Ug; idiot rookie mistake, bullet stuck in barrel.

[Marine Sniper]

I finally had some time to take my Whitworth to the range. The goal was to just make the rifle go "boom." which it did- but now I know why bullets are lubed.

Not knowing any better after I shot it the first time (60 grains 3F / 580 gr. Hex bullet) 1000 fps, like I said I just wanted to shoot the rifle. The boom and the smell were awesome, I am hooked.

Anyway- the next bullet got stuck about halfway down the barrel, of course it has powder behind it.

How do I get the slug out?

 

[bubba.50]

Find a grease zerk that will fit the nipple threads, insert it finger tight, get a grease gun and pump it out.

 

[Big Bubba]

I used to unload my hawken just using an air compressor with a blow nozzle.

 

[TreeMan]

Do you have a range rod or are you using the rifles rod? I’ve never had a tight ball I couldn’t beat down the barrel with a range rod.

 

[PathfinderNC]

However you approach this, I am wondering about safety. Is there a way to get the powder out first? (Maybe remove the nipple and dump it, or drip some light oil into the powder charge??) It would make me so nervous working on it with powder inside...

 

[deermanok]

A good range rod and a hammer. You should be able to tap the bullet all the way down.

 

[Ponderosaman]

A good range rod and a hammer. You should be able to tap the bullet all the way down.

As you say, working in a technician/engineer role my whole life seems a tough range rod and a hammer is the only way to go for this problem. A deadblow would make short work. The lead will give long before the steel barrel and the force of the gunpowder behind the bullet is far more destructive of a force then tapping with a hammer. Then you shoot it out and if you continue to have stuck balls, you would make appropriate changes to fix the issue, like you mentioned with the lube.

 

[Whitworth]

Wow, stuck after only one shot? Paper patched or bare bullet? With the bore sloped slighty down push a wet patch down to the bullet and let it soak a minute of two to soak by the bullet and soften the fouling holding it, remove the patch and try seating again. With the bore down your powder charge should stay dry.

 

[JohnnieT]

Yup, range rod and a hammer. Don’t worry, it’s not likely you’ll damage anything as long as you do it carefully. As far as a stuck ball...meh, it happens. You’ll probably do it again sometime. Don’t stress it. Resolve it carefully then go make more smoke. We all improve as we go.

 

[ResearchPress]

I note several follow up posts refer to a stuck ball. Note that this is a hexagonally rifled Whitworth with a mechanically fitting hexagonal 580 grain bullet (usually paper patched, not lubed) - with its long bearing surface it likely won’t shift as easily as a ball. If trying to tap down, try and source/make a rod tip that fits the bullet nose - you don’t want it moving and scraping down the rifling. Use a rod guide at the muzzle to prevent damage there.

David

 

[S.Kenton]

I would also add, I wouldn’t use a hammer per say, rather I’d use use a heavy wooden mallet or plastic dead blow.. a hammer may mushroom the ends of your range rod

 

[Capnball]

My understanding of Whitworth is the tolerances are very very close. If it were my rifle I'd be swabbing between shots. I have a Pedersoli flintlock and it never shoots better then when I wet swab then dry swab between shots. Im also going to be using a powder drop funnel this year. I know all the powder burns in the barrel but there's enough evidence to support a full powder charge behind the ball rather
then losing an unknown portion in the rifling grooves. I know it's all fussy but it's hard to argue with the results. 100 yard shot groups all day and your Whitworth is capable of much much more. Good luck, let us know how you make out getting that hexagonal, helical projectile out of the barrel.
Neil

 

[Marine Sniper]

My understanding of Whitworth is the tolerances are very very close. If it were my rifle I'd be swabbing between shots. I have a Pedersoli flintlock and it never shoots better then when I wet swab then dry swab between shots. Im also going to be using a powder drop funnel this year. I know all the powder burns in the barrel but there's enough evidence to support a full powder charge behind the ball rather
then losing an unknown portion in the rifling grooves. I know it's all fussy but it's hard to argue with the results. 100 yard shot groups all day and your Whitworth is capable of much much more. Good luck, let us know how you make out getting that hexagonal, helical projectile out of the barrel.
Neil

I have thought the same thing re" swabbing between shots- can you detail your procedure?

 

[ResearchPress]

My understanding of Whitworth is the tolerances are very very close. If it were my rifle I'd be swabbing between shots. . . . . . Im also going to be using a powder drop funnel this year. . . . . I know it's all fussy but it's hard to argue with the results.

Keep in mind this is a reproduction so don't expect tolerances differing from any other of the fine Pedersoli line. If you're planning on using a powder drop funnel, then be very sure to check it after loading powder - they have been known not to release the powder, resulting in a bullet loaded without powder, and the subsequent load then dropping two powder charges in. Few people use drop tubes at international level. A tight fitting wad after powder is loaded will sweep the bore.

David

 

[Capnball]

I have thought the same thing re" swabbing between shots- can you detail your procedure?

I use a wet patch, sold as solvent coated patches. A wet patch can be water also. Once up and down the barrel , then a dry patch up and down once, then a lubed patch on a round ball. Goes in be-ut-ti-ful every time. Not too hard, not too loose. It takes a little bit longer between shots but the deal with long range shooting is consistency. Black powder is inherently dirty and each shot the barrel gets a little dirtier. That will absolutely impact consistency.
I understand Whitworths use a very unusual cartridge wrapped in paper. A very good bullet mold is going to be critical. Using the same size, same weight paper will be just as important. I premeasure my powder charges as well. I have a set of small plastic tubes with caps that I preload the night before. Anything else? I'd be happy to answer.

 

[ResearchPress]

I have thought the same thing re" swabbing between shots- can you detail your procedure?

Cleaning between shots is common practice today with long range muzzle loaders such as the Whitworth, and method may vary depending on the bullet used;

Most commonly, after a shot has been fired powder is loaded followed by a tight fitting wad (user preference on form... plain card, lubed card, felt...). For the Whitworth, source a hexagonal wad cutter. The wad will sweep the bore and seal the powder in place. Follow this by a damp patch then dry. Patch could be used with black powder cleaning solution, some use windscreen cleaner solutions - whatever you find effective. Once swabbed and dried then seat the bullet.

If using an original style hollow base Whitworth bullet then these can be sat directly on the powder. In this case and to keep the charge dry, after the shot is fired swab and dry the bore. At this point it may be prudent to return to the firing point and and cap off to make sure the flash hole is still clear. Then add powder and seat bullet.

I have some introductary information on long range muzzle loading on my web site that may help. Also browse the gunmaker section for historical information on Whitworth.

David

 

[ResearchPress]

I understand Whitworths use a very unusual cartridge wrapped in paper.

There were several forms of Whitworth cartridge and none are currently commercially available. Cylindrical or hexagonal mechanically fitting paper patched bullets can be used. With soft lead the cylindrical bullets will 'bump' up to the hexagonal section. Grease groove bullets can also be used.

David

 

[jimairwin]

Yup, range rod and a hammer. Don’t worry, it’s not likely you’ll damage anything as long as you do it carefully. As far as a stuck ball...meh, it happens. You’ll probably do it again sometime. Don’t stress it. Resolve it carefully then go make more smoke. We all improve as we go.

If "tapping" down, do so gently. A hard blow will bulge the bullet making it tighter in the bore. Dribble some Kroil or ATF diluted with zylene and let it sit muzzle up for a few hours.
Then resume tapping

There were several forms of Whitworth cartridge and none are currently commercially available. Cylindrical or hexagonal mechanically fitting paper patched bullets can be used. With soft lead the cylindrical bullets will 'bump' up to the hexagonal section. Grease groove bullets can also be used.

David

There is no "cartridge" for Whitworth, and paper patch was not used, though I see no reason patched cylindrical bullets would not work, so long as lubed and tough cotton paper used for the patch.

 

[ResearchPress]

There is no "cartridge" for Whitworth, and paper patch was not used, though I see no reason patched cylindrical bullets would not work, so long as lubed and tough cotton paper used for the patch.

On what do you base the assertion that there is no "cartridge" for Whitworth or that paper patch was not used?

There were different forms of Whitworth's own design cartridge and for both cyclindrical and hexagonal section bullets. Additionally there was a British regulation pattern cartridge used when the rifles were issued for troop trials. From Whitworth's own loading instuctions - "The cylindrical form of projectile is the best for general use. It is 530 grains in weight and is wrapped with paper. " - which goes on to say: " To save the trouble of weighing the charges, and pressing the projectiles, it is recommended to use the Whitworth Patent Cartridge." That's on my web site. Whitworth also manufactured bullet moulds for cylindrical and hexagonal section bullets.

Unlubed paper patched bullets are still used by riflemen today that shoot original and/or reproduction Whitworth rifles.

Additional sources, see:
"The English Connection" by Russ A Pritchard & C.A. Huey (Thomas Publications, 2014, ISBN 978-1-57747-181-3) - there are plenty of photographs of bullets, cartridges and their packaging.
"The Confederate Whitworth Sharpshooter" by J.A. Morrow (Privately published 1989 & 2002) - cartridges and patched bullets illustrated.


David

 

[flntlokr]

I finally had some time to take my Whitworth to the range. The goal was to just make the rifle go "boom." which it did- but now I know why bullets are lubed.

Not knowing any better after I shot it the first time (60 grains 3F / 580 gr. Hex bullet) 1000 fps, like I said I just wanted to shoot the rifle. The boom and the smell were awesome, I am hooked.

Anyway- the next bullet got stuck about halfway down the barrel, of course it has powder behind it.

How do I get the slug out?

Find a metal ramrod, and pound it down to the powder and then shoot it out. Or apply air or other pressure via the nipple and force it out from behind.