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To Shoot or not to Shoot is the ?

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Not sure if this is the correct forum. I picked up an older Danish Jaeger rifle a few weeks ago. Missing patch box lid, .69 caliber with a swamped barrel. I believe it was once a flintlock, later converted to percussion. A little brushing and a few patches it looks pretty darn well. Cap and drum are clear. Popped a few caps on it and moved grass like a new one. I am having a hard time deciding to shoot it. 50-60 grains of Fg is what I'm thinking. What's your opinion?
 

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If I we’re going to shoot that “seasoned” rifle; I’d first check to see how sound the threads are on the nipple down in the drum. Those old mercury caps are corrosive as can be. You wouldn’t want the nipple to jettison backwards towards you after ignition. I couldn’t tell you too much more from an online examination. Use your gut. If there’s any doubt about shooting it, don’t shoot it.
 
Mercury has absolutely nothing to do with corrosive caps. Mercury PRIMERS would weaken brass on unmentionables as it would eat the brass up. Nothing to do with corrosive to steel.

The salt's in the priming is corrosive to steel and the problem but so is the salt's in black powder. Cleaning gets rid of both with a water base cleaning. Ghess!

I do agree to check the nipples and seats threads before firing. They not being rotted out shoot it!
 
Very cool gun.

First, I do not think it was ever a flinter, nothing to show there was ever a frizzen on the lock.

Put a wooden patchbox cover on it, check the bore with a cheap teslong bore scope and SHOOT IT!
 
Lovely old rifle with a history. It does need a lot of TLC after verifying the nipple situation isn't horrid. That rusty bore can still be cleaned up a good bit and the rest of the rifle could use a bit of grooming. And what's that triangle sticking up from the tang area?
 
Lovely old rifle with a history. It does need a lot of TLC after verifying the nipple situation isn't horrid. That rusty bore can still be cleaned up a good bit and the rest of the rifle could use a bit of grooming. And what's that triangle sticking up from the tang area?
That triangle is for an aperture sight I am sure.
 
If it were mine I’d make every effort to shoot it. I’m not a collector, so if I can’t shoot it I’m not interested in having it. With that said, it’s a beautiful piece to my eyes and I hope you can get it shooting if that’s what you want.
 
Are you satisfied just looking at it? If you’re gonna long to shoot it - go ahead. If you are truly indifferent to shooting it just admire it. Any old/used ML comes with some inherent risk when shooting it. Can you afford or justify that risk? Me, I’d have to shoot it.
 
Congratulations. Nice find. Obviously, a high quality rifle. As mentioned, checking the nipple to drum thread integrity is important.
At least from the muzzle, it looks like just light surface rust in the barrel, that will clean up. Assuming no heavy corrosion in the breach end, you should be good to go for shooting. Would be interesting to see how it shoots with the original rifling. And there's that something "extra" you get being able to shoot an original. Beautiful side plate. That missing patch box cover would drive me crazy. LOL
If not yourself, that would be a fairly easy task for an experience builder to make you a new cover from a small piece of European walnut and stained to closely match. Could also be made of horn (?) per your preference. Again, congrats. A very handsome rife.

Rick
 
I shoot primarily originals & my best grouping rifle just happens to be a .70 cal. perc. Danish Jaeger by I.C. Hauggaard in Kiobenhaven, however It's not nearly as ornate as yours. Yours appears to have a similar style rifling & most of Jaegers i've owned of this vintage also have close to one turn in the length of the barrel so consequently they don't require heavy powder charges, mine maintains very tight groups with just 80 grns. of 2F & has brought down some big game with the same load.
IMG_2403.JPG Danish Jaeger.JPGI would like to recommend some advice that I was given first hand about 60 years ago after firing a fine old original rifle 'with it's original nipple'. In my urgency failed to inspect the nipple's base for erosion & like most i've run into since the base hole was way oversized due to erosion. When fired it blew back & launched the hammer along with part of the tumbler's axle into outer space & screwed up what had been a nice quality lock. The hammer could have ended up as a hood ornament in my forehead.
From that point forward I learned to always replace the nipples on any original firearms before firing them.
TIP; Fastest & easiest way to un-stick nipples, breeches & screws on old locks is to soak them overnight in a 50/50 mixture of acetone & auto transmission fluid.
 

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