Wad thickness

Discussion in 'Handguns' started by Eutycus, Jan 24, 2019.

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  1. Jan 24, 2019 #1

    Eutycus

    Eutycus

    Eutycus

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    I'm fairly new at cap and ball revolver shooting, so new in fact I havent done any yet.I was just about to give it a try when I remembered that I didnt have any wads on hand. So I'm in the process of making some.I have an old felt hat and a 7/16 hollow punch from Harbor Freight.The wads are punched out and will be lubed tomorrow. Now I have a question or two. I've noticed the wads are thinner than the Duro Felt that is usually used. Probably by about half. Will this make any differance? And how long after a person lubes the wads must he wait till they are used? Do they need time to "dry" or "cure"?
     
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  2. Jan 24, 2019 #2

    Grenadier1758

    Grenadier1758

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    You really don't have to wait to use the lubricated wads. The wait can be as short as it takes from the time you lubricate them until you get to the range to load your revolver. If you are concerned about your lubricant getting to your powder, you can punch out some over powder cards to separate the powder from the wads and stack the cards to add thickness to your wad. You can load corn meal or Cream of Wheat to add to the load to bring the bullet to be flush with the chamber mouth. A bit of soft lubricant can keep the fouling soft during the shooting session. What you don't want is space between the powder and the bullet/ball.
     
  3. Jan 24, 2019 #3

    Eutycus

    Eutycus

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    Just what sort of material are these cards made of? I'm thinking some kind of cardboard , like cerealbox cardboard? Or is it the wax on one side?
     
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  4. Jan 24, 2019 #4

    Kansas Jake

    Kansas Jake

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    I shot my cap and ball revolvers for many years without any wad between powder and ball. I used a dab of Crisco (the horror) over the ball to help prevent a chain fire.

    You can use an old cereal box or egg carton to make the cards or other types of cardboard.

    Grenadier give good advice. If you want better accuracy many suggest a filler over the powder to move the ball close to the top of the cylinder. I'm such a poor pistol shot that I didn't bother. I shoot my pistols for fun and years ago used them for close shots at bunnies when hunting. I had a 36 caliber Remington replica that was deadly on cottontails within 15 to 20 feet.
     
  5. Jan 24, 2019 #5

    Eutycus

    Eutycus

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    I'm not now or ever have been a great shot with a pistol.Reasonably accurate is good enough for me. Now, are these cards just that...cardboard cards (untreated) or are they lubed or waxed too?
     
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  6. Jan 24, 2019 #6

    Kansas Jake

    Kansas Jake

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    I don't think they need to be waxed or lubed. I would only used them if your wad is extremely oily or if you plan on leaving a lubed wad in a loaded revolver for an extended period of time. I use homemade lubed wads over the powder in my revolvers and do not use a wad. I lube my wads with a mixture of beeswax, lard and paraffin. It dries hard and doesn't melt until over 100 degrees. I've used them in the fall in revolvers and left the gun loaded for several weeks without any noticeable loss of power. If I was going to leave it loaded longer, I would buy commercial Wonder Wads.
     
  7. Jan 24, 2019 #7

    8 BORE

    8 BORE

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    I use powder then corn meal then ball. Get the ball seated about .030 below the end of the cylinder. I have never put grease over the ball. Never had a chain fire.
     
  8. Jan 24, 2019 #8

    Swandog

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  9. Jan 24, 2019 #9

    Eutycus

    Eutycus

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    I need to get in there and melt the lube. My wife absolutly forbids it in "her" kitchen. What works best stove top or microwave?
     
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  10. Jan 24, 2019 #10

    Smokey Plainsman

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    I’d try it and see. The old timers would use worn out felt hats to make wads, and if you’ve one handy, why not? I like the durofelt product, too, but nothing wrong with hat wads if being thrifty, which is a big part of black powder to me, being inventive, thrifty, and penny wise, just like the old timers was back in them days.
     
  11. Jan 24, 2019 #11

    Eutycus

    Eutycus

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    Bought an old hat from Goodwill last year for $1.00. Nice hat but no amount of stretching would make it fit me. I finally got around to punching out wads. Made alot of noise but I enjoyed it.I'm really in no hurry but I want to see and hear that revolver go bang before the sun goes down. Anyway thats the plan. If I dont make it theres always tomorrow.
     
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  12. Jan 24, 2019 #12

    Eutycus

    Eutycus

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    Got the wads lubed. It was messy. I dont remember all of it but its mainly a crisco and beeswax mix. I do recall there is some utter balm and lard in it too.. Thank heavens for rubber gloves
     
  13. Jan 24, 2019 #13

    Eutycus

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    Hey guys I want to thank each and everyone of you for your input. I just may put shooting that thing off until tomorrow. I got a touch of bronchitis and just may go climb back into bed. But each day I am getting closer to shooting that thing. Plus I want my wife to be there to take a picture or two. Oh by the way that thing is a ASM 1851 Navy. 44 cal. Its the one I bought second hand from a pawn shop. But knowing me I'll still have a question or two.
     
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  14. Jan 25, 2019 #14

    Eutycus

    Eutycus

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    I've heard several down sides to store bought wonder wads. One being that they are expensive. Another is that they dont have "enough" lube on them. I'm a bit puzzled by that "not enough" statement. Could some one explain exactly what not enough means. They do work do they not? Is it not enough of a lube that does work or enough of a weak mixture of lube that doesnt work too well.
     
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  15. Jan 26, 2019 #15

    Grenadier1758

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    The not enough observation is opinion. It may be based on fouling build up in the barrel and on the arbor. In any event, maintaining control of the fouling during a shooting session is something for the individual shooter to decide. Too much lubricant on the wads may coat the revolver with a lot of oil while keeping fouling soft. Less lubricant may mean a harder fouling build up and may slow the rotating of the cylinder. But a simple wiping of the barrel and removal of the cylinder to wipe the cylinder arbor pin is good practice in any event.
     
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  16. Jan 26, 2019 #16

    Eutycus

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    Some but not all of the wads are beginning to come out "not-exactly- round". I would assume the wads need to be perfectly round, that is the whole point of using them isnt it? I had fun cutting up an old felt hat. I would imagine with alot of use the tool gets dull. How often does it need sharpening or dressing? And how is this done and with what?
     
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  17. Jan 26, 2019 #17

    Eutycus

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    Does the lube from the wads get on the arbor? I can see it effecting the barrel, but it reaches the arbor too? What does diect greasing of the arbor do? Please excuse the many questions, I still got more!
     
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  18. Jan 26, 2019 #18

    Bulldog60

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  19. Jan 26, 2019 #19

    Eutycus

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    Thank you Bulldog60 thats gonna be an interesting read. I started and my eyes are already tired!
     
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  20. Jan 26, 2019 #20

    Juice Jaws

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    You know shooting a BP revolver is not rocket science. I don't use wads or lube. Just powder and ball. Some guys use wads and lube. Just go out and shoot the dang thing and see what you like best.
     
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