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Vinegaroon

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Red Owl

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Someone said I was waiting too long on this so....Steel wool in a glass jar, weight it down to prevent floating (so it doesn't rust), and cover with vinegar. This time I waited only 8-10 hours and the vinegar was still clear as a bell but when I dabbed it on tanned leather, turned black right away. You don't want any rust so I removed the steel wool but the mixture seemed to keep darkening, black, not rust colored. After a day I tried it again, still worked but the 8-10 hour stuff seemed to work better. Just passing along my experi3ence.
 
Very interesting - Thanks for posting about it.

Got any pics of the leather so treated ?
 
Here are some examples of my sheaths/scabbard vinegarooned black. Rust in your mix does no harm. It wipes off, and any that does not disappears when you oil the leather. If you use steel wool, it works best if you wash it in acetone or alcohol, as it has a light coat of oil on it that can slow the process. I just use old nails, rusted barb wire, small scrap pieces, ect.
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Thanks, guys! I'd never heard of vinegarooning leather before. Cool trick!
 
Here are some examples of my sheaths/scabbard vinegarooned black. Rust in your mix does no harm. It wipes off, and any that does not disappears when you oil the leather. If you use steel wool, it works best if you wash it in acetone or alcohol, as it has a light coat of oil on it that can slow the process. I just use old nails, rusted barb wire, small scrap pieces, ect.
View attachment 84869
View attachment 84870
View attachment 84872
Why doesn't my stuff look this good? LOL!
 
Couple of things. The dye you buy from Tandy's etc. I find it difficult to get a nice even finish. It is also not pc. The vinegaroon is cheap and works great. Because if re-acts with tanned leather, it isn't a dye so generally it does not leach out when wet and stain your clothes. I say "mostly" because if you absolute4ly soak the leather you might get a little run/leach but it is rare and the best coloring of leather I've found so far. I wish there was a mordant (sic?) or some type of additive that would yield a brown color.
If you make up a batch, the fumes can expand and break a glass jar (you need to use glass. I just leave the lid loose and open/close now and then. As I said it only takes 10-14 hours or so to make a batch. On the rust, it will wash off, etc. and using neat's-foot oil finishes the project. I think some folks use a wash, baking soda and water to neutralize the acid in the vinegar. I never had and I've never had a problem.
The walnut hulls/huskes....I know you can get a brown dye but is it color fast or does it run when wet?
 
Couple of things. The dye you buy from Tandy's etc. I find it difficult to get a nice even finish. It is also not pc. The vinegaroon is cheap and works great. Because if re-acts with tanned leather, it isn't a dye so generally it does not leach out when wet and stain your clothes. I say "mostly" because if you absolute4ly soak the leather you might get a little run/leach but it is rare and the best coloring of leather I've found so far. I wish there was a mordant (sic?) or some type of additive that would yield a brown color.
If you make up a batch, the fumes can expand and break a glass jar (you need to use glass. I just leave the lid loose and open/close now and then. As I said it only takes 10-14 hours or so to make a batch. On the rust, it will wash off, etc. and using neat's-foot oil finishes the project. I think some folks use a wash, baking soda and water to neutralize the acid in the vinegar. I never had and I've never had a problem.
The walnut hulls/huskes....I know you can get a brown dye but is it color fast or does it run when wet?
Baking soda/water solution will turn vegetan brown. Repeat to get darker color. Saw this on you tube sometime back, tried it, and it works. Apply, then allow to dry.
 
Wick,
What type of oil do you use ?

Beautiful results , Excellent Craftsmanship đź‘Ť
I confess to be a heretic. I have used mineral oil rather than neatsfoot for the past 30/35 years, for my leather goods. I found it as good or better than neatsfoot for my sheaths and holsters. It keeps the leather supple just as neatsfoot, and does not attack it or the linen stitching thus far. Also, it does not draw bugs as pure neatsfoot can. I re-apply every few years, or when it seems too dry. One very nice plus I found with sheaths and holsters treated with mineral oil, is that my guns and knives do not rust if stored in their sheaths/holsters. I have a fancy hunting/belt knife and sheath I made for myself, sometime in the early 90's. Knife has been kept in the sheath since then when it wasn't being used. I just checked it and the sheath. No rust or leather damage. I do wipe blades with gun oil if I have used them, then back into the sheath where they stay until needed. DO NOTE, this concerns vege-tanned leather only. Not chrome tanned.
 
I tried the Baking Soda, it does work and a repeat brings a darker color. The back or flesh side seems to be more even while the smooth side, I'll have to keep playing with it, there seems to be a variation in the shade of color. I'm pretty excited about it as I have long wanted a brown type reagent. Thanks for sharing.
 
I found this "You Tube" As I said, pretty excited. The main thing is if it is a "fast" dye that won't leach out and stain your clothes.

 
Doesn't look like it went through but check you tube. "Look what happens when you apply baking soda to veg tan leather"
 
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