My mind keeps going back to the thoughts of building a Vincent rifle. The thoughts of installing the under rib is a roadblock for me. Drill & tap the barrel? If so, how deep to drill? Tap size?
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Under Rib Installation.
- Thread starter pooch156
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Worth watching. It may answer quite a few questions.
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Col. Batguano
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I built a Vincent but had Pecatonica drill and install the rib for me. I knew their skill would be better than mine. The consensus opinion is generally to leave yourself .100" of barrel wall thickness under the screw.. If you use a square bottom bit (and tap) you can get full contact all the way to the bottom
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I think that it would be best for me to do as you have. Drilling the holes is not an issue for me as I have a drill press & cross vise. I also have the required #38 drill bit. That much is easy. It's the fear of breaking that little tap that bothers me! It's good to know that Pecatonica offers that service as they are the ones I will be buying the barrel from.
Walkingeagle
54 Cal.
What about soldering?
Walk
Walk
I have definitely thought about it. I watched a video of Larry Potter (MidwayUSA) soldering a rib on a double barreled shotgun. He made it look easy but . . . I think I'll pass on that.
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I am in the process right now of making an underhammer with just a section of forstock. (11") This rifle needs a rib on a tapered barrel, and it will be soldered. The concern for me is that the underlugs are also soldered, and are now on. When I solder the rib, I have to keep the heat where the rib is to be soldered, while keeping the underlugs from coming off. Me, not wanting holes in my barrels, prefer solder. If you want holes go for it, just don't go any deeper than is safe.
I followed TOW's instructions on my half stock Hawken.
Mount this rib with four (4) of our #SCREW-5-40-R rib screws, to allow easy dis-assembly, browning, and soldering of the rod pipes. We also offer #SCREW-6-40-R rib screws, in case of a stripped 5-40 thread. You may need our #TAP-5-40-P plug tap to start each hole, and #TAP-5-40-B bottom tap. Leave at least .050" or more wall thickness. Measure twice! Avoid drilling too deep!
Mount this rib with four (4) of our #SCREW-5-40-R rib screws, to allow easy dis-assembly, browning, and soldering of the rod pipes. We also offer #SCREW-6-40-R rib screws, in case of a stripped 5-40 thread. You may need our #TAP-5-40-P plug tap to start each hole, and #TAP-5-40-B bottom tap. Leave at least .050" or more wall thickness. Measure twice! Avoid drilling too deep!
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I had TOW drill and tap the screws for my under barrel rib. Also had them solder the ramrod pipes to the rib. It just made my life a bit easier.
Walkingeagle
54 Cal.
It takes a significant amount of heat to remelt solder than to do a new solder. An old still maker taught me that years ago (in my youth).
Walk
Walk
Scota@4570
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Solder it. It is easy. IF you botch it you get a do over. Drilling holes can go wrong. Using screws or rivets leaves the space between the rib and barrel fair game for rust. I have never screwed or riveted a rib and never will.
Tin the barrel rib and thimbles. Use steel wool and acid paste flux. Wash the flux off and re flux with rosin flux. Jig the rib, thimble and barrel with a steel rod the the size of your ramrod and use C-clamps and wire with wedges. Starting at the muzzle heat the assembly with a two of propane torches until he solder melts. Add a bit of rosin core solder to the joint to fill it. The solder will wick into the joint. Work you way down the barrel about 4" at a time. There is no need to heat it all at once.
Tin the barrel rib and thimbles. Use steel wool and acid paste flux. Wash the flux off and re flux with rosin flux. Jig the rib, thimble and barrel with a steel rod the the size of your ramrod and use C-clamps and wire with wedges. Starting at the muzzle heat the assembly with a two of propane torches until he solder melts. Add a bit of rosin core solder to the joint to fill it. The solder will wick into the joint. Work you way down the barrel about 4" at a time. There is no need to heat it all at once.
You can always use "SUPA GLOO". Not very traditional but then nor is screwing. Go with the soldering option. Once it's done it's done and you may learn a lot on the way. OLD DOG..
I use Solder-It paste silver bearing solder. It has the flux mixed in with the solder. It's really easy to use. Just clean the metal well, apply the paste, clamp it together and hit it with a propane torch. You can find it at Home Depot or online.
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A hint that will make your clean up easier if soldering-use a carpenters pencil on the side of the rib and barrel next to your solder joint. Solder won’t stick to the graphite.
Col. Batguano
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Yeah I had Pecatonica grind the rib so the pipes' entries were flush with the rib as well. I think they soldered them on as well. It's been quite a few years now so I don't necessarily remember, and I haven't taken the rib off since I finished the build.
Since this was my first build, and I (at the time) lacked experience, an X-Y vice for my drill press, or confidenceIn my machining abilities to limit depth (didn't even think about the tap braking), I felt that I had enough on my plate already. For the $20 they charged per operation (at the time) I thought it was money well spent.
I prefer to solder them on. Look around there should be some videos somewhere to guide you for the first time. It is not difficult.
Good double guns were always soldered, right up to and including the cartridge era. Can't imagine drilling in one of the old damascus barrels. It might be ok but would make me nervous as a cat.
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I have tried that solder, and have issues with it causing a splattered looking solder joint. Meaning not one of solid fluid metal adhesion. What might I be doing wrong or is just a matter of fact?
Scota@4570
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I you are having trouble with soldering, read my instructions above. Do as I suggested. You will have no issues.
If you do go down the solder route, find a piece of metal rod ( brass or steel ) that slides easily down the barrel. Set the rib and thimble where you want them in your vise with lead or wood faces on the jaws,get every thing else ready. HEAT the metal rod hot enough to melt solder but don't let any solder stick, push the rod down the tube and let it heat it .Then start your solder job. As soon as you finish soldering pull the rod out and let ever thing cool. The old boys used to use a piece of Mole skin to wipe excess solder away. Very satisfying when you get it right..OLD DOG..
