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Wads?

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When did the factory made wads and cards come on the scene? I’m talking about these kinds:
A243B905-67C4-4C71-9089-D4E723218281.jpeg

I know many nowadays use these wads and cards in their earlier styles trade guns and fusils, but are these actually historically correct? I’ve read period accounts of tree bark, wool, and other natural waddings, but not so much these ones.

Thoughts?
 
The earliest I have found was Jean Samuel Pauly's September 29, 1812 French Patent

They were pretty common by the 1870's They were designed for cartridges but also used in muzzleloaders.

1594057786097.png
 
When did the factory made wads and cards come on the scene? I’m talking about these kinds:

I know many nowadays use these wads and cards in their earlier styles trade guns and fusils, but are these actually historically correct? I’ve read period accounts of tree bark, wool, and other natural waddings, but not so much these ones.
Not factory made, but cards stamped to proper size with a circular punch were used very early. There are quite a few references to them in the old literature. Thomas Page, The Art of Shooting Flying, 1767, mentioned their being made of various materials.
******
FRIENDLY
And what sort of wadding do you best approve of? I have heard some say that tow is best, others, cards stamped to fit the size of the bore.

AIMWELL
If cards be used, the end of your rammer must be almost as broad as your barrel will admit of, to go down free, and quite flat at the end, to prevent the card from turning; and must be push'd down gradually, to give time for the air to pass, otherwise it will be troublesome. This is therefore not the quickest way. Old hat [felt] may be used in the same manner, which is rather better: and some say leather shreds are best.
******
There is also circumstantial evidence of hard cards with some weight to them, material not specified, being used quite early on.

The Pennsylvania Gazette
July 18, 1734
From Shrewsbury we hear, That on the 5th Inst. being Training Day at that Place, One of the Soldiers having his Musket loaded with a hard Wadd on the Charge, in attempting to fire between the Legs of one Samuel Davenport his Fellow-Soldier, about Twenty-five Years of Age, the Wadd struck his Ancle Bone with such Force, that it was shatter'd, and broke quite off; and a Day or two after, the poor Man's Leg was cut off, and it was greatly fear'd he would lose his Life thereby.

The Pennsylvania Gazette
January 16, 1753
ANNAPOLIS, December 7.
Last Monday, being Christmas Day, some People having got pretty merry at the House of Joseph Crouch on the North Side of Severn, his Son very imprudently attempting to fire a Gun between his Father’s legs, shattering the Bone of one of them with the Wad in a terrible Manner, so that it is thought he cannot recover.

From later, in 1812, A handbook for riflemen;, by William Duane:

"A method has been usefully resorted to of providing a punch made of steel, which by means of a hollow barrel equal to the calibre, cut either hat, or leather pieces to serve as wads, which are forced down immediately on the powder, after the powder is levelled well by a stroke of the but against the ground. This punch is made in the manner of those punches used by saddlers to cut large holes in stirrup leathers, &c.; hats, leather of all kinds, even linen, cotton or woolen cloth, or paper, might be cut with this punch with great advantage for wads; the ball should be laid over this kind of wad, and followed by another well forced in, when it is intended to march loaded."

Spence
 
Excellent Spence.
That's way better and earlier than what posted.
I guess I'm also wrong in saying that they were developed for cartridges. It was existing technology when Pauly filed his patent. :thumb:
 
I've always mostly punched out my own rather than buying them. If you punch a little pin-hole in the card wads the air escapes quickly and seating is easier.
 
The deep fairy solid felt ect wads are quite late Wilkinson patented the idea for' elastic' wadding and I think its Col Hawker who discusses them with a mention that formally 'Mere pasteboard was considered enough of a wad' over the powder ' I have both works so must look them up if its warrented .
Rudyard
 
With a muzzleloader, it is not necessary to put a hole thru the wad to release the trapped air.

In the case of a flintlock or a caplock without a cap on the nipple, there is already a vent hole in the barrel or nipple for the air to escape thru.

Actually, forcing the air thru the vent hole or nipple is a good thing. It blows the loose powder down close to the source of the ignition.
 
With a muzzleloader, it is not necessary to put a hole thru the wad to release the trapped air.

In the case of a flintlock or a caplock without a cap on the nipple, there is already a vent hole in the barrel or nipple for the air to escape thru.

Actually, forcing the air thru the vent hole or nipple is a good thing. It blows the loose powder down close to the source of the ignition.

It is necessary for the overshot card, especially if you use a leather over powder wad like I do.
I don't poke a hole in the middle though, I tear a slit in the edge.
 
My family still has a card punch from great grandfather. It measures for a 14 guage and looks to be made by a blacksmith, or gunsmith.
 
My family still has a card punch from great grandfather. It measures for a 14 guage and looks to be made by a blacksmith, or gunsmith.

Cool, would love to see a photo if possible. Do you know how old it is ?
 
1594094255025.png
Found one at Home Depot $12.65 5/8" .625. Looked like HF only went to 1/2"
 
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Does anyone know were to get one like this for 20 gauge ?

Campbell Randall Machinery has Osborne Arch Punches in every size, fractional and metric. They are not cheap, but your great grandchildren will be cutting wads with them. Carbon 6 is correct in that a 5/8" (0.625") punch is ideal for 20 gauge. Here is a link to a punch in that size from Campbell-Randall: 5/8" Osborne Arch Punch

I already had a 5/8" punch for my 20 gauge, but I recently bought one of these punches from Campbell-Randall in 15 mm for my 24 gauge/.58 caliber Northwest gun. 15mm converts to 0.590551". Thin card wads fit great, and I'm sure it would also be good for wads cut from felt or blanketing, but really thick, firm material like leather might be kind of tight. I haven't tried it yet with anything that heavy.

Notchy Bob
 
Campbell Randall Machinery has Osborne Arch Punches in every size, fractional and metric. They are not cheap, but your great grandchildren will be cutting wads with them. Carbon 6 is correct in that a 5/8" (0.625") punch is ideal for 20 gauge. Here is a link to a punch in that size from Campbell-Randall: 5/8" Osborne Arch Punch

I already had a 5/8" punch for my 20 gauge, but I recently bought one of these punches from Campbell-Randall in 15 mm for my 24 gauge/.58 caliber Northwest gun. 15mm converts to 0.590551". Thin card wads fit great, and I'm sure it would also be good for wads cut from felt or blanketing, but really thick, firm material like leather might be kind of tight. I haven't tried it yet with anything that heavy.

Notchy Bob

The one at Home Depot is 5/8" (.625") , for just over $12 it's worth a chance.
 
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