Zonie gave good instructions. However...
Like my buddy Two Feathers and brother Mark Herman, I recommend a tubing cutter to make the circumferential cut to create the shoulder. You are guaranteed a square cut on an un tapered rod. I guess you could use a lathe to turn down the end to fit, but I just use a pocketknife and a file after cutting the shoulder.
For adhesive, epoxy is a good choice, but hot melt ferrule cement, which is used for attaching arrow points and the ferrules on fishing rods, may be even better, if you know how to use it. Either way, de-grease the inside of the ramrod tip with denatured alcohol or acetone on a Q-tip before gluing. A film of adhesive is better than a thick coat... You don't want glue getting up into the threaded hole.
I also recommend cross-pinning. I drill a slightly undersized hole through the metal tip and the wood, after attaching the tip, then counterbore just the metal to a slip-fit for the pin. The hole through the wooden part remains undersized, to grip the pin. Smear the pin with epoxy and drive it in, allowing some to protrude out both sides. When the epoxy has cured, cut the ends and file them flush. Peening is unnecessary with this method, and I have never seen a pin back out.
That's the way I do it, but there are a lot of ways to skin this particular cat!
Notchy Bob
Like my buddy Two Feathers and brother Mark Herman, I recommend a tubing cutter to make the circumferential cut to create the shoulder. You are guaranteed a square cut on an un tapered rod. I guess you could use a lathe to turn down the end to fit, but I just use a pocketknife and a file after cutting the shoulder.
For adhesive, epoxy is a good choice, but hot melt ferrule cement, which is used for attaching arrow points and the ferrules on fishing rods, may be even better, if you know how to use it. Either way, de-grease the inside of the ramrod tip with denatured alcohol or acetone on a Q-tip before gluing. A film of adhesive is better than a thick coat... You don't want glue getting up into the threaded hole.
I also recommend cross-pinning. I drill a slightly undersized hole through the metal tip and the wood, after attaching the tip, then counterbore just the metal to a slip-fit for the pin. The hole through the wooden part remains undersized, to grip the pin. Smear the pin with epoxy and drive it in, allowing some to protrude out both sides. When the epoxy has cured, cut the ends and file them flush. Peening is unnecessary with this method, and I have never seen a pin back out.
That's the way I do it, but there are a lot of ways to skin this particular cat!
Notchy Bob