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Trigger assembly spring

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I was working on my Traditions deerhunter rifle. I had removed the trigger assembly and the little wire spring fell out. It looked like there was a tiny metal plug holding the spring in place, which I can't find. I figured that a good drop of super glue could be an easy fix. I know that traditions triggers aren't the best especially in some of the newer models.
 
I was working on my Traditions deerhunter rifle. I had removed the trigger assembly and the little wire spring fell out. It looked like there was a tiny metal plug holding the spring in place, which I can't find. I figured that a good drop of super glue could be an easy fix. I know that traditions triggers aren't the best especially in some of the newer models.
I believe it is supposed to be a small screw; sorry no idea of size or thread pitch.
 
If your gun has double set triggers, there is a very small hole in the trigger plate located between the triggers. That hole is made for a very small set screw.
The purpose of the screw is to adjust the amount of engagement between the latch on the front trigger and the catch on the rear trigger. Basically it adjusts the amount or distance the front trigger needs to be pulled to release the spring loaded rear trigger to fire the gun.

To adjust this screw place the hammer in the "fired" position. Then cock or set the rear spring loaded trigger until it clicks into the "cocked" position.
Slowly screw the little set screw in (clockwise) until the rear trigger suddenly snaps forward. Now, back out that little screw one full turn. That should be the ideal setting for the triggers. NEVER use the gun if the little screw is screwed in less than one full turn. If it is, the front latch may lose it's engagement with the rear triggers catch and the gun can fire unexpectedly.

You mentioned a small wire spring. I don't own a "Deerhunter" rifle but if I were to guess, it is intended to attach to the front trigger and the trigger plate. By doing this, it would provide a small amount of force to the front trigger to keep it from rattling around when the gun is cocked.
 
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I've read a warning not to "dry-fire" set triggers, i.e. setting & tripping them w/out a cocked hammer.
I understood that meant to provide a limit on the travel of the trigger bar. As delicate as mine looks, /i can give the warning credence, but have not had it confirmed.

What's the conensus of the group? I'm relatively new to set triggers, so I want to gather the best info on their care & adjustment.

Thanks.
 
The rule is, "Don't dry fire set triggers with the lock set at "half cock". With the hammer or cock in the fired position it is perfectly fine to dry fire set triggers.

The reason for not dry firing the gun with the lock set at half cock is because when the lock is set at half cock, the nose of the sear is firmly engaged into a notch in the tumbler. The sear is the arm that has a small, rather thin end on it that engages the full cock notch when the gun is ready to fire. That same end is the area that gets engaged with the half cock notch.

When a set trigger is placed in the "set" condition, its spring loaded "set trigger" is held in place by a small area on the front trigger. When the front trigger is pulled, this small area disengages from the rear triggers latch and releases it.
When this happens, the spring drives the blade on top of the set trigger into the arm on the sear with a very hard hit.
If the sear was just holding the lock in the full cock position, the impact on the sear arm moves the sear so it releases the hammer or cock.
If the sear is engaged with the half cock notch, the impact of the set trigger's blow will often break off the small nose on the sear or, it will break off part of the half cock notch. Neither of these are good for your gun so remember, if the lock is in the fired position so the sear is not engaged with anything, it is safe to dry fire a set trigger.
If the lock is in the half cock position, NEVER dry fire the gun.
 
Thanks for the clarification, Zonie.
\That's valuable information, that I don't have to learn the hard, and expensive, way
 
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