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trad hunter

32 Cal.
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Can anyone tell me how to check a barrel?I'm looking at two
guns here local.One is a new englander 50 cal 1 in 48
the other is a traditions springfield hawken 1 in 66
The new englander looks new on the outside no wear at all.
The hawken is of course fancier but outside of barrel looks
like the finish is wearing off quite a bit.Now I'm just
a beginner but it would be easy to assume the inside of
these barrels would be similar but it seems that may not
be the case at all if one was shot once and not cleaned
and one was shot many times but well cleaned.Any advice
is appreciated oh both guns are priced at 145.00
 
IMO a bore light will only tell you if the first 6-9 inches hae any rust. It is a good idea of course to look because if that area is rusty the rest of the barrel probably is.
If the barrel is unused, it will be shiny all the way to the bottom, but if it has been shot it may be dull looking. This is not necessarly bad as long as rust isn't present.

Look at the muzzle. The crown or lead in should be smooth with the full rifling grooves in evidence (unless it has that stupid TC quick start barrel or has been "coned"). (An inexpensive rifle usually won't be coned as this takes more than the average inexpensive rifle owner is willing to do.). In other words, it shouldn't look worn.

Buy a .50 caliber cleaning jag and take some cleaning patches with you. (If the other gun is a different caliber, buy a jag to fit that caliber too. Consider it cheap insurance)

Take a cleaning rod that fits the jag to the store and place a patch on the muzzle. Start the patch/jag into the barrel. Sometimes getting it first started can be a chore but once it is started it should go to the bottom of the barrel without much fuss.
You are looking for two things with this patch.
The most obvious is to see if it looks rusty or excessivly dirty when you pull it out BUT another thing is its "feel" as it slides down the bore.

If the patch/jag takes a steady pressure on the rod to get the it to the bottom of the bore, everythings all right.
If at some point the patch/jag starts going a LOT EASIER and then returns to the original pressure, or it stays a LOT easier down to the bottom of the barrel, the barrel has been "ringed".

This "ring" is caused by firing the gun without fully seating the ball on the powder. Firing a gun this way expands the barrel "at" or "at and below" the balls location.
I have never known a barrel with this condition to shoot well.
If it has been ringed, you don't want it.

If the barrel hasn't been "ringed" and the patch shows just a hint or rust, or no rust at all, it is probably in good condition. :)
 
Ask the seller for a "bore light",,a little battery LED that drops down the barrel, most commercial buyers/sellers have one,,,you can get one for around $10,alot can be done with mild rust in a bore but watch out for pits!

here's a few things to look at when buying a used BP ML,,

Look at the barrel around the nipple/drum area or near the flash hole,,any signs of rust or pitting is an indication of poor cleaning practice. The very top of the lock and the wood near there can show excessive wear also.

Look at the muzzle end,,the flat (top) should be clean,smooth and free of deep scratches,, rifling lands (the high parts) should be very close to even,,any kind of "egg" shape here is a no-no. (rub yer finger tip around that spot,,Does it feel smooth?,,Even??)

Pull the hammer back and turn the gun over, look at the hammer cup,,Is it clean??,that's a hard spot to get at,,


Look at ALL the "screws" that are in the gun. Most folks that care for guns proper use the right size screwdriver for dis-assembly/asembly and cleaning. Lot's of damaged screw heads is a sign of poor handling.

For $145,,as an entry level gun,,that's not a bad price,,listen to what others add,,but if they both seem to be in fair shape and you still want to get one,,,chose the one that "fit's" best,,which one feels best in your arms and shoulder? Put the butt inside your elbow,,can ya reach the trigger good?
good luck,,,we'll all help ya the rest of the way too!!

BTW,,welcome to the "fever"!
 
Take a pen light like a AA Mini-Mag to shine down the barrels. Drop something smaller than the bore diameter and of a light color (just be sure it's something you can get back out - like an Asprin pill). The white will reflect light back up and help you see the barrel condition better. Take a couple cotton patches and ask if you can run the patches up and down the barrel. Dirty is not so much a problem, but rusty or if the patch grabs because the bore is rough is. (screw a corner of the patch under the jag when you tighten it onto the rod so it won't slip off in the bore).

If you want to shoot round ball the 1:66 would be a better choice. A conical the 1:48.
 
If your going to shop for used muzzleloaders, spend the $10 bucks for the borelight( looks like a tiny flashlight)that you can drop down the bore. It will tell you in a minute what the bore is like. I have people coming in my shop quite often trying to sell or trade me muzzleloaders and sometime they look very nice on the outside but when I drop in the light I find they have never been cleaned then you need to subtract the price of a new barrel from their asking price. :winking:
 
i use a trick to look down my barrel with a small pocket penlight like a doctor might have in his pocket....i take my rifle and with the barrel just about level i roll a .50 ball down the muzzle and just let it roll nice and slow down the barrel with the light at the muzzle looking down the barrel....and the bore lights up nice so i can see if i got it clean or if there is any rust the next day after cleaning it...............................bob
 
The only thing I would add to that is I would put some gun oil on the cleaning patch. Lots easier to use & less chance of getting the jag stuck. If it has rust in the bore, don't even waste you time with How Much or How deep.. Rust is rust & that is that. Leave it, go find one that is not rusted. There are lots of them out there & no use starting off with someone elses problems.

Custom Flintlocks & Custom Skinning Knives
 
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