Using/shooting original barrels-safety

[rich pierce]

Based on recent discussions about the suitability of various barrel steels and methods of forming barrels, what are your thoughts on shoting original double barrel shotguns? Civil war guns? Using original wrought iron rifle barrels in new construction (re-rifled)? Using a gun made by the colonial Williamsburg gunsmiths witha wrought iron forge-welded barrel? How about a Brad Emig forged wrought iron barrel?

 

[Loyalist Dave]

The modern made barrel using hand techniques should be fine.

As for old muzzleloading barrels, if inspected by a gunsmith, you might be alright firing them, but you always run the risk of degrading or destroying a collection piece, for if it has survived in shootable condition it is well preserved. I have a friend who inherited his great grandfather's "low budget" single shot caplock shotgun made in the 1890's. He had it checked, and fired it once as a memorial on what would've been the gent's 120th birthday. It was then cleaned and placed on display.

Now as for BP breech loading originals, like a damascas barreled shotgun, again, if you had a proper load in BP, you should be fine after inspection by a qualified gunsmith.

LD

 

[Col. Batguano]

The guys on Pawn Stars shoot everything. Just keep your loads light. Your bigger risk is in taking it apart and cleaning it. Some times there are things that have rusted, and are barely still attached that you can't see, and they may break when you're doing that.

 

[Rifleman1776]

The guys on Pawn Stars shoot everything.

And, of course, they are the definitive experts on everything. And, they are on TV so you can believe everything.
(I'm laughing so hard I can feel the tears running down my leg. :rotf: )

 

[Col. Batguano]

Here's an alternative;

Ask someone you owe a lot of money to to proof test it for you with a typical proof load. If it blows up, you win. If it doesn't, you win too. :v

 

[ohio ramrod]

My son still shoots a Bavarian Leader damacus barreled SxS made in the 1880's using 18 grain red dot. So I would consider any other damacus barrel in good condition perfectly safe for use with black powder. :idunno: :idunno:

 

[rich pierce]

I shoot an original 20 ga percussion double with Damascus barrels and am re-purposing several original fowling gun barrels and a jaeger rifle barrel. All these original barrels were stand-alone remnants, not taken from an intact original gun or even a parts set.

 

[krolick]

Im shooting an original M1816 type 2 Springfield musket dated 1825 and a M1819 Hall breech loadeing rifle dated 1826.Both are flint,ive been shooting these 2 for 21 years now,no problems.I do use lite loads,60grians of 2f with a 640 r.b.in the 69 cal. musket.In the Hall,40 grains of 3f and a530 r.b.(52 cal.).They see alot of use, the only times i dont take them out is if the tempeture is below 30 degrees.These are two of the most reliable flint guns,never failing to give fire.Do i trust them ,yes.G.S.

 

[jerrywh]

That's' perfect. That reminds me of Abbot and Costello.
On the subject in my opinion every barrel is judged on it's own merits no matter who makes it.
I don't trust many barrels until I proof them. I agree totally with Zonie. I run two or three moderate distructive tests and a couple of normal loads afterwards. My standard is double powder 1 prb.twice. Then single powder load double prb. Then standard load twice.
Just think how lucky you are if it blows up.
I have used tripple powder and one prb in a real thin barrel made of 1137. No problem at all. I am of the opinion that there has to be something real bad wrong for a barrel to blow up under these kinds of proof tests. I thought for sure that thin barrel would blow up but it never phased it. The breach was only .160 thick and the last 8 inches only .032 thick. The total length was only 12" I proofed it with 150 grs of ffg goex and one .54 prb.

 

[fleener]

I have 7 1800's shotguns both ML and bp cart hammer guns that I shoot. Condition of the barrels is very important. Pitting of the barrels, how deep, how many and location. Thickness of the barrel wall. Loose ribs, broken solder.

before I buy a gun I will take the barrel off, suspend the barrel on one finger on a ramrod thimble and tap it with my finger. That will help tell you if you have anything loose on the barrel. It should ring like a bell.

I dont shoot heavy loads usually. But i do shoot loads heavy enough for hunting. Took a WC Scott 13 ga pheasant hunting opening day hear in Iowa and shot my limit of wild birds. I also use a 10 for geese on occasion.

snapper

 

[varsity07840]

I shoot original 1816 flint Springfield, 1841 Mississippi, 1842 rifled full length musketoon length Springfield, 1863 Springfield Westley Richards English Sporting Rifle, Percussion .69 cal plains rifle, Some of the military ones have been relined.

Duane

 

[steved]

I also shoot an original M1819 Hall Rifle dated 1826 (percussion conversion),as well as an M1842 Springfield smoothbore musket, after careful inspection and with light loads of course. I posted range reports on both in the Percussion forum. The underside of the M1842 barrel looked like it was made yesterday and there is no pitting around the bolster and breech. It was a calculated risk that I was willing to take because part of the enjoyment for me of owning these old warhorses is to honor the spirit of those who carried them before me by shooting them.

 

[krolick]

In haste, I neglected to say that all original firearms that I have fired, I disassembled and checked (always making sure they're empty first), especially the barrels. If I could not remove the breech plug through reasonable means I would not use it. Without knowing the condition of the threads, it would be foolish to fire. Also, with the plug out a more thorough inspection of the barrel is possible. Note, with barrels that have been coverted to percussion with a drum, remove the drum frist. Sometimes the threads of the drum are up against the breech plug. Always good to hear from another Hall shooter. Mine has quite a history. I'll save it for another post except to say mine has a Leeech&Rigdon 4 square stamp on the bottom of its receiver. The last line of your post reflects my thoughts, too. G.S.

 

[Jason Lewis]

i shoot an 1868 13ga percussion sxs, it's just a working gun and it gets worked. i shoot light loads for clays and no heavier than 1 1/4oz over 80grns 2F swiss for pheasants. i don't use it when the temps get down below 20degrees. i then switch to my BP breechloading hammerless 12ga from 1896.

 

I only have one rifle that has a really old barrel and that barrel is a Damascus wire wound barrel. I have been instructed that it would not be safe to shoot the gun and the sentimental value of this gun (my great grandfathers shotgun) and the actual value of the gun has always guided me to never shoot it. I'm sure if I had a light enough load and used black powder as opposed to smokeless powder I might be able to safely shoot it, but why take the chance.

 

[pargent]

I would seriously advise anyone wanting to do this not to ,if you realy realy have to ,get the barrel NDT 'd .NB a gun smith is usually only doing a sight inspection of the barrel condition. It should also be noted that blank charges and light loads may very well leed to a flash over.Not only are you chancing stuffing up a piece of our history but you are taking a chance on stuffing your face as well. Pre 1850 these guns were known to burst at times and now that is pretty much a sure thing just a matter of when .

 

[Baxter]

I am curious about the low-temperature exception to shooting that both you and GS observe. I don't own an old bp gun but winter temperatures in my area may not reach +20F for days and -20F in Jan/Feb is common. Thanks, baxter