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Traditions flitlocks

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While I'm not a fan of that model, I do like the brand as a whole. Traditions doesn't get much respect around here though. I own, and have owned in the past numerous Traditions. Never really had any function/mechanical issues with any of them. They just always seemed to work. Some cosmetic issues from time to time. But you are also not dropping $2k plus on a hand built custom either so some cosmetic flaws are to be expected. If you like it then I say go for it. Just DON'T buy into the marketing nonsense that the model you referenced with reliably ignite Pyrodex. Real black powder only for flintlocks.
 
As a starter gun to get into muzzle loading, or for a kid whom you are not sure will take to the sport,Traditions is an ok choice. For a serious blackpowder shooter, I say go with something nicer.
 
I'm not a fan of Traditions flint locks. These were the locks used as reference for proof of the lack of reliability in flint locks.

They can be made to work, but expect to have to do some, perhaps a lot, of tuning of the lock to get the springs balanced and the flint to strike the frizzen to get sparks. T/C locks and Lyman locks are a bit better with the Lyman lock having a slight edge over the T/C lock. T/C and Lyman locks are based on an Investarms design with subtleties of lock geometry.

The Pyrodex pellets for touted for the PA Pellet rifle have a layer of black powder as the kick starter for igniting the Pyrodex. In theory the kick starter is a good idea. In practice, well let me say that using a measure of 3fg GOEX black powder is far more likely to get ignited by the flash in the pan.

I'm pretty disparaging of Traditions flint locks, but if you have someone in your area that is familiar with flint locks and can provide some guidance, the Traditions PA Pellet can be a reasonable entry level rifle.
 
I would not judge any brand by a single gun.

That said, Traditions is probably the most "economical" brand out there.

That model, defies the definition of "Traditional" IMO.
 
My biggest concern with the rifle you linked is the 1:28 twist barrel.
Because it is rifled to shoot modern projectiles rather than patched lead roundballs, to get the best accuracy you'll end up needing to buy expensive bullets.
The rifling grooves will be quite shallow so they do not grab the cloth patch used with roundballs and rather poor accuracy can be expected if you shoot them.

The TC and Lyman Deerstalker and Trade guns use a slower 1:48 twist with deeper rifling grooves that make them much more suitable for patched roundballs.

When I'm talking about cost, the modern bullets can cost $0.50 to $1.50 each. Lead balls on the other hand cost about $0.15 each. Even less if you cast your own.
 
I have a Traditions Kentucky Rifle in flint. I did a few things to the lock: where the frizzen contacts the spring, I smoothed out the casting seam and rounded it a bit so the frizzen opens with less friction on the spring, and pops open at the right time. Also, there was a wave washer in where the screw passed thru the frizzen's pivot hole, which also added a bit of friction. I replaced it with a plain washer, mainly just to use as a spacer.

With the right size sharp flint, and the right prime, it goes off quite reliably. I use 50gn FFG for close targets, 60-70 for those gongs out to 100+yds, with FFG in the pan as well.
 
I have a Traditions Kentucky Rifle in flint. I did a few things to the lock: where the frizzen contacts the spring, I smoothed out the casting seam and rounded it a bit so the frizzen opens with less friction on the spring, and pops open at the right time. Also, there was a wave washer in where the screw passed thru the frizzen's pivot hole, which also added a bit of friction. I replaced it with a plain washer, mainly just to use as a spacer.

With the right size sharp flint, and the right prime, it goes off quite reliably. I use 50gn FFG for close targets, 60-70 for those gongs out to 100+yds, with FFG in the pan as well.

Thanks for the tips, I have a Traditions Flint pistol incoming and might need the info.
 
Thanks, that helps alot. I specifically wanted a rifle with that twist for sabboted bullets. I also like the idea of Nitride to help with fouling and an aluminum ramrod seems like a no brainer.
Granulated Pyrodex should be fine, right?
 
Granulated Pyrodex should be fine, right?

Nope! not unless you use 10 grains of real black powder down the barrel first. Pyrodex Pellets have a real blackpowder coating on them so the fire easily.
And as always, only real BP in the pan.
 
I have 2 a Tennessee(very light weight easy to carry 24in barrel) and was given a Kentucky kit (bellow) not a lot of spark till I did some refinement , I reshaped the foot of the frizzen and weakened the spring so it opens wider and easier
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with that said my boy took his 1st and 2nd deer with the Tennessee & it took me 2yrs to get it back from him. Not as much spark as my silers but it goes off vary reliably
These have a 1-66 shallow rifling and with the right load shoots good groups with round ball 490+ .018 patch 70-80grns 3f- I would class as entry level flint lock ( I have no experience of the 1-48 barrels)
 
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