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Though not on the topic of finish, with that Rupp rifle I'll advise you to get ahold of the KRA disc and study that rifle carefully. Allen Martin's site too. Pay particular attention to the rear of the lock and wrist area, and the double radius under the TG specifically. Most contemporary builders of that gun tend to overdo that feature. The result is a gun that looks somewhat awkward. It's a tricky gun to get "just right".

I've studied that gun extensively. I've concluded that the key to that wrist and belly line is to keep the top line of the wrist high. That gives you the room to get the bottom part right.
Thanks - Yes I have rough cut the stock with the subtle double curve at the wrist and into the comb. That feature was why I selected this design for my first scratch build. So far so good; this project is taking mortising to a whole new level. My guide is a set of full-size plans, purchased from TOW, featuring a rifle built by Michael Hayes. My question for you is - did Rupps always have domed patch boxes? I think I saw somewhere that his son did not use that design....
 
I'm not aware of all of his work so I would suspect he made some guns with domed boxes, and some without, or with wooden PB's. Be careful with that double radius. It's really easy to overdo it, which makes the gun look clumsy. Do your comb and top line of the wrist first, and then the rear of the butt. There is a subtle change in the toe line curve radius getting larger as you move forward toward that wrist. Then cut in your double radius.
 
Good advice - thanks! I am at the point where the lock has been inletted with trigger installation next, so final shaping of the wrist is not far off.
 
The key to the belly line is to closely observe how far back the horizontal carries. Just to about the trigger before it starts arcing downward. I would suggest inletting your trigger plate below the surface of the wood so dpi can shape your wood afterwards. Go ahead and get it close, but save that last 1/32"-1/16" of takeaway until a little later.
 
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