Traditions Pennsylvania Flintlock issues.

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I bought a Traditions Pennsylvania Flintlock a few weeks back and took it out for a test drive yesterday. Sparked and flash just several times but boom. Picked it a few times still no boom, well maybe there was some oil in the breech I didn't get out. So I pulled the ball and charge and ran patches until they were totally clean. Loaded it up again flash but no boom. Now I needed to have a look-see, cleaned out the pan took my small flashlight out, you have to be kidding the pan is dividing the vent hole in half. There's probably no way I'll get this gun to fire as is. So the fixes are, to take some material out of the pan so it's lower than the vent or get a new vent liner that's undrilled and drill it off center. don't which I'll do yet.
 
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I bought a Traditions Pennsylvania Flintlock a few weeks back and took it out for a test drive yesterday. Sparked and flash just several times but boom. Picked it a few times still no boom, well maybe there was some oil in the breech I didn't get out. So I pulled the ball and charge and ran patches until they were totally clean. Loaded it up again flash but no boom. Now I needed to have a look-see, cleaned out the pan took my small flashlight out, you have to be kidding the pan is dividing the vent hole in half. There's probably no way I'll get this gun to fire as is. So the fixes are, to take some material out of the pan so it's lower than the vent or get a new vent liner that's undrilled and drill it off center. don't which I'll do yet.
We need more info and a photo. Are you using real black powder?
Larry
 
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Don't know if the photos will help any but here you go.
IMGP1156.JPG
IMGP1159.JPG
 
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Some clear photographs may help folks understand the issue and possibly help. Is this a new or used gun?
Sold as used but I don't think it was used much if at all. There are a few nicks on the barrel where someone used a flint that was too large.
 
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Might as well polish it once I start the grinding process. I'll post up some photos of the process.
Couple of thoughts to consider.
  1. Completely disassemble the lock. It is difficult to get grinding grit and debris out of an assembled lock.
  2. Consider clamping something to the lock so the grinding wheel can’t damage any other surfaces if it happens to get away from you. Surprising how much damage happens in the flash of an oops moment.
 
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Couple of thoughts to consider.
  1. Completely disassemble the lock. It is difficult to get grinding grit and debris out of an assembled lock.
  2. Consider clamping something to the lock so the grinding wheel can’t damage any other surfaces if it happens to get away from you. Surprising how much damage happens in the flash of an oops moment.
Will do, I'll lock the plate in my vise with wooden blocks. Considering the lock will be disassembled I might polish some of the bearing surfaces.
 
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Remove the tang screws then see if hole position changed from a preload.
If it improves shim the tang.
If not grind away or both.
Question? wouldn't I have to remove metal from the upper tang if I shim it? At least if I want a good metal-to-wood fit.
 
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Once you get the vent set like you want it you might put a little 4f (about 3 grains) down the barrel before main charge. That's what I had to do to get constant ignition.
On every shot?
Something is wrong if you have to do that, unless maybe you are using a sub, and in that case I would recommend 10-15 of real black powder before loading the sub. Clear touchhole, .060” to .078” diameter, open path to main charge of fresh blackpowder in barrel, and if the pan powder ignites, the main charge will go boom 99%+ of the time.
 

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