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Uberti 1849 Pocket Revolver Range Report

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This week I ordered this revolver from MidwayUSA and it was delivered the next day (I live about 90 miles from their MO store). Came with no warranty info and Midway doesn't accept returns on guns.

Initial operation was very rough. Hammer sticky when pulled back. Cylinder did not rotate correctly and had to be manually adjusted to get the firing position. Took pistol apart and reassembled to fix those problems. Operation then seemed OK.

At the range, I loaded about 8gr 777 and used CCI #10 caps on the OEM nipples. Hard to find the proper size lead balls (Uberti recommends .330"). Turns out that 00 buckshot is .330". I had some 00 shotshells and removed the balls from a couple of them until I could find some. Caps seemed to fit reasonably well. 00 balls seated OK. Didn't have any .31 wads and .36 wads wouldn't fit. So I seated the ball on top of the powder and then lubed the cylinders well with Bore Butter. Test firing was not good. Only 2 caps fired out of the five I loaded. Cylinders fired OK on those. Tried CCI #10 and #11 and Remington #10 caps. No improvement. However, when the gun did fire, it was pretty accurate. Very little recoil, nice smoke!!

Returned home to change out the nipples. Had some SliXshot nipples for a Uberti 1861 Navy 36 caliber. Those fit perfectly. Put Remington #10 caps on (needed a firm push to seat all the way). All five cylinders then test fired OK.

I know that SliXshot says that their Uberti nipples are not for this model but I have since read that this caution was for older model pocket revolvers. I wasn't able to match any of the proof marks to serial number info on the 'net.

This gun is small but I can still hold it comfortably. My little finger sits below the bottom of the grip. Cocking operation using a two-handed grip is normal.

I ordered a hammer spring based on YouTube info that suggested the reason for the caps not firing may be inadequate hammer striking force. At about $7, no big deal. I won't install it if the gun continues to perform as it did today with the new nipples.

One other note. Once disassembled, many of the frame and parts edges were quite sharp. I ran a piece of emery paper along those edges to 'soften' them up a little. No metal removal, just a bit of dulling an unnecessarily sharp edge.
 
I bought one these from Cabelas many years ago. It would not fire on any chamber. Close inspection revealed a small pimple in the frame opposite the arbor that prevented the hammer from making contact. A little grinding with a Dremel solved the problem. Sometimes Uberti quality control is not what it should be. The 5 shooters have a distinctive rough feel when cocking. Not as smooth as a 6 shooter. And like all open top Colt designs the little one shot about a foot high.
 
The 5 shooters have a distinctive rough feel when cocking. Not as smooth as a 6 shooter. And like all open top Colt designs the little one shot about a foot high.

I think so too. My Uberti 36 Navy cocks smoother but the difference now is much less. I'm really happy with the Pocket Revolver, a beauty and now that my firing issues seem to be fixed, a very happy purchase.
 
Pic shows silver SliXshot nipples and short loading lever.
 

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I just received my Uberti 1849 pocket Friday.
What hammer spring did you order, and where? Just in case I have issues with mine.
Also, where is a good place to get the Slixshot nipples?
 

The Uberti manual calls for .330" lead balls. Hard to find in my area but 00 buckshot is .330" and a little easier to get. Each shell has 9 balls in it. Be sure to get lead balls. You can find .31" lubed wads at Track Of The Wolf. I'm using fff 777 and reducing the loads by 15% (since I shoot relatively mild loads, that works out to about 8gr.) If I use Pyrodex, I load 10gr. I'm using Remington #10 caps, find them at Cabelas/Bass Pro to avoid HAZMAT shipping charges.
 
This week I ordered this revolver from MidwayUSA and it was delivered the next day (I live about 90 miles from their MO store). Came with no warranty info and Midway doesn't accept returns on guns.

Initial operation was very rough. Hammer sticky when pulled back. Cylinder did not rotate correctly and had to be manually adjusted to get the firing position. Took pistol apart and reassembled to fix those problems. Operation then seemed OK.

At the range, I loaded about 8gr 777 and used CCI #10 caps on the OEM nipples. Hard to find the proper size lead balls (Uberti recommends .330"). Turns out that 00 buckshot is .330". I had some 00 shotshells and removed the balls from a couple of them until I could find some. Caps seemed to fit reasonably well. 00 balls seated OK. Didn't have any .31 wads and .36 wads wouldn't fit. So I seated the ball on top of the powder and then lubed the cylinders well with Bore Butter. Test firing was not good. Only 2 caps fired out of the five I loaded. Cylinders fired OK on those. Tried CCI #10 and #11 and Remington #10 caps. No improvement. However, when the gun did fire, it was pretty accurate. Very little recoil, nice smoke!!

Returned home to change out the nipples. Had some SliXshot nipples for a Uberti 1861 Navy 36 caliber. Those fit perfectly. Put Remington #10 caps on (needed a firm push to seat all the way). All five cylinders then test fired OK.

I know that SliXshot says that their Uberti nipples are not for this model but I have since read that this caution was for older model pocket revolvers. I wasn't able to match any of the proof marks to serial number info on the 'net.

This gun is small but I can still hold it comfortably. My little finger sits below the bottom of the grip. Cocking operation using a two-handed grip is normal.

I ordered a hammer spring based on YouTube info that suggested the reason for the caps not firing may be inadequate hammer striking force. At about $7, no big deal. I won't install it if the gun continues to perform as it did today with the new nipples.

One other note. Once disassembled, many of the frame and parts edges were quite sharp. I ran a piece of emery paper along those edges to 'soften' them up a little. No metal removal, just a bit of dulling an unnecessarily sharp edge.

They are chambers, not cylinders.
You may want to install the stronger hammer spring anyway if you get fired cap jams. The heavier spring will keep the busted caps on the nipples instead of allowing them to be blown down into the hammer slot.
 
They are chambers, not cylinders.

Thank you. Let me rephrase what I was trying to say. Initially, when the hammer was pulled back to the full cock position, the cylinder rotated but when it stopped, the next chamber nipple was not under the hammer. I had to manually turn the cylinder a little bit more until it "clicked" into the correct position. Once taken apart and cleaned, this problem seems to have gone away.
 
I've been unable to locate .330" balls, .330" ball molds, and 00 buckshot locally or online.
I did locate .350" balls locally. If the extra .020" OD proves too much for loading on the frame, I'll load off the frame using a press.

Thanks for the link to the Slixshot nipples.
I don't see an extra power Uberti spring, though.
 
I've been unable to locate .330" balls, .330" ball molds, and 00 buckshot locally or online.
I did locate .350" balls locally. If the extra .020" OD proves too much for loading on the frame, I'll load off the frame using a press.

Thanks for the link to the Slixshot nipples.
I don't see an extra power Uberti spring, though.

I have only found 12ga 00 buckshot shells. I'll remove the .330 balls from them.

I got an email from Taylors today saying that they are out of hammer springs.
 
Thank you. Let me rephrase what I was trying to say. Initially, when the hammer was pulled back to the full cock position, the cylinder rotated but when it stopped, the next chamber nipple was not under the hammer. I had to manually turn the cylinder a little bit more until it "clicked" into the correct position. Once taken apart and cleaned, this problem seems to have gone away.
it has been some time since I bought a new in the box replica. Possibly 30 years? Anyway, most seemed to come with some sort of nasty civilian version of cosmolene in the works and often rough internal edges, burrs and what not all as well. Glad to see you’re working it out. 500 balls down range it will be a completely different animal.
 
Update to range report.

Here are the results of yesterday's continued firing of the 1849 Uberti. I used about 8gr of FFFg 777, a .31 Wonder Wad, and a .330 lead ball (buckshot from a shotgun shell. Still unable to find commercial .330 balls). SliXshot nipples and Remington #10 caps. Ball seats down in the chamber with maybe 1/8" from top of the ball to the chamber mouth.

First, much improvement in cap ignition and gun firing. Only one misfire in 30 shots, and that cap fired when tried for the second time (maybe had not been seated all the way at first).

Serious problem with cap jams. By cap jams, I mean that the fired caps fragmented (split apart) on the nipple and prevented the cylinder from rotating for the next shot. Most spent caps remained in the nipple area and did not fall into other parts of the action. Most required a tool (dental pick, etc) for removal.

Otherwise, the gun was fun to shoot. I shot off hand, standing about 25yds from a torso sized metal gong target. Bullet drop was noticeable (low muzzle velocity) so I aimed at the upper chest area. Moving back to about 40yds, I wasn't able to hit the target as often. No shooting on paper so can't comment on groups. Maybe next time!

Hammer action became a little rough as firing went on. Getting into the half cock position was "iffy" at times. I wrote this off as fouling, don't think a cap was the problem.

The nipple area is a tight fit and placing the cap on the nipple required more effort than it does for my .36 1861. An in line capper was ineffective (difficult to get it to seat the cap on the nipple).

Next time I'll try different caps and see if this changes anything.
 
Which slixshot nipples did you use on your Uberti 1849 pocket?

The action on mine is smooth. I'd like to get Slixshot nipples for it and my Uberti 1862 police.
 
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