WAX OR WHAT?

[flashpoint]

Two questions:
1. Just finished a hickory Tomahawk handle with a "Gunstock" colored stain. I was going to put a satin Urethane coat on it then rub it off as a protective coat. Then it occurred to me that maybe I should use a furniture or floor paste wax instead. Does anyone have any thoughts or recommendations on this?

2. The Tomahawks head fits fairly tight on the pole. However, there are a few very thin gaps that cause the head to wobble ever so slightly. To remedy this, I was going to hammer a few metal pins up and between the head and handle to make the head really tight. I am hesitant to sand the pole to make a perfect fit as I can see myself taking too much wood off; hence the pin idea. Finally I will add a 1-1/2' wide thick leather collar right beneath the head by either lacing it with artificial sinew or gluing it and finishing with Brass tacks around the edges. Your input is much appreciated. Thank you. F.P.

 

[tenngun]

I oil mine with gun stock oil

 

[rafterob]

I Use BLO and then wax.

 

[Larry (Omaha)]

Two questions:
1. Just finished a hickory Tomahawk handle with a "Gunstock" colored stain. I was going to put a satin Urethane coat on it then rub it off as a protective coat. Then it occurred to me that maybe I should use a furniture or floor paste wax instead. Does anyone have any thoughts or recommendations on this?

2. The Tomahawks head fits fairly tight on the pole. However, there are a few very thin gaps that cause the head to wobble ever so slightly. To remedy this, I was going to hammer a few metal pins up and between the head and handle to make the head really tight. I am hesitant to sand the pole to make a perfect fit as I can see myself taking too much wood off; hence the pin idea. Finally I will add a 1-1/2' wide thick leather collar right beneath the head by either lacing it with artificial sinew or gluing it and finishing with Brass tacks around the edges. Your input is much appreciated. Thank you. F.P.

Good old linseed oil. You want a little shine, then use tung oil.
Larry

 

[Stykbow]

Another vote for BLO. If you slide the head on and drown it in BLO the wood will swell and lock it in place. You can still get it off, but it makes a nice tight fit.

 

[smo]

I don’t use anything on my hawk handles….
They usually don’t last that long if you throw one much..

 

[Phil Coffins]

I also use nothing, mine is the right hand hawk.
all 143 by Oliver Sudden, on Flickr

 

[flashpoint]

Thank you everyone for the info. I will try the BLO and depending on that, I might wax.

 

[Art Caputo]

I use a Lancaster/maple stain, then TOTW Original Oil.

 

[Robby]

Bees wax and a heat gun will give it a good finish, floor wax will do as well. I wouldn't fix the head, a good friction fit is all you need. When you get a bad hit, like a handle first, the head slipping off its roost dissipates energy upon impact giving you a bit more handle life.
Robby

 

[Flintlock]

I take it this hawk is going to hang on a wall. A usable hawk should soak up some water or moistue to keep the head tight in very dry (winter) conditions. Putting leather under it to keep it tight will only become a problem when replacing the handle after use. Putting leather and junk also makes them much harder to slip in or out of a belt or carrier when you want to use it as well as making them look like imported tourist items. It's wood, make a new handle if this one doesn't fit well.

 

[flashpoint]

I use a Lancaster/maple stain, then TOTW Original Oil.
View attachment 100199

Hey!, That's the same one I have. I hope mine turns out as nice as yours. Thanks.

 

[flashpoint]

I take it this hawk is going to hang on a wall. A usable hawk should soak up some water or moistue to keep the head tight in very dry (winter) conditions. Putting leather under it to keep it tight will only become a problem when replacing the handle after use. Putting leather and junk also makes them much harder to slip in or out of a belt or carrier when you want to use it as well as making them look like imported tourist items. It's wood, make a new handle if this one doesn't fit well.

THanks Flintlock. never thought of that. It's more for field use as in getting through a Deer's pelvic bone. I definitely don't want it to look like some tourist thing. Appreciate the comments. FP!

Hey!, That's the same one I have. I hope mine turns out as nice as yours. Thanks.

BTW, whatt did you use to darken the head? THanks.

 

[flashpoint]

Bees wax and a heat gun will give it a good finish, floor wax will do as well. I wouldn't fix the head, a good friction fit is all you need. When you get a bad hit, like a handle first, the head slipping off its roost dissipates energy upon impact giving you a bit more handle life.
Robby

Good point. Thanks.

 

[Art Caputo]

BTW, whatt did you use to darken the head? THanks.

The TOTW Iroquois head is nice to work with. Sharpen it before treating. After draw filing/some smoothing with ScotchBrite, treated the head with brass darkening solution, then wrapped the head for couple of days in white wine vinegar soaked paper towel. Carded excess/loose rust off to desired appearance with maroon ScorchBriite then did a bit of re-darkening areas with the darkening solution. Oiled with 3-in One, heated into pores with a heat gun. Done.

 

[Rifleman1776]

I don’t use anything on my hawk handles….
They usually don’t last that long if you throw one much..

Same here. Use nekkid (the handle, not you ) and have extras on hand.

 

[smo]

I’ve done both….

 

[Stykbow]

I’ve done both….

TMI…TMI!!!

 

[flashpoint]

The TOTW Iroquois head is nice to work with. Sharpen it before treating. After draw filing/some smoothing with ScotchBrite, treated the head with brass darkening solution, then wrapped the head for couple of days in white wine vinegar soaked paper towel. Carded excess/loose rust off to desired appearance with maroon ScorchBriite then did a bit of re-darkening areas with the darkening solution. Oiled with 3-in One, heated into pores with a heat gun. Done.
View attachment 100302

Thanks for the info Art. Live and learn.