Under lug staple vs. dovetail under lug

[loaderlover]

Hello
I picked up a TC Renegade stock at an auction and am making a 20 gauge (colerain turkey barrel) shotgun. Can't decide weather to attach barrel with under lug staple or the TC dovetail under lug both using a wedge key. Would staple be strong enough for recoil is my concern? Have used staple 2 on a 50 cal. long rifle W/33" barrel with a fast twist barrel using 90 grains 3F powder using a .235 grain lead bullet W/sabot and have not had a problem. Am using Track Of The Wolf's UL104A staple, I do have enough room on barrel flat to set double staples if necessary?
Thanks Ed

 

[longcruise]

I don't care for the track staples. They seem a little anemic. Staples made with nails have worked very well on three barrels for me.

 

[Zonie]

I've used staples on several of the guns I've built but I go the extra mile when I install them.

After making sure the staple and the holes in the barrel are completely free of any kind of oil, I put the staple in and tap it down to seat it. Then, I use the staking tool to close the enterance to the holes. Following this, I flux the area and soft solder the legs of the staple to the staked hole mouths.

Never had one pull loose when I did this.

 

[loaderlover]

Thank you I do stake them but I will also solder them.
Ed

 

[Scota@4570]

I've done both. I prefer dovetailed lugs. By installing a lug then marking the pin or wedge hole I find I get a more accurately placed slot or pin hole. I do believe dovetailed and secured with Locktite 680 the lugs are much stronger. Properly done lugs grow out of the bottom of the barrel with hardly a visible seam. Staples can get messy looking. I also do not want to drill through a barrel or dent the bore staking the staple in place. I do have a milling machine and that makes doing a clean accurate job straight forward.

 

[Vaino]

Hello
I picked up a TC Renegade stock at an auction and am making a 20 gauge (colerain turkey barrel) shotgun. Can't decide weather to attach barrel with under lug staple or the TC dovetail under lug both using a wedge key. Would staple be strong enough for recoil is my concern? Have used staple 2 on a 50 cal. long rifle W/33" barrel with a fast twist barrel using 90 grains 3F powder using a .235 grain lead bullet W/sabot and have not had a problem. Am using Track Of The Wolf's UL104A staple, I do have enough room on barrel flat to set double staples if necessary?
Thanks Ed

On my first 3 LRs, staples were used that were made from nails ...aprox.1/8 dia. After forming and filing the legs to final length, a very small chamfer is filed on the end of the legs. A groove is then filed around each leg leaving slightly less than 1/32" flat from the leg end.
The 2 holes are located and centerpunched and are first drilled w/ an angled point drill and finished w/ a flat bottom drill to a depth so the grooves on the staple legs are centered w/ the bbl flat. The hole should be a slight press fit w/ the staple legs.
The staples are inserted into the holes and the bbl steel is peened into the grooves w/ an angled punch. The surrounding area is filed flat w/ the bbl surface.
The horizontal dia between the legs of the staple is filed flat on both sides to 1/16" thick. The gap between the bbl surface and the flat bottom surface of staple is greater than the wedge thickness....the wedge when inserted only contacts the inside of the staple....not the bbl.
After the first 3 builds I used dovetailed bbl lugs because they were easier and less time consuming to install than staples....had no problems w/ the staples.....Fred

 

[EC121]

Recoil should be straight back. If the lug or loop is slotted and the breech fit is solid, there shouldn't be much pressure from recoil.

 

[loaderlover]

Recoil should be straight back. If the lug or loop is slotted and the breech fit is solid, there shouldn't be much pressure from recoil.

Thanks that was my thinking just wanted to hear it from someone else
Thank you
Ed

 

[M. De Land]

Either will work fine if done correctly but barrel wall thickness has a lot to do with the decision. Thin barrel walls only work with sweat on barrel/stock lugs. One more minor point for long and thin barrels is they will be more rigid without dove tail cuts in them.