Wedge stuck on an 1851 Navy

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Bought a used 1851 Navy about 3 weeks ago and finally got it out to the range for 9-10 shots yesterday. When I went to diassemble it to clean it, I could not get the wedge out to remove the barrel. I have watched a few YouTube videos about how guys pop it out with clothespins and other wood objects, but nothing helped. The old Infantryman in me says get a bigger hammer, but I don't want to damage the gun. Tried punching back in some more and it wouldn't move. The screw is loose. Thought about squirting Ballistol on the screw hole. Am I doing something wrong? Seems like such an easy task to punch the wedge out.
 

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The first time I took the wedge out of my Pedersoli shotgun, it took a lot of hammer. As careful as I was I did end up dinging the wedge up a little and put a couple marks in the stock. It’s nothing noticeable, but goes to show you that they build them to be really stiff. Good luck. After the first time it should come out a little easier each time.
 

45D

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A hard plastic-face hammer (a machinest's hammer) is an excellent "wedge popper"!! It won't hurt the metal or finish. Your wedge may be bent and if so, you'll really have to smack it hard! And, more than likely you may need to use the loading lever to remove the barrel assy.
A hammer like this one.
20220103_183343.jpg
 
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@Clovis6, the screw is in the frame to keep the wedge in the frame after the wedge has been pushed out enough to allow the arbor to be backed out of the frame. @45D has the bast solution for moving the wedge with a plastic faced hammer. A wedge removal tool of brass or copper will likely have to be made. I don't know of any commercially made wedge removal tools.

It appears that your wedge tip is flush with the frame. A brass wedge removal tool will be needed to push the wedge through the frame.
 

45D

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Grenadier 1758 is right, looked at your post again and the wedge looks flush on the off side. You couldn't drive the wedge in further probably because it is bent.
Your revolver is from 2010 so it may have arbor issues (it appears to be a Pietta). It may have gotten that way while you were shooting and that's how it got bent.

Mike
 
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Grenadier 1758 is right, looked at your post again and the wedge looks flush on the off side. You couldn't drive the wedge in further probably because it is bent.
Your revolver is from 2010 so it may have arbor issues (it appears to be a Pietta). It may have gotten that way while you were shooting and that's how it got bent.

Mike

It is a Pietta. The wedge is flush on the right. Is there any way I can ge the barrel off with the wedge still in this position? Not familiar with the whole arbor issue, but it appears to be a bit of a longstanding problem. Is there any hope for this thing or should I just write it off?
 

45D

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It is a Pietta. The wedge is flush on the right. Is there any way I can ge the barrel off with the wedge still in this position? Not familiar with the whole arbor issue, but it appears to be a bit of a longstanding problem. Is there any hope for this thing or should I just write it off?

It will be fine. Lay the revolver down with the barrel supported on a screwdriver handle (to give room for the wedge to move out some) Use a small punch on the wedge and a sharp blow with a metal hammer ( careful not to damage the barrel assy ). This should free up the wedge so you can remove it.

Mike
 
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write it off and send it to me for proper disposal.... ;) most good hardware stores [ and maybe hobby shops] have brass bar stock in 12 inch pieces. i got a piece ..090 thick and 1/2 inch wide for a few bucks. round off the edges a bit on gun side. . try not to use anything steel.
 
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Rich44

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I am probably guilty of making it sound to simple. Get brass like shown in first post and the tapper should be weighty. Just one solid tap, metal to metal, is what gives the shock to break it loose. Without the shock wave you will need to beat on it much more.
 
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Have you tried giving it a few taps first in the *other* direction (i.e. pushing it in/tightening)?

That should both free it up be easier to move out, and, give you something more to tap against to get it out.

The suggestions to use a brass punch are also good -- a small brass punch with a 1-pound dead blow hammer will cure this issue every time.

If the wedge spring is sticking up enough to block the wedge from moving out, use a small wood dowel to push down on it, while you tap it out. This does require a bit of gymnastics with your hands, but use one hand to hold both the brass punch and wood dowel... you'll figure it out!
 

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It is a Pietta. The wedge is flush on the right. Is there any way I can ge the barrel off with the wedge still in this position? Not familiar with the whole arbor issue, but it appears to be a bit of a longstanding problem. Is there any hope for this thing or should I just write it off?
Mine had the same problem, thats why it was given to me.
I removed the wedge with a drift, then sanded the forward edge of the wedge until in moved in and out.
 

ZUG

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Small round brass punches will only distort with your wedge being stuck fast. Either make a rectangular brass drift that will fit INTO the barrels wedge recess (with clearance) which will distribute the hammer force over the entire wedge's end and use a bigger hammer or use a metal punch and dress the wedge's end after you get it out. Be careful not to deform the end of that brass rectangle punch or you will get that stuck in the wedge opening also.
 
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A hard plastic-face hammer (a machinest's hammer) is an excellent "wedge popper"!! It won't hurt the metal or finish. Your wedge may be bent and if so, you'll really have to smack it hard! And, more than likely you may need to use the loading lever to remove the barrel assy.
A hammer like this one.View attachment 145472
Nice workshop, BTW!
 
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In photo #1 there looks to be a small gap that the wedge spring can go down yet. Take an eye glass screw driver and see if it will go down. If so wedge it down and drive the wedge out like the many suggestions you've gotten ....good luck WALLY
 
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