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TRIGGER!!!!!!!!!

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pipascus

40 Cal.
Joined
Oct 18, 2005
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Location
White Mountains, Arizona
Hello everyone. Been away for a while and now am living in Colorado.

I am still stuck with the trigger on my Jim Chambers Mark Silver Virginia Rifle!!! It's driving me NUTS! :surrender:

I see there are videos, like the Ron Elhert one, but they seem to cover other trigger systems, not the early one of the Mark Silver Rifle.

My trigger is affixed by means of a pin through the stock. I think the trigger has to be cut down at an angle???

Does anyone have info. on how to do this?

I also am tight on funds right now and would rather spend $ on a Mark Baker video to earn about trekking, or on a mold, etc, than on a how to rifle video I will likely not use again.

Any help, comments, suggestions??????

Thanks!
 
I just built one of these guns, and the trigger was the easiest pinned trigger I ever did. What I did was to bottom out the trigger onto the trigger plate and where it looked right. I then figure out where the little rounded area on the top of the trigger would be, drilled the hole (it came out behind the side plate) and pinned it.

I did not need to tune mine as it worked fine the first time. If yours needs tuning, just take a little bit off the top of the step (as shown on the little sheet with the drawing) until it goes into half- and full-cock notches. Once you have this, polish up everything until it is smooth and you are good to go. I like to taper the top of the blade a bit (thinner at the top where it bears on the sear bar, less friction).

Best of luck,
Albert
 
People use videos to learn how to build rifles? Dang. Kits and videos. Where is it going to end?

At some level I am joking but at another level, one of the best reasons to build a rifle is to understand better how they work.

If you are using a simple trigger, pinned in the stock, then all that is needed is to make sure that the height of the trigger bar, where it contacts the sear arm, is equal to the distance from the trigger plate to the sear bar, minus a smidgeon.

Take your trigger and paint the whole right side (lock side) with a wide magic marker. With the lock out of the mortise, put the trigger and trigger plate in place, and have a look-see down in the hole for the sear arm. You can tell if it's too high. Stick a sharp nail down there and do some scratching.

Now cut or file the trigger blade to just above that scratch mark and test it out with the lock. File off a little more if the lock will not engage both full and half-cock notches readily. Test and fit, test and fit.
 
rich pierce said:
People use videos to learn how to build rifles? Dang. Kits and videos. Where is it going to end?

At some level I am joking but at another level, one of the best reasons to build a rifle is to understand better how they work.

If you are using a simple trigger, pinned in the stock, then all that is needed is to make sure that the height of the trigger bar, where it contacts the sear arm, is equal to the distance from the trigger plate to the sear bar, minus a smidgeon.

Take your trigger and paint the whole right side (lock side) with a wide magic marker. With the lock out of the mortise, put the trigger and trigger plate in place, and have a look-see down in the hole for the sear arm. You can tell if it's too high. Stick a sharp nail down there and do some scratching.

Now cut or file the trigger blade to just above that scratch mark and test it out with the lock. File off a little more if the lock will not engage both full and half-cock notches readily. Test and fit, test and fit.

I'm a visual learner. I can read a book on how to do something, but if the author isn't using words to paint a clear picture in my head, then it's worthless. The 3 hour video that Jim Chambers gave me really helped me understand what all those books were talking about.

That being said, Rich, I like that idea and will use it when I go to fit my trigger in. That makes more sense that how it was explained on the DVD I have.
 
I'm a reader, always have been, so the DVD thing does not appeal to me. I can be a wiseguy sometimes. Usually a buddy will knock my hat off and then I get the idea it's time to be more polite.
 
rich pierce said:
People use videos to learn how to build rifles? Dang. Kits and videos. Where is it going to end?

At some level I am joking but at another level, one of the best reasons to build a rifle is to understand better how they work.

If you are using a simple trigger, pinned in the stock, then all that is needed is to make sure that the height of the trigger bar, where it contacts the sear arm, is equal to the distance from the trigger plate to the sear bar, minus a smidgeon.

Take your trigger and paint the whole right side (lock side) with a wide magic marker. With the lock out of the mortise, put the trigger and trigger plate in place, and have a look-see down in the hole for the sear arm. You can tell if it's too high. Stick a sharp nail down there and do some scratching.

Now cut or file the trigger blade to just above that scratch mark and test it out with the lock. File off a little more if the lock will not engage both full and half-cock notches readily. Test and fit, test and fit.

Rich, I like your point. I am still a long way from understanding the longrifle, but until I
started pulling things apart and handling pieces, I could never understand the relationship of those parts as a whole. I still have a long way to go and a short time to get there, but WOW, these guns and their workings are simple brilliance. Thanks for your idea of the trigger location. I have screwed that one up myself and had to buy another trigger (for me, even a file can be a power tool out of control). Next time I will make my own trigger and try your suggestion.
Dan
 
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