top corner so all I see is the very tip almost like a post and ball sight.
 
Look at track of the wolf or Pecatonica at their full length curly maple upgrade stocks.
 
I just took my locks & triggers apart, polished them & they all did fine. I shot well over 5000 rounds out of one of them. Never had a issue with all factory parts..... YOu hae to be careful of What you polish & how much, as you can incorporate problems if not careful.
One of my GPR's I had some Lyman peeps on & it would shoot 1" cloverleaf groups of 3 at 100 yards off a bench with sand bags. So the accuracy is there with them, if you do your part.

Keith Lisle

PS: Remember, you can easily put another $900. in it & it is still a used $300 rifle. Some put allot in them then get upset when it will not sell for more later on. KEEP the old parts... So when/if you decide to sell it later, you can go back to stock & sell it for the going rates, plus sell the other parts & get more of your $ back.
 
I put a set of Lyman peep sights on my GPR, it really helped my old eyes and my groups got smaller!
 
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