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trigger install
- Thread starter JohnN
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mikemeteor
45 Cal.
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- Nov 16, 2008
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It should not bear directly on the sear when at rest. Very dangerous.
Col. Batguano
75 Cal.
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- Feb 10, 2011
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With a pinned trigger, I like it right against the sear bar. I don't like any slack to take up with the trigger.
IMO, MeteorMan is correct.
There should always be a small amount of clearance between the trigger blade and the sear arm.
It would be nice if the arm was always in the same place but the sear and its arm on most of the locks we use will be in three different places when the lock is in the fired position, at half cock and at full cock.
The clearance between the trigger blade and the sear arm when the lock is in the fired position is not important but at half-cock and full-cock its another matter.
I set the lock to full cock when installing a trigger as this is the most important position.
The trigger must never be touching the sear arm with the lock at full cock.
If it is it will prevent the sear from fully engaging the tumblers full cock notch.
Once the trigger is installed so it doesn't touch the sear arm at full cock, I check out the half-cock position. If the trigger is tight (touching the sear arm) I remove the trigger and file off a tiny amount from the blade and try it again.
When it just barely clears the arm, I'm done.
IMO, guns are not the place to risk an accidental discharge just because someone might like a snug trigger.
There should always be a small amount of clearance between the trigger blade and the sear arm.
It would be nice if the arm was always in the same place but the sear and its arm on most of the locks we use will be in three different places when the lock is in the fired position, at half cock and at full cock.
The clearance between the trigger blade and the sear arm when the lock is in the fired position is not important but at half-cock and full-cock its another matter.
I set the lock to full cock when installing a trigger as this is the most important position.
The trigger must never be touching the sear arm with the lock at full cock.
If it is it will prevent the sear from fully engaging the tumblers full cock notch.
Once the trigger is installed so it doesn't touch the sear arm at full cock, I check out the half-cock position. If the trigger is tight (touching the sear arm) I remove the trigger and file off a tiny amount from the blade and try it again.
When it just barely clears the arm, I'm done.
IMO, guns are not the place to risk an accidental discharge just because someone might like a snug trigger.
- Joined
- Jan 30, 2014
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I got my single trigger from another company as a kit.
However, if your trigger is like mine keep this in mind. My pivot is not drilled, but it does has a casted indent where you think you might need to put it. However, you can drill is farther back if you need to. The book I am using to build says to keep the pivot about 1/4" forward of the sear.
I took a slight break on building my first rifle to fix up the current ones I own as that book says. I relocated the trigger on 2 other muzzleloaders like the book says. A complete day and night difference. Even if your trigger is already drilled, you can redrill a new hole.
Here's the topic where I got a pic of the pivot pin relocation I did.
http://www.muzzleloadingforum.com/...293783/post/1471201/hl//fromsearch/1/#1471201
There are guys who know a ton more than me on here. However, I set those triggers with a touch less than 1/4" play.
However, if your trigger is like mine keep this in mind. My pivot is not drilled, but it does has a casted indent where you think you might need to put it. However, you can drill is farther back if you need to. The book I am using to build says to keep the pivot about 1/4" forward of the sear.
I took a slight break on building my first rifle to fix up the current ones I own as that book says. I relocated the trigger on 2 other muzzleloaders like the book says. A complete day and night difference. Even if your trigger is already drilled, you can redrill a new hole.
Here's the topic where I got a pic of the pivot pin relocation I did.
http://www.muzzleloadingforum.com/...293783/post/1471201/hl//fromsearch/1/#1471201
There are guys who know a ton more than me on here. However, I set those triggers with a touch less than 1/4" play.
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On the single trigger rifles I've built I locate the pivot point for the trigger about 5/16" in front of the sear arm.
Typically, that gives a trigger pull weight of about 1 1/2 to 2 pounds.
Works for me. :grin:
Typically, that gives a trigger pull weight of about 1 1/2 to 2 pounds.
Works for me. :grin:
Stophel
75 Cal.
- Joined
- Jul 8, 2005
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As a general rule (actually, I have yet to see it otherwise) the sear will be at its lowest position at half cock. The trigger needs to have at least a tiny bit of slack at this point, so it's not bearing on the sear, as was stated. Many modern shooters simply cannot stand this... my personal response is "too bad. Deal with it, people 200+ years ago did." :haha:
I don't know how tall the "boss" on the trigger plate you have is, but I can imagine it's too short and may place your pin too low. I have found the ideal location to be at almost the same vertical level as the sear screw (a touch lower, usually) and at a distance of 1/2" from the sear "arm". The pin needs to be high so that the trigger lifts the sear up, and doesn't try to drive it forward (as it will do with a too-low pin), which will just make a heavy, grindy trigger. I once followed all the advice and put a trigger at something like 3/8" or maybe even 1/4" from the sear. Oh, it was a light pull.... when it finally got around to letting off. Very LOOOOONG pull. I have put them at 1/2" ever since and never looked back. The trigger pin distance has very, very, very little to do with the pull weight, which is pretty much determined by the weight of the sear spring and the angles of your fullcock notch/sear nose. :wink:
I don't know how tall the "boss" on the trigger plate you have is, but I can imagine it's too short and may place your pin too low. I have found the ideal location to be at almost the same vertical level as the sear screw (a touch lower, usually) and at a distance of 1/2" from the sear "arm". The pin needs to be high so that the trigger lifts the sear up, and doesn't try to drive it forward (as it will do with a too-low pin), which will just make a heavy, grindy trigger. I once followed all the advice and put a trigger at something like 3/8" or maybe even 1/4" from the sear. Oh, it was a light pull.... when it finally got around to letting off. Very LOOOOONG pull. I have put them at 1/2" ever since and never looked back. The trigger pin distance has very, very, very little to do with the pull weight, which is pretty much determined by the weight of the sear spring and the angles of your fullcock notch/sear nose. :wink:
I use only Chambers' flintlocks and the sear bars at the half and full cock positions are very nearly the same. The ideal positioning would be that the sear bar in the full cock position is lower than at the half cock. I always ensure some gap between the trigger bar and sear bar for complete sear nose/tumbler engagement. Any pretravel caused by the slight gap isn't objectionable to me.
The distance of the trigger pivot to the sear bar engagement point is usually 5/16" and this does increase the pretravel . but who cares? A 2 lb pull is the result.
A properly set up sear nose/tumbler notch engagement has very little trigger creep, so the 5/16" distance between the pivot/sear engagement point doesn't matter much except that it yields a lighter trigger pull....Fred
The distance of the trigger pivot to the sear bar engagement point is usually 5/16" and this does increase the pretravel . but who cares? A 2 lb pull is the result.
A properly set up sear nose/tumbler notch engagement has very little trigger creep, so the 5/16" distance between the pivot/sear engagement point doesn't matter much except that it yields a lighter trigger pull....Fred
Pete G
76 Cal.
If the small amount of play is distracting to you add a light return spring to hold the trigger against the sear.
Good to know, I myself am building several triggers at the moment and find this very useful information. Pivot placement has been something I've been concerned about and your method has proven spot on in my particular situation. Thanks Zonie :thumbsup:
