What oil do you use/recommend?Reading replies I see a difference in opinion and most likely experience. Some apparently need a drop or two of dawn, others not, some get flash rust others not. Perhaps it has more to do with your patch lube and/or your storage oil. Using a certain grease patch could cause a buildup after a few shots, perhaps needing dawn and/or boiling water.
Your storage oil, does it fill and stay in the valleys of your BP guns. As you know the steel is quite a bit from the modern gun barrels, modern gun barrels don’t rust nearly as much, the valleys are closed. Some modern oils will penetrate the valleys and some will stay in them better than others. It’s not how much oil you put on, it’s which kind.
That's one I have not tried.Ps, in a pinch, baby wipes work too.
Spot on. Water chemistry that a person has can make the difference.The flash rust issue seems to depend on the source of the water. Some of the purified and treated water supplies have additives such as chlorine and fluorine for purification. Some well systems have other trace minerals that can lead to the appearance of flash rust. Distilled water or rain water will have the least chemicals. Some steels in the gun barrels react to the chemicals in the water. Be aware of what happens when you clean your firearm and always finish with a good rust inhibiting lubricant.
There are many cleaning solutions and methods out there. Whichever one you use that ends up with a clean patch and you lubricate the steel before storing is the one that works.
The use of boiling water for cleaning indeed works. In theory the higher heat will loosen the burnt powder and oils better than warm water and a bit of any grease cutting soap. Dry the barrel after the washing to get rid of residual water and salts that may still be in the barrel. Use some form of water displacement to remove traces that dry patches don't reach. Finally use a rust inhibitor for storage.
The same here..I hear of flash rust on here..yeah..then after the boiling water i let it evaporate..thats why i use boiling water.Then moose milk it after completly cool then add bore butter..guns sit for years ..nothing but cleanI've used boiling water with a cap full of Murphys oil soap. Have used this method for as long as I've been shooting muzzle loaders and am not changing. Flash rust is a myth using boiling water. I've never seen it happen.
Thanks. I found it quite by chance. I will be 59 in a couple weeks. I use baby wipes a lot. Most are used in camp since we have to haul our own water usually, and I like being clean. Too, I'm alergic to a lot of perfumes (always thought it was the soaps) all the adult cleaning towels I've tried I react to. I stay with the Huggies unscented.That's one I have not tried.
However - even my grandkids are now beyond the stage where baby wipes are a staple of everyday life. Good idea though!....
I can remember when I was a child when grandmother ran short on commercial soap she sent us out to pull leaves out of the yucca plants - pull them out so we got the white tender stuff from the bottom -Sorta makes you wonder how much soap, alcohol, and WD40 they brought with them to the mountains. I am not making jest, just writing that there had to be an easier way when all you had was water, cloth, and whale/bear oil.
Well soap makes water wetter and is the reason it will de-solve more and faster than water alone. Warm water heats metal and causes it to expand which in turn enlarges the pores in the steel. So warm soapy water does translate to a deeper cleaning power than water alone.The temp of the water makes zero difference in how it cleans. Boiling water will evaporate fast and at times cause a flash rust depending on the chemistry of your particular barrel steel. Otherwise water is water. You don’t need soap or any additives unless it makes ya happy. Windex, windshield wiper fluid, moose milk, and 1000 other concoctions all have one thing in common. They are all 95% water.