Traditions Kit Modified build

[Phil Coffins]

A buddy bought this kit as he started into this sport. He came to me hoping for help building it so I set him down and explained why he should not open the package but sell it and get a better kit. Well he got it cheap and despite my best efforts felt the learning experience would be good so we started. The farther we went the more he learned and bought a nice rifle and shot it for the summer. He has three rifles in flint and percussion now and has lost all interest in over coming the short coming of the Traditions kit. Silly me, Asked him if I could see what can be done with it. So here we go:
Problem one, Tang is straight but should be curved. A bit of filing then hammering.
IMG_0384 by Oliver Sudden, on Flickr
IMG_0385 by Oliver Sudden, on Flickr

 

[Phil Coffins]

Problem two: lock panels and wrist. After inletting the tang I could reshape the top of the wrist and trim the lock panels.
before
IMG_0383 by Oliver Sudden, on Flickr
after
IMG_0387 by Oliver Sudden, on Flickr

 

[Phil Coffins]

Problem three: comb and lower wrist, Rasp and file after refitting the trigger guard. A bit more refining to be done.
IMG_0388 by Oliver Sudden, on Flickr

 

[Phil Coffins]

I've done some tuning on the lock and to trim the fore arm I reshaped the brass spacer. About 1 1/2 hours on this at this point.
IMG_0386 by Oliver Sudden, on Flickr

 

[railshot]

I am looking forward to seeing how this one comes out for sure Phil Coffins!

 

[Fifty Four]

New guy here. I'm also looking forward to seeing more of this Traditions project. Made an attempt at it last summer. I'm no craftsman(!), but found that an interesting and not-bad-looking-for-what-it-is rifle can be squeezed out of these kits.

 

[smo]

They will Kill!

 

[Phil Coffins]

The fore arm contouring has been extended and the part in front of the entry pipe now has a shallow V shape with the top edge rolled in. I've cut down that massive cast brass nose cap to make a trimer look. The ram rod pipes are moved and inlet so the ram rod will lay flatter in the groove. The cast cap is a very poor casting with pits.
IMG_0389 by Oliver Sudden, on Flickr

 

[Col. Batguano]

It will be really fun to see one of these kits come out well, and put together by someone that knows what they're doing. I look forward to following your progress. It already looks a heap better!

 

[dave_person]

Hi Phil,
You are doing a nice job but let me suggest something. Make the flats around the lock and side plate smaller but not necessarily even. Thin them more on the top and less on the bottom but more overall. Locks off the chance to create an illusion. They have more mass up top because of the cock or hammer. By thinning the molding on top more than on bottom, you create the illusion of better balance. Lock moldings do not need to be even all the way around the lock plate.

dave

 

[Cowboy]

Definitely following your progression with great interest Phil. I definitely know it’ll come out very nice!

Thank you for sharing.

Respectfully, Cowboy

 

[Phil Coffins]

Dave, thanks for your observation. I will trim a bit more but this kit doesn’t allow me to do all I could.
Today all the rough shaping is done now I’m going to add a side plate to replace the washers that came in the kit. My random doddling produced this shape so I inlet it about .045” deep. I’ll chamber the edges later. Next step will be some light shaping then sanding.
49E35F97-03EC-4005-8E46-A662306C3BFB by Oliver Sudden, on Flickr

 

[Phil Coffins]

Some thing else I failed to mention was the trigger bar inlet was about .090” to deep so a piece of wood is added into the stock. This seems common to these kits. At this point the stock is stained and the first coat of tung oil finish is drying. At one point fake curl was considered but after a few attempts on a scrap my shaky hands convinced me lightning bolts didn’t improve the looks. Metal finish will be a rest from wood work for me.

 

[Phil Coffins]

Done, good enough for what it is. Having assembled this kit I can say now with all honesty that it's serviceable. No show piece but can be made presentable. Would I recommend one to others? No. There's better entry level kits out there that are budget priced and wouldn't require as much extra work. Those that like them have different goals then I and I would happy to share a camp fire or shooting match with them. Have fun.
IMG_0390 by Oliver Sudden, on Flickr
IMG_0393 by Oliver Sudden, on Flickr

 

[Phil Coffins]

More photos,
IMG_0391 by Oliver Sudden, on Flickr
IMG_0392 by Oliver Sudden, on Flickr

 

[Ringo]

Been following your progress Phil.
You have proven you can polish the proverbial turd. Well done sir, well done indeed. Can't wait to hear how it shoots.
I think your friend owes you some whiskey.

 

[railshot]

Turned out nice Phil.

 

[Melnic]

Very nice work.
Did you use a wood conditioner before staining? My first ML kit was a Lyman where I applied just Tung oil, so when I built a Traditions pistol, it did not go so well with just Tung and was very splotchy. What brand and color stain did you use?

 

[Phil Coffins]

Thanks guys.
I didn't use a wood conditioner but raised the grain three times. First with water then with weak dyed water and again with weak dyed water sanding with 320 grit each time. The finial dye is a water based dye that I mix from dry powders that I bought for Brownells years ago. When dry I rub the stock firmly with a paper towel. This burnishes the wood and removes surface pigments. A faster drying oil may be better for this type of wood as the tung oil seems to raise the grain a bit again. The top three coats on this project are True Oil cut 50% with mineral oil and a small amount of Jap Dryer added to speed drying time. This was applied very thinly.

 

[Cowboy]

Very nice Phil.

I knew it would be!

Respectfully, Cowboy