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Want to purchase an Uberti 1851 Navy, but have some questions

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I've never taken to foolish spending, and found many years ago that there isn't any simple "tuning" I couldn't do to a cap and ball revolver to improve its' action. To me, spending a few hundred $ to have someone do a little twiddling is sucker bait.
There is a myriad of Youtube videos that go into various easy DIY tune-up procedures, and you can get springs a lot cheaper yourself. Careful use of a Dremel tool is what is required.
Cabelas revolvers on sale comprise most of my collection. Money saved was used for molds, tools and accessories.
yeah.......but there is something to be said for having an expert do it as part of the purchase price. also having an experienced and well known person in western shooting is a positive thing. i don't have tools for making all of the modulations that they made to it. He, (Jim Finch) did not try to over sell me on the muzzle crown or reboring the cylinders. he said unless i was competing in civil war reinactment events and needed as accurate a pistol out to 50 yards, i would see zero benefit to it....he said the save my money and just go with the standard factory specs.
i don't feel suckered.
i started my adult life as a mechanic and autobody man so i have skills, but they don't always translate to a specific genre, like gunsmithing. the gun i got feels great, is perfectly indexed and has a 2.5 lb trigger pull, upgraded nipples, springs, perfectly aligned arbor. i usually am "mr buyer's regret". i have zero regret, except for the fact that i can get caps, but that's a different problem.
i recommend longhunt.com if you want one of these. i'll probably get the colt army version next year if i have the cash.
 
you are on the right track don't fool around go to the pros. I have a Uberti that is off to the smith right now with a laundry list of problems including, but not limited to a wedge that will not go in, a barrel that almost did not come off and three nipples that must be torqued down to 1/4 inch ounce of stripping the threads., and, of course, being a Uberti a short arbor. He said he would give those nipples the old college try but if he can't it is off to Lodgewood Mfg to have done what ever is needed and have all replaced with nipples that fit RWS caps.
Hang in there pardner, the fun is worth the wait ...and cost.
Bunk
 
oh, besides all the stuff they did which was, i also got anti-cap jamming sytem, which is like a little wall just behind the cylinder. it looks authentic, does not look like it was an add-on. they did a good job and said that was their biggest seller. i saw a few videos on anti cap suck solutions....mostly sanding/filing of the hammer, but it's not 100% reliable. the anticap jamming system blocks it all and like i said, does not look out of place. i think that was worth it. $75.
also, they only sell the Taylor version, which from what i've heard is better finish quality all around. they sell for $100 more than the uberti's, so the actual gunsmithing charge is about $100 for everything, since the new nippples are about $75, and the hand spring is maybe $20, so with all that considered you are getting a lot for your money. yes you could watch days of youtube videos buy i just want one that is ready to shoot out of the box. i can watch videos on maintenance or how to adjust indexing, etc if i have problems, but i rather focus my time on casting bullets and making paper cartridges.
  1. Hone, and rework all internal parts
  2. Replace springs with high quality U.S. springs (Lee's "Gunslinger Spring Kit")
  3. Rebuild and harden single tooth hand.
  4. Rebuild and harden bolt cam as necessary
  5. Drill frame for Coil type Hand Spring and install.
  6. Correct Bolt engagement and position
  7. Rework sear and hammer for crisp 2 1/2lb. trigger pull
  8. Re-cut forcing cone to 11 degrees
  9. Square and smooth barrel face
  10. Correct Cylinder gap for fouling
  11. Correct timing and advance or delay bolt drop as necessary
  12. Install Slix-Shot Stainless Steel Nipples
  13. Correct Arbor Length in Frame
 
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Thanks for this thread! I’ve been on the fence about long hunt. I will be ordering one!
 
oh, besides all the stuff they did which was, i also got anti-cap jamming sytem, which is like a little wall just behind the cylinder. it looks authentic, does not look like it was an add-on. they did a good job and said that was their biggest seller. i saw a few videos on anti cap suck solutions....mostly sanding/filing of the hammer, but it's not 100% reliable. the anticap jamming system blocks it all and like i said, does not look out of place. i think that was worth it. $75.
also, they only sell the Taylor version, which from what i've heard is better finish quality all around. they sell for $100 more than the uberti's, so the actual gunsmithing charge is about $100 for everything, since the new nippples are about $75, and the hand spring is maybe $20, so with all that considered you are getting a lot for your money. yes you could watch days of youtube videos buy i just want one that is ready to shoot out of the box. i can watch videos on maintenance or how to adjust indexing, etc if i have problems, but i rather focus my time on casting bullets and making paper cartridges.
  1. Hone, and rework all internal parts
  2. Replace springs with high quality U.S. springs (Lee's "Gunslinger Spring Kit")
  3. Rebuild and harden single tooth hand.
  4. Rebuild and harden bolt cam as necessary
  5. Drill frame for Coil type Hand Spring and install.
  6. Correct Bolt engagement and position
  7. Rework sear and hammer for crisp 2 1/2lb. trigger pull
  8. Re-cut forcing cone to 11 degrees
  9. Square and smooth barrel face
  10. Correct Cylinder gap for fouling
  11. Correct timing and advance or delay bolt drop as necessary
  12. Install Slix-Shot Stainless Steel Nipples
  13. Correct Arbor Length in Frame
Add a set of Slixshot nipples and you will have a gun as reliable as a suppository gun. I have a couple of percussion guns and all have cap rakes. Money well spent.
Hold Center
Have fun
Bunk
 
So you go on your personal experience with your ideas. Fine.
I also have personal experience with my own revolvers. In fact this arbor ordeal is why I'm a tuner today! My revolvers always came back from the range with some metal movement, wedges bent, endshake obviously larger than when they started at the range. Shooting unspeakable ammo is more punishing to the revolver than bp is. So, I needed to find out how to have the same revolver when I came home from the range that had taken to the range. After I found Pettifogger's articles it all made since. Later on actually tuning some Original open Tops allowed me to verify that Mr. Pettifogger was correct.
Since my own revolvers now remained unharmed and having the same tolerances after a visit to the range was further verification that these modifications were necessary if a person expected the same results.
So, I have pre mod experience (since I was about 15 yo). I educated myself and have experienced trouble free shooting for the last 10yrs. So, as you say in your post, I was taught tuning (from probably the best tuner alive today, Mr. Jim Martin). I educated myself with Larson's articles and verified the articles finally with original revolvers. Therefore, I'll stick with Colt, Pettifogger and Mr. Martin as to design and how to make them run.

Shortly after I "fixed" my own, it occurred to me that since mine DON'T take a beating anymore with unmentionable ammo, shooting bp in the same setup would be a breeze!!! 100's of revolvers now run just like mine do and that's a lot of experience. My revolvers have won many state championships over the years and those competition guns get shot many times more than the average shooter.
I'd say that's a lot of testing of a modification that has been born out time and time again. You can think what you want but education followed with experience times hundreds is all the verification I need.

Mike
Do you work on Remington 1858"s and do they have as many problems as the Colt styles?
 
Do you work on Remington 1858"s and do they have as many problems as the Colt styles?
Yessir!! The Remington is a very nice platform!! As far as the problems go ;
1- they have flat action springs that are prone to break (especially the hand spring).
2- factory timing is typically late.
3- the cylinder base pin allows fouling to collect and bind the cylinder rather quickly.

I change the action springs to individual coils ( bolt, trigger and hand !). Of course correct the timing and I have my own method for fouling management for the pin.
With the normal addition of a bolt block and an action stop, they are every bit the 19th century version of a Ruger!! You can shoot problem free all day . . . "treat um like a fool" . . . and they just won't break!!

Of the 3 main platforms I work on (Colt, ROA's and Remingtons) the Rem platform was the most difficult to design. The main reason is lack of room in the frame. The Rem swings the bolt and trigger on the same screw leaving no room for the addition of torsion springs!! Not to mention along with a bolt block filling up the empty space!! ( For this reason, I believe I'm the first to "coil spring" a Remington S.A.) But, the hand spring was the most difficult. You can't drill through the single piece frame and install a "coil and pushrod" like you can with the Colt and of course the ROA ( which already has a pilot hole for me!! Lol). So, needless to say, I finally figured it out (without the hand spring fix, there's not much point in the rest of them!!) and it makes for an extremely reliable/robust action!! Remingtons I've tuned this way have won several State championships,, some multiple times!!
Thanks for asking!!

Mike
 
@45D, have you also tuned a Rogers & Spencer?
Yes, I've had a few through the shop but they are flat spring onlys. Not necessarily that that's a bad thing, they just don't lend themselves to a "new" design. So it's a tune them "like they are" thing.

Mike
 
Yessir!! The Remington is a very nice platform!! As far as the problems go ;
1- they have flat action springs that are prone to break (especially the hand spring).
2- factory timing is typically late.
3- the cylinder base pin allows fouling to collect and bind the cylinder rather quickly.

I change the action springs to individual coils ( bolt, trigger and hand !). Of course correct the timing and I have my own method for fouling management for the pin.
With the normal addition of a bolt block and an action stop, they are every bit the 19th century version of a Ruger!! You can shoot problem free all day . . . "treat um like a fool" . . . and they just won't break!!

Of the 3 main platforms I work on (Colt, ROA's and Remingtons) the Rem platform was the most difficult to design. The main reason is lack of room in the frame. The Rem swings the bolt and trigger on the same screw leaving no room for the addition of torsion springs!! Not to mention along with a bolt block filling up the empty space!! ( For this reason, I believe I'm the first to "coil spring" a Remington S.A.) But, the hand spring was the most difficult. You can't drill through the single piece frame and install a "coil and pushrod" like you can with the Colt and of course the ROA ( which already has a pilot hole for me!! Lol). So, needless to say, I finally figured it out (without the hand spring fix, there's not much point in the rest of them!!) and it makes for an extremely reliable/robust action!! Remingtons I've tuned this way have won several State championships,, some multiple times!!
Thanks for asking!!

Mike
Thank you , I appreciate the excellent explanation.
 
Add a set of Slixshot nipples and you will have a gun as reliable as a suppository gun. I have a couple of percussion guns and all have cap rakes. Money well spent.
Hold Center
Have fun
Bunk
slixshot nipples are included in the purchase of the Longhunt pistol, plus the cost of the springs. about a $120-$150 value
Again. Longhunt Sells the Taylor Uberti, which is $100 more than the regular. better finishing. add the parts and it's $550. Total price is $640, so all the gunsmithing is about $90. not bad all things considered.

I am merely commenting on the pistol and vendor i decided to use. There are other gunsmiths out there just as capible, i'm sure, so no ill will or negative coments on their work. I"m sure they are all great and capable. I'm just commenting on my experience with Longhunt and what you get for the amount you are spending. $90 or $100 in gunsmithing is not bad at all for everthing on the list that i posted. if i was going to complain about 1 thing...........i think the shipping price of $30 was a bit high, but the box ships with the Taylor factory box inside and comes with a nice padded zippered case. $20 for shipping seems more reasonable......but i'm quibbling over $10, so................ :-0
 
I've never taken to foolish spending, and found many years ago that there isn't any simple "tuning" I couldn't do to a cap and ball revolver to improve its' action. To me, spending a few hundred $ to have someone do a little twiddling is sucker bait.
There is a myriad of Youtube videos that go into various easy DIY tune-up procedures, and you can get springs a lot cheaper yourself. Careful use of a Dremel tool is what is required.
Cabelas revolvers on sale comprise most of my collection. Money saved was used for molds, tools and accessories.
 
I just ordered an 1860 today from Jim at Long Hunters. I opted for the cylinder bore to .452 and the anti cap jam mechanism. Didn’t have them do the 11 degree barrel crown. We talked for over 30 minutes, Jim is a very nice guy. I can’t wait to get it! I should have it in 2 weeks.
 
I just ordered an 1860 today from Jim at Long Hunters. I opted for the cylinder bore to .452 and the anti cap jam mechanism. Didn’t have them do the 11 degree barrel crown. We talked for over 30 minutes, Jim is a very nice guy. I can’t wait to get it! I should have it in 2 weeks.
Enjoy, I am sure you will find it to be a nice pistol.
 
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