Virginia Rifle Progress

[pipascus]

Here are some pictures of the progress of my Virginia Rifle.

Here's the barrel getting the front sight dovetail by Barbie Chambers at the Chambers workshop:

A few pictures of the rifle on the bench just before getting started:

The tang after shaping:

The tang before bending:

And here is where I am as of today: 7/16/06 10PM:

 

[pipascus]

Here's a video of my rifle's barrel getting the front sight doevetail:

 

[Slowpoke]

Fantastic !!!! Loved the video.

 

[AZ-Robert]

Thanks for the pics! Looking forward to the next update :hatsoff:

 

[Samuel]

Thanks
I'm working on a Tennessee Rifle and enjoy so much seeing other work

 

[pipascus]

Well I got the barrel lugs in. A call to Chambers helped, since I was being overly cautious about peening the lugs.
I also got the pins in. Now I guess I have to cut them down and file them flat to the stock, but I'll wait 'till I get other things done.

Here are some more pictures taken today:

Next step: Fit buttplate.

 

[Mike Brooks]

Is that the way you were supporting the stock when you were inletting the barrel?

 

Leave the pins long, you are gonna be pulling them and putting them in a number of times before you are finished. In fact I would recommend putting a 90 degree bend on one side to make it easier to pull and insert them. also file or grind one side to a point to help installing them. Bill

 

[pipascus]

Is that the way you were supporting the stock when you were inletting the barrel?

Ahhh, yep... :redface: for the most part.

 

[pipascus]

Yeah, I figure I'll leave 'em long for now. Lots to do still!

 

[Zonie]

You might want to file the ends of the underlugs so the protruding material doesn't stick out beyond the barrel flats.

Admittedly, no one will see them when the barrel is installed but if they are flush with the barrel flats, you won't have to carve the wood away to clear them.

Zonie

 

[pipascus]

Indeed. Already done! :thumbsup:

 

[pipascus]

Ok, so I got the butt plate on.

HOWEVER, as I was tapping the trigger plate the tap broke! I was going slow, not forcing it, using oil, backing it up a bit, but the piece of $^!* broke, leaving a piece lodged inside the trigger plate!!!

The tip had hardly gone through, so I tapped it with a hammer and was able to back it out by the tiny broken sliver with pliers.!

The tap brand is Kobalt. I figured it was a good brand, but that damn thing broke like it was made of porcelain!!! It has a lifetime warranty, but I'd rather it just have stood up to even delicate work!

 

[Zonie]

Sorry to hear that. I'm also glad you got it out so easily. Some folks aren't as lucky.

I'm not familure with the Kobalt name so I can't comment on it but your comments about it breaking like porcelain is a good description of how all taps break.
They are VERY hard and because of this, they break very easily.

I am sure you already know this however for those to whom making threads is a new adventure let me say the following:

I'm not sure what you were using to lubricate the tap with and I'm not sure how often and how much you were backing the tap out but here's ole Zonies take on tapping steel.

The tap absolutly must be lubed, and IMO, motor oil will not do the job.
I use a sulphated "thread cutting oil" that is available where ever they sell taps and dies.
I know there is another lard based oil that works well, but I forgot the name of it. Some of the other members have mentioned it by name before.

When starting the tap, keep it aligned with the tap drilled hole and give a steady downward pressure while carefully turning it.
If the tap starts crooked, do not push on it to straighten it back up. Back it out and try starting it straight.

When screwing the tap in, do not go over 3/4 of a turn without backing the tap back at least 1/3 of a turn. This "breaks" the chip and keeps it from binding the tap in the hole.
I go about 3/4 turn or until the tap shows some real resistance whichever comes first. Then I back it out 1/2 turn, advance it back to where it was and then go another 1/2 to 3/4 turn.
I repeat this until the tap shows little or no resistance.

So far, I haven't had the misfortune of breaking a tap in several years now (knock on wood :grin: )

Zonie

 

[paulvallandigham]

I was trained to turn a tap at most 1/2 turn, and then back it out 1/4 turn. It has always worked for me, and I have not broken a tap. You do want to use a very high grade oil made for this work. Besides breaking off the chips, so they won't seize the tap threads, backing the tap up also helps to make the threads smooth, without coarse, torn edges. This can be very noticeable in cold roll steels, and sometimes in brass.

 

[pipascus]

Well the new tap worked. I was extra careful as you all advised, and I used a leather lubricant with bee's wax since the last lube was just oil. It seemed to work, 'cause nothing broke.

Here are a few more pictures, and a question:

The hole for the tang/trigger plate screw came out, well, screwy. Here's a picture:

and another:

Should I leave it as is or glue a dowel in it and redrill?

The rest of the pictures:

Thanks! :hatsoff:

 

[Geoff Jones]

Good job on the buttplate! Looks good.

In regards to the tang bolt hole....if it's close, I'd just open up the hole slightly with a rat tail file. If there's not too much to take off to straighten it out, it's not going to structurally weaken the area. Tap the trigger plate with the tap THROUGH the hole to make sure the thread angles line up properly. I'd also have the tail end of the trigger plate screwed in properly before tapping.

Good luck! Looks good!
geoff

 

[pipascus]

Thanks!
Just about all of the good looks are a testament to the quality of the Jim Chambers kits. I'm new to this and so learning as I go, but these must be heaven to experienced builders!

 

[pipascus]

Well, the next step is putting on the lock. This has me a bit nervous, but I will take my time. I am also worried about a nearing step: drilling and tapping the barrel for the touch hole liner (white Lightning)! :hmm: Any advice will be much appreciated!

 

[AZ-Robert]

Casador -- looks like you are putting a sliding wooden patch box on the stock. Did Chambers pre-cut those dovetails? If so, is the box lid pre-cut too?

Looking good so far :thumbsup: Thanks for the pics.