Weighing (lead) balls

[1BadDart]

I started last night and finished this AM, almost 2 1/2 boxes of Hornady .395". I used two sets of older Ohaus made beam scales, one being a Lyman D5 and the other a three poise RCBS 505. The scales were zeroed with 93 grains of test weights. The balls were segregated, <93.1, 93.1, 93.2, 93.3, 93.4 and >93.4. All were from the same lot number, the last box contained most of the less than 93.1 grain balls, but also most of the greater than 93.4 balls. My plan is to shoot the 93.1-2's together and the 93.3-4's together. The rest will either be clean bore shots or crappie jigs.

<93.1 - 12
93.1 - 18
93.2 - 61
93.3 - 79
93.4 - 53
>93.4 - 26

 

[bigstick6017555]

I very highly doubt you would see a 3/10 of a grain difference in lead ball weight show up on a target with all of the numerous other variables in a flintlock or caplock rifle.

 

[Grimord]

I have found that if the weight of the balls varies more than 3 grains from the average weight, they will produce flyers on a target. This has happened far too often for me to discount this factor. I now weigh all my cast balls and in 45 caliber and under I toss back into the pot any balls that vary more than a 1/2 grain from the average. With 50 caliber and above, I toss back the balls that vary more than 1 grain from the average.

 

[necchi]

I weigh ball also. But for years here it's always been a topic of lively discussion, from guy's that swear there is no difference, to folks that'll hold them all to absolute exactness.
In the past I have found Hornady to have the most severe spread within single box's, which helped prompt me into casting my own, but that's another story.

My "acceptable" tolerance with 50 and 54 ball is +/- .5 of average. So all the ball are within a 1grn spread.
I understand the smaller size/weight of the 40cal ball so a lower tolerance is reasonable.
With your examples @1BadDart , I'd be comfortable with all being within 93.0 to 93.5 or 93.1-93.6,, a .5grn spread.
I always toss the lightweights,,

 

[1BadDart]

I'm considering ordering a mold, already have plenty of lead and a bottom pour lee hot pot that I use making crappie jigs.

 

[SDSmlf]

I started last night and finished this AM, almost 2 1/2 boxes of Hornady .395". I used two sets of older Ohaus made beam scales, one being a Lyman D5 and the other a three poise RCBS 505. The scales were zeroed with 93 grains of test weights. The balls were segregated, <93.1, 93.1, 93.2, 93.3, 93.4 and >93.4. All were from the same lot number, the last box contained most of the less than 93.1 grain balls, but also most of the greater than 93.4 balls. My plan is to shoot the 93.1-2's together and the 93.3-4's together. The rest will either be clean bore shots or crappie jigs.

<93.1 - 12
93.1 - 18
93.2 - 61
93.3 - 79
93.4 - 53
>93.4 - 26

I have posted the following before.

I have been repeatedly disappointed by swaged roundballs, sometimes by diameter variations, other times by weight differences. Others claim these differences do not matter as long as they can hammer the patched roundball down the bore accuracy will be outstanding.

As an example of what I have found, here are photographs of the weigh-in of two different balls from a single box of purchased swaged roundballs. Found nearly 10 grains of weigh variation, though less than .0005” in diameter variation. Have seen worse, but don’t have photographic evidence. Personally have found that when everything is perfect and using weighed balls will have groups in the one inch range at 100 yards. Mix in the known goofballs from the same box and in the 3-4” range or more. Have seen significant weight variations in both red and yellow boxes of purchased swaged roundballs.

If weight and diameter variations don’t negatively impact accuracy for you, guess you are good to go. Otherwise you may want to check diameter and weight. Up to you.

 

[necchi]

I'm considering ordering a mold, already have plenty of lead and a bottom pour lee hot pot that I use making crappie jigs.

There is a learning curve to casting ball, but with my tolerances as described, I'm getting a cull rate that's only around 15%
If you've already got the gear, I'd encourage you to jump in with both feet.

 

[hanshi]

I cast everything I load (round ball). I inspect visually and don't have that many culls. They still shoot fine from my rifle. But you have to understand that I shoot about as well as your spinster aunt, Sophy.

 

[Rock Home Isle]

There was a time I weighed every RB and put them into groups. Once a group was used up, I’d re-sight the gun and start on another group.

These days I hunt, my focus now is Minute of Kill Zone…lot less pressure.

 

[1BadDart]

About the only thing I hunt anymore is something to eat. LOL

 

[flconch53]

I guess it is whatever trips your trigger. If you are a serious bench rest shooter I can see the point . If you just stand on your hind legs and shoot for fun not so much. Also not much point in smoothbores.

 

[oldwood]

If you got the time ta do weighing , and segregating cast balls , go for it. Think though , the mid calibers are more prone to variance inaccuracies than say .62 and up. .40 and lower are less prone to weight difference. Careful casting practices , w/Lee molds , and good soft lead , lend to accuracy , more than anything. I don't shoot competition any longer , so will put up with an occasional 2" variance at the 60 Yd. distance where I post my target. The small 6" iron targets don't seem to care if they get hit on the center or edge.

 

[mushka]

We all have requirements in our shooting. Mine aren't that stringent any longer. I just load and shoot whether it is a store bought or casted by myself ball. Weighing the ball would be a lot of time I could be spending doing something more productive for me. I'd just say do what you are comfortable in doing. Personally I like less tedium these days.

 

[1BadDart]

Thanks guys.

For now, I'm wanting to control as many variables as possible, currently all of my shooting is from a bench. Later on, when I start shooting off hand I may find it doesn't make any difference.

A couple months ago I was gifted some muzzleloading items from a gentleman that has passed. In the box was a bag of .395" balls with a store brand label. So, yesterday I sat down and started weighing them, after about 10 balls I dumped them all back in the bag. They were all over the place, well over 2 grains difference.

I ordered a Lee 6 cavity mold and will start casting some balls when it gets here.

 

[gunpa]

I tested some of my freshly cast balls on my Father's Day gift ( also part of my gift) just today. Good times were had. Today was the Dixie Hawkens turn. Even got a 100 yard hit. Dumb luck.

 

[ohio ramrod]

I doubt that weight variances less than 1/2 grain total would be noticable. I reject any more than minus one grain. I assume that those over norm are caused by not having the mold completely tight when casting allowing for s slightly over sized ball, light balls caused by an air pocket

 

[Sidney Smith]

Unless you are an extreme competition shooter, who demands the utmost in accuracy, weighing balls really is a waste of time. I've never weighed balls and I'm not about to start. I base my accuracy levels on whether or not it's acceptable to kill game. For that reason extreme pinpoint accuracy is just not required for my needs..

 

[ZUG]

I'm with Sidney on this. If you want the most accuracy out of your firearms, then by all means weigh your ammo. But I do not compete anymore - I shoot for fun so "minute of tin can, water jug, 8 - 9-ring is good enough for me

 

[Frontier's]

wasting your time, sorting them out like that.

 

[ord sgt]

The only ball that I put on a scale was the minies that I cast while a member of the N-SSA. I don't worry so much about the weight of the roundballs that I use at the rifle range.