triggernometry

[bushnell60]

I am building a Carolina long rifle and I am using a left hand L&R lock and double set triggers. When I had it assembled in the white the triggers worked. I took it apart and finished the stock and barrel and put it together and the triggers in set mode wont set the lock off now. I can pull the front trigger and it is maybe 5 lbs. It sets the lock off. I have checked wood interference, and checked to see that the trigger plate is seated in the trigger guard ok. The set trigger hits the sear arm and if I trip it 3 or 4 times it works sometimes. Should I grind the lock sear leaf spring thinner to make the trip easier or do you guys have any better ideas? Thanks

 

[MSW]

I wouldn't grind away anything just yet. have you disassembled, cleaned and re-lubed the trigger?

not trying to 'throw stones-' just asking ... I'd hate to see you grind away at a spring unless it really needs it ... this really is a 'last resort' solution.

good luck with your project!

 

[LRB]

If all else is ok, I would. I always do anyway. Most sear springs are much stronger than necessary. If you do, grind away a little width before you think about actually thining the spring. I do both, but thining takes great care. Do not let it over heat. Double check everything else first.

 

[Birddog6]

Most likely, the Lock nor the Trigger changed when you finished the rifle. The WOOD changed.

Blacken things on the Lock & on the Trigger & reinstall & see what is hitting where. Remove wood as needed. I think you are binding it up someplace.

Also, you might tighten the tension on the leaf spring of the trigger. Sounds like it is not flipping the trigger hard enough to trip the sear.
Also look under the spring & see if it is bottoming out on the triggerplate. May need to put a small shim under the Rear of the spring to give clearance.

Keith Lisle

 

[don hepler]

If a trigger plate is inletted to much, you will not have the clearance to set the trigger. When you cock the hammer, the sear bar must move down, just a tiny bit before it goes into full cock. One way to check, is to shim the trigger plate down, and see if it works. I have a couple rifles with shim in them, that's how I know.

The trigger bar is under spring loaded tension, and it goes up and slaps the sear bar. It should not rest against the sear bar.

 

[Eterry]

If it was working fine before you finished the wood then I definitely wouldn't start by grinding metal. The change in humidity here caused me to have to re-inlet the trigger plate and lock on my build, so I'd agree with Keith and check for fit first.

 

[Zonie]

Check the depth of the clearance hole for the locks sear arm. It might be bottoming out in the hole.

 

[bushnell60]

Well I got the triggers working and I want to thank everyone for the suggestions and help. What I found was that the triggers were not set in the stock deep enough to hit the sear very hard when they were set and released. They were at the end of the release arc. I went ahead and lightened the sear spring by grinding and cooling the side of the spring thus making it thinner. That helped the whole lock function a lot. Then I chiseled the trigger in the stock so that it just has about a 1/32 inch clearance on the cocked sear. It works great now.

 

[Grizzly Adams]

Glad to hear it! :thumbsup: