In 1767 Thomas Page wrote a book, The Art of Shooting Flying. In it he discussed wads for shot loads, and had this to say:
I'm goan give that a try . Thanks .In 1767 Thomas Page wrote a book, The Art of Shooting Flying. In it he discussed wads for shot loads, and had this to say:
"But I cannot yet find any thing better, or so ready as thin brown paper rubbed soft, and cut into pieces about one inch broad and two inches long; so that when it is once doubled, it is an inch square. I punch a small hole at the corner of each piece, put a sufficient quantity upon a key-ring, hang them into my button hole, and tear off one as I want it. This being doubled, put it into to the muzzle, and close the corners up about the rammer (the end of which ought to continue of the same bigness for at least half an inch, or rather somewhat smaller just at the end) and thrust the paper thus put into the barrel gently down upon the powder. Your rammer will come back without danger of drawing the paper back, and will leave it closed against the sides of the barrel like a half cartridge. Put in another in the same manner after the shot."
He was recommending brown paper as the only wad. I tried some shot loads that way and wasn't impressed with the patterns. Later, though, when I was trying out wadding with tow only, I had the impression that pressures and velocities were low, possibly because the tow was letting gasses escape through it. It occurred to me that I could make a barrier with a brown paper wad and then use the same tow overpowder and over shot. I tried that and could easily tell it worked, the gun was shooting harder. When I got into trying bare ball loads using only tow for wadding I used the brown paper over powder again, with the results I showed. I have also done penetration tests with shot loads using brown paper and tow over powder, shot, tow over shot, and had excellent results with tin cans at 25 yards, penetrating both sides with force.
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Here's how I carry the brown paper pieces.
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How they fit into the bore, sort of as a short cartridge;
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There are good primary references to the use of soft paper as wadding from at least two other good writers in the 18th century.
Yup, I found that with two completely different guns - a .62 like yours and a T/C New Englander 12 ga.Everyone knows that you patch a ball to keep it centered in the bore and that a bare ball's just gonna rattle down the bore with lousy accuracy and reduced velocity from gas blow-by as a result ...
Well, that's what I thought when I began shooting .62 cal smoothbore. I also tried overpowder wads, cushion wads, and over-ball wads. I did patches with my usual Tallow/Beeswax, and also my dry Castor Oil patches. All were disappointing.
The best load I finally settled on was powder/tow/ball/tow. Apparently that ball rattling loose and uncentered down the bore didn't know it was supposed to have poor accuracy.
Made this one tonight after you reminded me of Page's quote. 25% cotton paper I had left over from a résumé years ago."But I cannot yet find any thing better, or so ready as thin brown paper rubbed soft, and cut into pieces about one inch broad and two inches long; so that when it is once doubled, it is an inch square. I punch a small hole at the corner of each piece, put a sufficient quantity upon a key-ring, hang them into my button hole, and tear off one as I want it."
I’m curious about the beeswax and oil paste idea. What kind of oil? Do you know how it was made? Sounds like another fun opportunity to melt stuff on the stove and stink out the kitchen....and we all know how much the wife likes thatPatching a ball goes back to the 1840s that we can prove. It’s written about as if common knowledge, so I’m betting it goes back much further.
Jackson’s Kentucky Rifles lost many of their guns in a boating accident, and many were shooting random smoothies. As they had been shooting PRB all their lives I bet patching would come naturally.
I shoot both styles. I have found a patch a little better at fifty yards but not so much Bambi would fret over the difference.
However I hunt with a PRB as,in my head at least, it’s less likely to move off the powder as I tramp in the woods.
Some folks have had great success with moose milk type concoctions as patch or wad lubes. These are modern concoctions. The old timers used an animal fat or oil or sweet oil, ie: olive oil. Plain old lard or a little more expensive mink oil works great on a patch or a wad in a smoothie. A paste of bees wax and oil too works well.
In my personal experience I find greasy llubes easier to work with then wet lubes
Thank you, Sir!Use a double boiler. Melt the wax then add in about 1/3 volume of oil. Let cool. Test: does it rub on the patch easy? Is it too sloppy to carry. You can remedy and adjust. If too loose add more wax, to hard more oil. Usually close to about 50/50 by volume. And an ounce of wax By weight has about the same volume of an once of liquid olive oil.