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Underhammer Actions?

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Beyond degreasing when you are ready to brown, none. If you want a smoother finish you can draw file the barrel and clean the action with a file and emery cloth but the gun will look fine without that.
Sounds great. When the time comes I plan on using Laurel Mountain Barrel brown and degreaser. From what I've read that the best one to go with. Thanks again. Now just waiting to see if the house I've put an offer on goes through and if it does I'll have some place to do all the work
 
I had a Numerich H&A called a "Buggy Rifle" it was in .44 cal. with a real short barrel, very easy to hunt with and a lot of fun to shoot. I had to part with it 15 years ago when I lost my job, and have been trying to replace it for a long time now, I got teased a lot by my buddy's when we went to the woods, but it was a great little gun.
Really want another one!!

Our muzzleloading club in Northern California had a Buggy Rifle that made it thru the ranks of members' kids. My two sons used in shoots. Youngest son used it to shoot and set an unbeatable Western States record 50-5X while young enough to shoot Pee-Wee, he won the juniors class that year. Alas he grew older and it had to move along.
 
Found an under hammer by a custom builder several years ago and I wanted one, but they were just to pretty to carry in the bush, or even shoot as far as that goes.
 
I have done 3 of H&A actions, I use a obital sander with 220 grit for barrels and action , trigger and hammer will need polishing, smoother you get it,the better finish you will get with blueing or browning
 
I have done 3 of H&A actions, I use a obital sander with 220 grit for barrels and action , trigger and hammer will need polishing, smoother you get it,the better finish you will get with blueing or browning
Thanks for the advice. May just do everything by hand. Square flock if wood and fine emery cloth. I know it might take longer but less chance of spewing it up
 
Thanks for the advice. May just do everything by hand. Square flock if wood and fine emery cloth. I know it might take longer but less chance of spewing it up
Oh do you happen to know what method Pecotonia River uses to secure the barrel to the action? I've read 2 method. 1 is with a tapered pin and the other is to use 3 set screws so that you can actually wrap out barrels.
 
Three set screws. As far as I know Numrich/H&A is the only one to use the tapered pin, well possibly the NJ manufacturer too. The tapered pin also allows for barrel changes.
 
Three set screws. As far as I know Numrich/H&A is the only one to use the tapered pin, well possibly the NJ manufacturer too. The tapered pin also allows for barrel changes.
Oh really didn't know that about being able to swap barrels even if it has a tapered pin.
 
The Billinghurst also uses a tapered pin. I have multiple barrels set up on both types of actions. It is just a matter of driving out the pin sliding the barrel out and putting another barrel on and driving the pin back in. Simple if the tapered pin is done correctly when building.
 
Hawkeye,
To set it straight, either the tapered pin or 3 screw actions can have their barrels changed in about 3 minutes.
 
Sounds great. When the time comes I plan on using Laurel Mountain Barrel brown and degreaser. From what I've read that the best one to go with. Thanks again. Now just waiting to see if the house I've put an offer on goes through and if it does I'll have some place to do all the work
I always draw file and sand the barrels down to 320 grit paper then let the Laurel Mtn Forge solution put the surface texture I want on. Each application will evenly rough it up a bit more until you get where you like it best. The pitting of the barrel exterior has several benefits in that it knocks down glare , dissipates heat better on a hot day and holds oil to prevent corrosion. I prefer also to give the lower three barrel flats the same finish under the forearm and lube with RIG grease to preserve the under stock metal. A dry preservative like Ezzox would probably be a good choice on the bottom three flats if you don't have the wood well sealed in the barrel channel.
 
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I always draw file and sand the barrels down to 320 grit paper then let the Laurel Mtn Forge solution put the surface texture I want on. Each application will evenly rough it up a bit more until you get where you like it best. The pitting of the barrel exterior has several benefits in that it knocks down glare , dissipates heat better on a hot day and holds oil to prevent corrosion. I prefer also to give the lower three barrel flats the same finish under the forearm and lube with RIG grease to preserve the under stock metal. A dry preservative like Ezzox would probably be a good choice on the bottom three flats if you don't have the wood well sealed in the barrel channel.
Sounds good and I'll keep everything in mind. Right now just gathering info and hopefully after the new year be able to buy the kit from Pecotonia River. I'm in the process of trying to buy a home and I can't have any big expenses until it completed plus right now I have no place to build one anyway.
 
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I always draw file and sand the barrels down to 320 grit paper then let the Laurel Mtn Forge solution put the surface texture I want on. Each application will evenly rough it up a bit more until you get where you like it best. The pitting of the barrel exterior has several benefits in that it knocks down glare , dissipates heat better on a hot day and holds oil to prevent corrosion. I prefer also to give the lower three barrel flats the same finish under the forearm and lube with RIG grease to preserve the under stock metal. A dry preservative like Ezzox would probably be a good choice on the bottom three flats if you don't have the wood well sealed in the barrel channel.
I have a question. How do you prevent the threads both on the screws and screws holes from getting rusted up and damaging the threads?
 
Allen doesn't have the octagon barrel socket does it ? I really like that, gives it a "western" look.
 
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